Help me design a cafe racer

[MadCat]

Hey

Been a minute. Need your help in designing and sizing a cafe racer style jacket. I don’t ride so it won’t need a full action back but I do want some moblity and a clean looking back. Maybe just go with higher arm holes? For reference I am 5’11, 200lb, muscular build.

Here’s what I got so far:

Custom from Johnson Leathers

-start with their n200 pattern
-delete bottom kidney panel
-add western style yoke
-use their phantom black horse
-buco style collar
-sleeve zips on top side
-delete hand warmers

Custom from Vanson

-start with their model b or oxford pattern not sure if it matters
-comp or mid weight not sure yet
-delete back center seam
-delete side buckles
-delete hand warmers
-delete windflap
-delete zip out liner stuff
-sleeve zips on top side
-add western style yoke
-buco style collar

Thoughts?

 

[El Marro]

Buy a Vanson Comet PLU-3 from Thurston Brothers. Aside from the western yoke it has almost everything you are looking for and it is as good as a pattern can get.

 

[MadCat]

Buy a Vanson Comet PLU-3 from Thurston Brothers. Aside from the western yoke it has almost everything you are looking for and it is as good as a pattern can get.

Thanks but i’ll deal with the manufacturer directly. Already in contact.

 

[El Marro]

Then buy it from them

 

[MadCat]

Then buy it from them

That’s the plan.

 

[El Marro]

Yes, I should’ve been more specific: buy the Comet PLU-3 from Vanson directly. You could not do better playing designer yourself, in fact, you could only do worse.

 

[MadCat]

Yes, I should’ve been more specific: buy the Comet PLU-3 from Vanson directly. You could not do better playing designer yourself, in fact, you could only do worse.

Yes, with a few tweaks as mentioned might be an option.

 

[El Marro]

It would be a great place to start, and I’m just giving you a hard time. Designing a jacket like that can be a lot of fun and I am a big fan of western yokes as well.

 

[MadCat]

It would be a great place to start, and I’m just giving you a hard time. Designing a jacket like that can be a lot of fun and I am a big fan of western yokes as well.

It’s all good. I’m even thinking of going with a custom Japanese maker, but I’m afraid mistakes will be made with language barriers, etc..

 

[El Marro]

It’s all good. I’m even thinking of going with a custom Japanese maker, but I’m afraid mistakes will be made with language barriers, etc..

I would be hesitant as well, especially considering your build. The nice thing about a company like Vanson is that they make jackets that fit and move well.
And when it comes to custom, you can’t go wrong with Johnson leathers either.

 

[MadCat]

I would be hesitant as well, especially considering your build. The nice thing about a company like Vanson is that they make jackets that fit and move well.
And when it comes to custom, you can’t go wrong with Johnson leathers either.

I had 2 made already by Johnson. Great quality. I really want a Vanson though.

 

[Bawheid]

Schott 641HH. https://www.schottnyc.com/products/classic-schott-racer-jacket.htm?catID=

Simmons Bilt J100 https://simmonsbilt.com/products/j100

Job done. I have one each of these, bought new "off the rack" in 44".

Schott 641HH Horsehide is more "substantial", Simmons Bilt J100 in Goat better in the summer months

Just trying to save you HOURS of deliberation and angst.

AND you will get it right away compered to any custom order.

PS I also have a Vanson Comet in Firenze leather, 44 again bought new "off the rack" but it's SHORT and summer only and low on pocket storage.

https://www.vansonleathers.com/trad...HebzaPl0PzD2CD1KfRLqdZwRP0b6qSm7-5yinAoaQF0o4

 

[MadCat]

Schott 641HH. https://www.schottnyc.com/products/classic-schott-racer-jacket.htm?catID=

Simmons Bilt J100 https://simmonsbilt.com/products/j100

Job done. I have one each of these, bought new "off the rack" in 44".

Schott 641HH is more "substantial", Simmons Bilt J100 better in the summer months

Just trying to save you HOURS of deliberation and angst.

AND you will get it right away compered to any custom order.

Not interested, but thank you

 

[Bawheid]

Be sooo careful of custom order jacket "tweaks" from any maker.

Firstly NO CHANCE of return if it don't fit

Secondly, over the years the lounge classifieds have been well peppered with new and near new "custom built" jackets. I have seen the same jacket(s) change hands MULTIPLE times thru' the classifieds.

So much so that I have been wary of any "custom tweaked" jacket that I could not try on.
(VERY) difficult from Western Australia haha...

I bought a lovely Aero Highwayman from ebay Australia quite a few years back, of course "custom tweaked" when it got here to Western Australia from the east, short body and arms and WIDE, made I suspect for a short tubby dude.
Thankfully I sold that on local Gumtree classifieds for my money back, to a shorter tubby dude !
Fitted him well WHEW !
That was a lucky escape and a lesson learned...

 

[MadCat]

Be sooo careful of custom order jacket "tweaks" from any maker.

Firstly NO CHANCE of return if it don't fit

Secondly, over the years the lounge classifieds have been well peppered with new and near new "custom built" jackets. I have seen the same jacket(s) change hands MULTIPLE times thru' the classifieds.

So much so that I have been wary of any "custom tweaked" jacket that I could not try on.
(VERY) difficult from Western Australia haha...

I bought a lovely Aero Highwayman from ebay Australia quite a few years back, of course "custom tweaked" when it got here to Western Australia from the east, short body and arms and WIDE, made I suspect for a short tubby dude.
Thankfully I sold that on local Gumtree classifieds for my money back, to a shorter tubby dude !
Fitted him well WHEW !
That was a lucky escape and a lesson learned...

Thanks

This will be my fourth MTO jacket. I’ve learned a lot along the way.

 

[Bawheid]

My only personal experience of "MTO" was when I took an OTR jacket in heavy horsehide to a local leather worker and had him copy it 100% in black goat. The jacket I took in fit me perfect, off the rack in 44"

Great result as I was measured by him AND he had the original (but older) jacket to copy. All within a 15 K's drive of home.

This was to make a more summer oriented motorcycle riding jacket and it was 25 years ago.

 

[Cortexas]

Hey

Been a minute. Need your help in designing and sizing a cafe racer style jacket. I don’t ride so it won’t need a full action back but I do want some moblity and a clean looking back. Maybe just go with higher arm holes? For reference I am 5’11, 200lb, muscular build.

Here’s what I got so far:

Custom from Johnson Leathers

-start with their n200 pattern
-delete bottom kidney panel
-add western style yoke
-use their phantom black horse
-buco style collar
-sleeve zips on top side
-delete hand warmers

Custom from Vanson

-start with their model b or oxford pattern not sure if it matters
-comp or mid weight not sure yet
-delete back center seam
-delete side buckles
-delete hand warmers
-delete windflap
-delete zip out liner stuff
-sleeve zips on top side
-add western style yoke
-buco style collar

Thoughts?

I just had a custom model B made very similar to this. I deleted the back center seam, the side buckles, wind flap, zip out liner and had a Buco style collar. I went through Thurston and had it made with the Olympia hide. It’s an incredible jacket. Super comfortable and beautiful looking jacket.

 

[MadCat]

I just had a custom model B made very similar to this. I deleted the back center seam, the side buckles, wind flap, zip out liner and had a Buco style collar. I went through Thurston and had it made with the Olympia hide. It’s an incredible jacket. Super comfortable and beautiful looking jacket.

Neat! Do you have pictures?

 

[Unrefined Vision]

I just had a custom model B made very similar to this. I deleted the back center seam, the side buckles, wind flap, zip out liner and had a Buco style collar. I went through Thurston and had it made with the Olympia hide. It’s an incredible jacket. Super comfortable and beautiful looking jacket.

Just had a model B made as in just placed the order or you already received it? Either way sounds like a winner and it would be great to see some pictures if/when that might be possible! Also, I'm not familiar with the olympia hide and couldn't see anything on the Thurston bros page. Would you mind sharing the general specification in terms of cow/horse etc. and maybe colors in which it is offered?

-Cheers

 

[Cortexas]

Neat! Do you have pictures?