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PSA: No z150 or x150 leather for a while (Vanson)

LaymanX

One of the Regulars
Messages
176
Location
Toronto
According to Carrie, Vanson's leather supplier had a fire so Vanson has to find another source now for those 2, which may take a while. Competition Weight and Bainbridge is still available.
 

jpk_NJ

One Too Many
Messages
1,213
Location
NJ
Maybe a blessing in disguise. The last batch of my preferred vanson hide, Z150 waxy/shiny, was even a bit out of spec/subpar to the folks at Vanson. It was almost indistinguishable from the comp hide apart from thickness, when it usually has a much glossier appearance. Hopefully a new steady quality hide tannery will come to pass.
 

SinSir

A-List Customer
Messages
350
The Z is lighter weight CW.

I will miss the X, lucky to have my Commando in it.

I've decided I prefer Z over X as they break in. Happy to have the shine off a couple of them as they really start to show their differences. Both Zs definitely have more character than my X.

I stumbled on a handful of Daytonas in Z150 the other day at the Ducati dealership. If this one had fit I would have bought it on the spot because of the hide.

I'll miss both. Good hides and different enough from each other.
 
Messages
10,196
I've decided I prefer Z over X as they break in. Happy to have the shine off a couple of them as they really start to show their differences. Both Zs definitely have more character than my X.

I stumbled on a handful of Daytonas in Z150 the other day at the Ducati dealership. If this one had fit I would have bought it on the spot because of the hide.

I'll miss both. Good hides and different enough from each other.

This is why I like this site, I actually prefer the X over the Z. It definitely breaks in and feels different, more like CXL. If I wanted a Z-type look and break-in, I would get the CW and be done with it.
 

SinSir

A-List Customer
Messages
350
This is why I like this site, I actually prefer the X over the Z. It definitely breaks in and feels different, more like CXL. If I wanted a Z-type look and break-in, I would get the CW and be done with it.

Great place around here for sure!

My X is soo smooth. Not much grain character is coming out, but it is changing. I like it a lot but in a differnet way. My Z reminds me of CXL steer, lol! One thing I like about both of them is they are more wearable than CW but still carry the weight of trust in Vanson in my mind and feel. I honestly wouldn't hesitate to pick up another older CW if the right one comes along. All the new stuff I find that I like in person is X or Z these days.

Either way I can't wait to see the new hides when they find a tannery.
 

El Marro

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,474
Location
California
My X is soo smooth. Not much grain character is coming out, but it is changing. I like it a lot but in a differnet way.
My X150 Commando is still pretty smooth but where the grain is beginning to pop (around the elbows for instance) it has that perfect rippled marbling that makes me think it is just going to get better and better!
 

jpk_NJ

One Too Many
Messages
1,213
Location
NJ
I've decided I prefer Z over X as they break in. Happy to have the shine off a couple of them as they really start to show their differences. Both Zs definitely have more character than my X.

I stumbled on a handful of Daytonas in Z150 the other day at the Ducati dealership. If this one had fit I would have bought it on the spot because of the hide.

I'll miss both. Good hides and different enough from each other.

Agree with this 100%. I've handled more than my share of Vansons, and different batches of X / Z etc. Of course any individual batch of Vanson can vary drastically, moreso than any other maker I know. IMO, the X appears "better" when brand new but then kind of dulls out as the hot stuffed wax wears down with breaking. Whereas, a proper Z hide seams boringly even/flat/shiny when brand new, but then character shows when you start creasing and abusing it. Similar to Cxl. A cordovan or dark brown Z150 could be interesting if we're petitioning for wish lists.

My pick for riding is the Comp weight,even new hides, as it can shrug off the random day to day scratches and nicks that might mare a waxy cxl type hide. Casual wear I vote broken in Z150
 
Messages
10,196
I’m confused as to how Z can be similar in break in to CXL while CW does not break in like CXL. Z is CW. Vanson states this on their webpage. Same leather, just lighter/thinner. What am I missing? X behaves totally differently, more like CXL imo. Waxy, stiff until it “warms up with wear”, scratches, exaggerated creases, etc.

You know, I have noticed that collaborative jackets can be incorrectly advertised on non-Vanson websites. Good example is Left Field NYC. They describe X as CW. I called Vanson to be sure (I believe @Carlos840 did same) and was told that the X used to make the Commando is not CW, and if I wanted a lighter CW to go Z. If one prefers CW, then Z is the winner. I prefer the X to the more recent CW/Z. Now old school CW is another thing entirely.
 

SinSir

A-List Customer
Messages
350
I dunno, only what I have to put to the eye and feel test.

I have 2 Z and they both remind me of steer CXl, not scratches but the grain and creases. One is a collab and the other isn't. An Aero steer CXL I had the first thought was its a heavier stiffer Z in grain and crease.

My X, non collab, has yet do anything interesting. I beat it and wear it to hell and back trying to get it to bring out more character and be more wearable. Its very flexible, wearable, and creasing now but not much in the grain department.

My X is thicker and feels denser than the Z but both weigh about the same. I'm a big fan of them both but for differemt reasons.
 

Carlos840

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,920
Location
London
I’m confused as to how Z can be similar in break in to CXL while CW does not break in like CXL. Z is CW. Vanson states this on their webpage. Same leather, just lighter/thinner. What am I missing? X behaves totally differently, more like CXL imo. Waxy, stiff until it “warms up with wear”, scratches, exaggerated creases, etc.

You know, I have noticed that collaborative jackets can be incorrectly advertised on non-Vanson websites. Good example is Left Field NYC. They describe X as CW. I called Vanson to be sure (I believe @Carlos840 did same) and was told that the X used to make the Commando is not CW, and if I wanted a lighter CW to go Z. If one prefers CW, then Z is the winner. I prefer the X to the more recent CW/Z. Now old school CW is another thing entirely.

When i reviewd my Commando i described the X as "it's a bit like a hybrid between CXL and Comp Weight to me".

This is what i was told by Kim when i asked her about my Commando:

"I just researched the coat, it was made from X150. Which is not so different than the competition weight.
They are made at the same tannery these days.

More wax applied on the x150, it makes it heavier as a result."

Maybe i am just reaching to conclusions but i would not be surprised if X, Z and CW started out as the same hides.
CW is full thickness, Z is thinner version of CW, X is hot stuffed version of Z.
IMO it makes sens.

I don't think grain factors in which hides go were, as i have seen each leather in either completely smooth or super grainy versions, to me the difference between options is in the thickness and waxiness, not the grain.

Comparing the pictures of you GFs Z150 in this thread:

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/vanson-z150-vs-x150.99519/

With the pictures of my X150 in this thread:

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/vanson-x-left-field-commando.98275/

I am seeing the same grain structure/characteristic in both hides, to me the extra wax finish is where the difference is at.
So maybe in some situations they can all end up looking similar after break in since they all start from the same raw material?
 
Last edited:

SinSir

A-List Customer
Messages
350
When i reviewd my Commando i described the X as "it's a bit like a hybrid between CXL and Comp Weight to me".

Maybe i am just reaching to conclusions but i would not be surprised if X, Z and CW started out as the same hides.
CW is full thickness, Z is thinner version of CW, X is hot stuffed version of Z.
IMO it makes sens.

So maybe in some situations they can all end up looking similar after break in since they all start from the same raw material?

I lean to agreeing with you.

X very well might be more like a hybrid of the two. I am finally starting to make some progress in breaking down the wax stuffed so heavily in my X. Just the other night I was looking at some places on my jacket in a funny artificial light, and I could see what I'd call evidence of this. Some places had a steel blue like hue to them. I tried to capture it to post but it didn't work out. It was first for me and looked cool for sure. The jacket is without a doubt changing. It was very shiney, stiff, and smooth, now not really any of those things. Creased, dulling, and so foldable and bendable its funny to remember what it used to be like.

It also wouldn't surprise me they all started life as the same hide. If this is true are we about to see a shortage or change to a different CW too?
 

SinSir

A-List Customer
Messages
350
I'm really starting to make progress on the X150. I wear the hell out of it lately. If its crappy out its the jacket I grab. It was VERY smooth, waxy, stiff, and shiny not long ago. Here's a good shot of what its starting to look like throughout the jacket. Its really is a different jacket these days.

Screenshot_20200321-122147_Gallery.jpg
 

SinSir

A-List Customer
Messages
350
Wow..this thread turned into X150 gold!

Great looking jackets guys. It realy shows off the potential of X150. I'm on my phone now but looking forward to checking out the pics on the laptop.
 

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