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Does this vintage blazer fit?

Sirkrimzon

Familiar Face
Messages
54
I picked up this vintage made in Canada tweed sport coat from eBay and overall I’m happy with the fit however, I wanted your guys opinions, particularly on the sleeve length. I was under the impression that the sleeve should end right above the crook of the wrist which this jacket seems to have,
However, as this is my first for tailoring, I wanted to make sure. I think the shoulders fit well as well as the chest. Please let me know any thoughts or critiques thank you. Kindly please disregard the remainder of my outfit and my apartment.
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jchance

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,203
Location
LA
Sleeve length is fine. The back length is slightly short, like 1-2cm. I actually thought the shoulder is a bit wide, but if you say it fits, then it fits.

If you wear a long-sleeve button-down shirt underneath, the shirt’s cuffs should be peaking out the jacket’s sleeve, like 1/4-1/2 inch. That’s the perfect sleeve length.
 
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Sirkrimzon

Familiar Face
Messages
54
Sleeve length is fine. The back length is slightly short, like 1-2cm. I actually thought the shoulder is a bit wide, but if you say it fits, then it fits.

If you wear a long-sleeve button-down shirt underneath, the shirt’s cuffs should be peaking out the jacket’s sleeve, like 1/3-1/2 inch. That’s the perfect sleeve length.
Thank you very much. Where is a shirt cuff supposed to hit exactly on your hand or wrist? I like this jacket, but the only annoying thing is the buttons on the patch pockets are not functional. They are stitched to the flap. I may take them to the tailor and have them make them a functional patch pocket with a button closure
 

jchance

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,203
Location
LA
Thank you very much. Where is a shirt cuff supposed to hit exactly on your hand or wrist? I like this jacket, but the only annoying thing is the buttons on the patch pockets are not functional. They are stitched to the flap. I may take them to the tailor and have them make them a functional patch pocket with a button closure

A shirt that fits should not have oversized sleeve length that bundled up near your wrist/hand. Whatever shirt you have and wear in your closet, the shirt’s cuffs should peak out 1/4-1/2 inch. It’s how the jacket’s sleeve length fits RELATIVE TO the shirt worn, not an exact way the shirt’s sleeve length is supposed to hit, whether it be your wrist or your hand. That’s why your fit pics should have been worn with a long sleeve shirt, as how you’d style and wear your blazer outside.

Below is an example of a Ralph Lauren suit on Neiman Marcus website:
IMG_9717.jpeg
 
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Sirkrimzon

Familiar Face
Messages
54
A shirt that fits should not have oversized sleeve length that bundled up near your wrist/hand. Whatever shirt you have and wear in your closet, the shirt’s cuffs should peak out 1/3-1/2 inch. It’s how the jacket’s sleeve length fits RELATIVE TO the shirt worn, not an exact way the shirt’s sleeve length is supposed to hit, whether it be your wrist or your hand. That’s why your fit pics should have been worn with a long sleeve shirt, as how you’d style and wear your blazer outside.

Below is an example of a Ralph Lauren suit on Neiman Marcus website:
View attachment 721186
Thank you. I will have to try it on with the shirt. And when you say the back length is long, do you mean the back of the jacket?
 

Peacoat

Bartender
Messages
7,074
Location
South of Nashville
A shirt that fits should not have oversized sleeve length that bundled up near your wrist/hand. Whatever shirt you have and wear in your closet, the shirt’s cuffs should peak out 1/3-1/2 inch. It’s how the jacket’s sleeve length fits RELATIVE TO the shirt worn, not an exact way the shirt’s sleeve length is supposed to hit, whether it be your wrist or your hand. That’s why your fit pics should have been worn with a long sleeve shirt, as how you’d style and wear your blazer outside.

Below is an example of a Ralph Lauren suit on Neiman Marcus website:
View attachment 721186
Waayy too much right sleeve showing. I like 1/4" showing.
 

jchance

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,203
Location
LA
Thank you. I will have to try it on with the shirt. And when you say the back length is long, do you mean the back of the jacket?

Back length is the standard term to measure a jacket’s length from the bottom of the neck. A blazer’s length is the same throughout so it’s the easiest place to get a standard measurement of the jacket’s length.

As you can see, how much of the shirt’s cuff should be shown differs depending on the viewers. I’m used to the 1/2 inch cuff shown because I wear OTR 38S blazer and 15/33 shirt and that’s how much cuff is shown on my ensemble. It’s within the acceptable range and I usually look at models from Ralph Lauren or Kiton to see what proper suiting is supposed to look like.
 

Peacoat

Bartender
Messages
7,074
Location
South of Nashville
Years ago I determined that a sleeve of 35" in a 100% cotton Brooks Brothers dress shirt gave me the proper length after I had washed and dried it 2 to 3 times at home (to allow for a small amount of shrinkage). I would then send them to the laundry to have them washed and properly starched and ironed.

Next, I took my suit jackets and sport coats to the tailor to have them alter the sleeves so they were all the exact same length as fitted to the dress shirts..

Thereafter, when I got a new suit or sport coat, I took one of the properly fitted dress shirts with me so that the jacket sleeves would be tailored to match my shirts. That solved the problem of various (and improper) shirt sleeve lengths showing beneath the jacket sleeves. It may sound complicated, but it really isn't.

Now I have my jackets and shirts fitted the same with the proper amount of sleeve showing in all of my jackets, whether suit jacket or blazer.
 

Aloysius

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,670
OP, you need to post a picture with a long-sleeved collared shirt on, even if the shirt is too long.

There's actually a measure to determine what your suit/jacket sleeve length should be based on measuring from the thumb bone, which proved helpful for me at a fitting with Dario Carnera who used that because my RTW shirt sleeve length was wrong.
 

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