Pean to Lee denim and modern repros

[Pandemic]

They both look fabulous.

The denim one appears a bit shorter in that picture because of the contrasting colour but both fit as they should. I’m only 5’ 7” so the short cropped jackets don’t seem all that short on me, you appear to be much taller so the effect is greater.

Thanks! I wanted the short and boxy look of the Lee, but still something to get used to after years of overly long jackets.

In the day the 101 J was sold in Regular and Long, to account for height differences (I think the sleeves remained the same length?). I don’t think the Westerner was ever available in different lengths.

The size tags on the 220s always fade to invisible, so I’m glad I didn’t accidentally get a short or long!

Pretty sure it’s a Japanese repro. They sold tons of them in Asia and the large majority of Westerners for sale in any kind of decent shape are from then or more recent runs. You can always tell by the washing label on the inside of the torso, even if you can’t read it, as the originals had none.

I’ll have a look for the tag when I get home, but I figured this was from recent decades. Do you know anything more about the repros? Were they made in Japan and sold by Lee for that market only? This probably pre-dated the explosion in repro makers like Real McCoy’s, I assume.

I’ll get some better pics with high waisted chinos tomorrow. My only complaint with this seller was he washed them both with some really strong smelling detergent. It’s nice knowing they are clean, but I’m going to have to soak them or put them in on a rinse cycle just to get the smell out!

 

[One Drop]

I’ll have a look for the tag when I get home, but I figured this was from recent decades. Do you know anything more about the repros? Were they made in Japan and sold by Lee for that market only? This probably pre-dated the explosion in repro makers like Real McCoy’s, I assume.

From what I can glean there's a company called Lee Japan Co Ltd, I don't know what their exact relation is to the US brand, owned by Kontoor. Edwin, who of was the pioneer in Japanese denim, might have the rights to manufacture the Lee brand in Japan, and distribute Lee products there - perhaps someone with better knowledge than mine can chime in?

My '90s Westerners' labels have both Lee and Edwin indicated I have two, a cream repro and a Khaki green one that has completely faded to beige Khaki, and that has become incredibly soft and comfortable. There are still plenty of these available used in the original green.

The Lee Japan stuff looks like it was all sold in Japan and maybe from there to other Asian countries, most of the Archives stuff seems to be made from the '90s onwards. Everything I've handled has been impeccably made with high quality materials.

 

[Pandemic]

Someone on Reddit just picked this up for a steal on Vinted:

 

[Pandemic]

What do you guys think of the Red Tornado copy of the Storm Rider?

https://ebay.us/m/nhrSjc

 

[Pandemic]

^
Still trying to find more info on this one. The sizing looks close to the originals and everything else looks good. The lining is only 50% wool and the denim is a heavy 18oz RHT that is rather hairy- unlike the original

 

[Pandemic]

Yes, I am diving deep down that Lee rabbit hole

Thoughts on these reissues? The measurements look off (extra long body and narrow sleeves), but the material looks vintage

 

[One Drop]

Yes, I am diving deep down that Lee rabbit hole

Thoughts on these reissues? The measurements look off (extra long body and narrow sleeves), but the material looks vintage

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That's one of the fairly recent European Lee 101 versions, there was also a longish 101 J, IIRC, and a '50s 101 J in the correct vintage length, but I think it had a RH twill. Currently there's a 101-LJ Rider which in LH twill but it's long.

The only short European Lee 101 jacket I know of is the '50s 101J one that they describe as shorter and boxier,

 

[Pandemic]

That's one of the fairly recent European Lee 101 versions, there was also a longish 101 J, IIRC, and a '50s 101 J in the correct vintage length, but I think it had a RH twill. Currently there's a 101-LJ Rider which in LH twill but it's long.

Thanks! This one is 25” on a Medium, so definitely a bit too long. But the LHT denim looks pure vintage. Alternatively the RT above has copied the 60s fit, but they are using an 18oz RHT much like the IH jackets.

 

[Pandemic]

How much did the (longish) Made In Italy jackets like this sell for new?

 

[One Drop]

How much did the (longish) Made In Italy jackets like this sell for new?

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I think they went for around $300 or a bit more.

My Storm Rider arrived yesterday, it's very cool, a keeper. I'll put my '80s one with pockets up for sale, it's also very nice but I prefer the wool / cotton lining to the synthetic one, and the denim is more flexible and comfortable than the later one.

 

[Pandemic]

@One Drop can’t wait to see your pics of the new jacket! And I really appreciate you answering all my questions here.

Next one: Is the pattern on the Storm Rider and 101J the same? It seems the SR is a little bit longer and less tapered at the waist, when I look at vintage models.

 

[One Drop]

@One Drop can’t wait to see your pics of the new jacket! And I really appreciate you answering all my questions here.

Next one: Is the pattern on the Storm Rider and 101J the same? It seems the SR is a little bit longer and less tapered at the waist, when I look at vintage models.

They seem to fit identically when worn, the lining takes up a bit of room and per stated size they fit the same in the sleeves, shoulders, chest and waist. I’ll compare them more carefully and take a few pictures a little later today.

 

[Pandemic]

I was also looking at the size charts for the Archive-Edwin Storm Rider jackets, which seem a bit more generous than the 101Js

 

[One Drop]

I was also looking at the size charts for the Archive-Edwin Storm Rider jackets, which seem a bit more generous than the 101Js

View attachment 728487

Yes, I noticed that, after calculating shrinkage they seem a little larger, which would actually suit me better than the 40R, which is just a tad too tight o the torso for me when fully buttoned.

I checked the vintage Storm Rider vs the 101-J for fit and measurements, they fit exactly the same in all directions, and feel very similar worn. The '80s 101-LJ I have, I realized, only feels more substantial because the lining seems to have a backing of some sort, and is thus a bit thicker overall. The older one, seen below, seems to have a more fitted lining on the arms, rather than to be cut very loose as in the sleeve, following the countours of the denim (actually, upon thought, it's probably the lining shrunk a bit when washed hot, as the white Alaskan lining info label / washing directions has faded to nearly unreadable. I'm guessing the jacket was washed hot one time, as the denim is close to raw / unfaded in colour, and just needs a light ironing.

I still can't believe the price I paid for this one, they gor for well over $500 in more worn condition.

Please excuse the lousy pictures :

 

[Facini]

Just picked this one up locally for a pretty fair price. No “mr” on this one so probably early to mid 60s!

 

[One Drop]

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Just picked this one up locally for a pretty fair price. No “mr” on this one so probably early to mid 60s!

Nice one! Yes, probably mid 60s, looks like it's in great condition! The M.R didn't show up until 1970, and the pocket Lee label only got the R in a circle mid sixties.

 

[Pandemic]

I bought a Made in Italy reissue and I’m returning it - the Medium is far too long and tubular. The denim is spectacular, so I am a little bummed to be sending it back.

I’m going to put in an offer on one of these. I may even get both a chose the best fitting one to keep.

 

[One Drop]

I bought a Made in Italy reissue and I’m returning it - the Medium is far too long and tubular. The denim is spectacular, so I am a little bummed to be sending it back.

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I’m going to put in an offer on one of these. I may even get both a chose the best fitting one to keep.

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They really blew it with that long one, IMO. I have a few pair of the jeans in that denim, it is superb.

The only problem with those later vintage ones is the synthetic lining, it wears pretty quickly, and rather than just thinning out like the wool blend ones, it kind of shears and bunches, wearing very uneavenly.

 

[Facini]

They really needed to stay with the good old “if it ain’t broke” principle. Trouble is, they thought that it wouldn’t work in a modern style, so they “modernized” it - and ruined it. Levis and others are guilty of the same thing, yet the 101-J and stormrider in particular seem to be completely ruined by this lengthening.

 

[Pandemic]

They really blew it with that long one, IMO. I have a few pair of the jeans in that denim, it is superb.

The denim really is supurb! I seriously considered hunting for a size Small or trying to alter this one. Because my odds of finding a 60s vintage 40L in near new condition aren’t great. And I still question the size tables on the Edwin archive version (which I couldn’t import to the US right now, anyway)

The only problem with those later vintage ones is the synthetic lining, it wears pretty quickly, and rather than just thinning out like the wool blend ones, it kind of shears and bunches, wearing very uneavenly.

That’s a shame - both 70s era, right? Well, it will at least scratch my Storm Rider itch while I continue to hunt for something older. The denim still looks good though.

If If I do but both, you’ll probably see one of them in the B&S listing here before long!