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Help identify a vintage German leather overcoat 1930s–40s?

pikky

New in Town
Messages
4
Hi everyone
I'm new in this forum, I picked up this vintage German leather overcoat and I’d love to get your opinions on its age and background. Labels are Schreiber & Sundermann, Nürnberg (Am Weissen Turm) and Hafa Lederbekleidung, It also has sturdy metal fittings/closures marked GUTUS Patent Gutscher & Hock K.G. Pforzheim. Very heavy, great quality, and in excellent condition for its age. Do you think this looks late 1930s–40s or postwar, and do you know more about these labels?
Thanks in advance
 

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raf

One of the Regulars
Messages
238
"am Weissen Turm" means "at White Tower": https://context.reverso.net/translation/german-english/Weissen+Turm Possibly a trademark kind of appellation.

Rest of terms on the tags may be translatable.

How is the front of the coat secured? Pix, please. Also pix of buttons, please. Faux leather-wrapped buttons, or the real deal? How are the buttons attached? Leather stems or steel stems?

Germans typically had the hem of these coats on the "longer" side, and this is consonant with typical German tailoring.

Any signs of stitching on the epaulettes, or signs that rank insignia were attached, such as puncture marks?

NOT at all an "Expert", but I would "think" that "top-tier" coats of this type might have had some silk or other slippery material added at least into the arms/upper body of the coat to assist in donning/doffing over woolen garments. I could easily be wrong.
 
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pikky

New in Town
Messages
4
"am Weissen Turm" means "at White Tower": https://context.reverso.net/translation/german-english/Weissen+Turm Possibly a trademark kind of appellation.

Rest of terms on the tags may be translatable.

How is the front of the coat secured? Pix, please. Also pix of buttons, please. Faux leather-wrapped buttons, or the real deal? How are the buttons attached? Leather stems or steel stems?

Germans typically had the hem of these coats on the "longer" side, and this is consonant with typical German tailoring.

Any signs of stitching on the epaulettes, or signs that rank insignia were attached, such as puncture marks?

NOT at all an "Expert", but I would "think" that "top-tier" coats of this type might have had some silk or other slippery material added at least into the arms/upper body of the coat to assist in donning/doffing over woolen garments. I could easily be wrong.
Thank you for your reply. Regarding the label, I was able to find that it was in the center of Nuremberg, right next to the White Tower, as it says there, and I saw that the store was a few meters from the NSDAP headquarters.
There doesn't seem to be anything to attach a rank insignia to the coat, and there appear to be three different buttons. I can't take any photos of how they are attached right now, but I hope this helps.
 

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Zoltan

Familiar Face
Messages
65
Location
Berkshire, Uk
Difficult to give a age, looks custom made. Pilots and high ranking officers used to have them made to order.
My dad had few coast made back in late/early 50', ****** pocket on the left was slightly larger pocket to accommodate his revolver and was leather lined. The back had a high split in the middle, and each half could be strapped to the thigh when riding a motorbike.
Was pig skin.

The officers coat had two rows of buttons and removable shoulder boards, also two inner straps to secure the coat around the chest and waist. Have a look at historical photographs
Few examples:
https://original-militaria.com/en/producto/luftwaffe-officer-leather-greatcoat/

https://www.militariazone.com/ww2-jackets-coats/ww2-german-leather-officer-s-coat/itm89033

https://www.bridgemanimages.com/en/...hoto/black-and-white-photograph/asset/2977432
 

pikky

New in Town
Messages
4
Difficult to give a age, looks custom made. Pilots and high ranking officers used to have them made to order.
My dad had few coast made back in late/early 50', ****** pocket on the left was slightly larger pocket to accommodate his revolver and was leather lined. The back had a high split in the middle, and each half could be strapped to the thigh when riding a motorbike.
Was pig skin.

The officers coat had two rows of buttons and removable shoulder boards, also two inner straps to secure the coat around the chest and waist. Have a look at historical photographs
Few examples:
https://original-militaria.com/en/producto/luftwaffe-officer-leather-greatcoat/

https://www.militariazone.com/ww2-jackets-coats/ww2-german-leather-officer-s-coat/itm89033

https://www.bridgemanimages.com/en/...hoto/black-and-white-photograph/asset/2977432
Thank you very much for the references Zoltan. You mentioned that it seems to be tailor-made. I'll leave them here to see what you think. I think they are medium-large size for that period:
Shoulders: 50 cm.
Sleeves: 66 cm.
Back length: 130 cm.
I've been looking at the photos in the links, and from what I can see, this coat was not for military use, but if you had to choose, do you think it's more likely that a civilian or an officer would have bought it for private use? Assuming it's from the 1930s-1940s of course.
 

Zoltan

Familiar Face
Messages
65
Location
Berkshire, Uk
Schreiber & Sundermann is a shop (see label) since 1914, drop them an email. They may still have records?

https://www.schreiber-sundermann.de/ueber-uns.html

I have seen a similar leather coat from HAFA, the size and name brad were stenciled in similar to the way military equipment was in the 60' for example on Swiss uniforms.

I would expect on a military coat to have some holes for badges/insignia/rank. Also yours looks like is in good condition. A military kit regardless of the rank would have had sign of use.
 

pikky

New in Town
Messages
4
Schreiber & Sundermann is a shop (see label) since 1914, drop them an email. They may still have records?

https://www.schreiber-sundermann.de/ueber-uns.html

I have seen a similar leather coat from HAFA, the size and name brad were stenciled in similar to the way military equipment was in the 60' for example on Swiss uniforms.

I would expect on a military coat to have some holes for badges/insignia/rank. Also yours looks like is in good condition. A military kit regardless of the rank would have had sign of use.
That's right, the lack of insignia marks and the very good condition. It does seem more likely to have been civilian or private purchase.
One more question out of curiosity: are coats like this usually of much collector interest today, or are they valued more as vintage fashion? I’ve seen some similar pieces online but prices vary a lot
 

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