Five Star Irvin Jacket vs AVI Leather Irvin Jacket — which would you choose and why?

[Rick Dalton]

Hi everyone,

I don’t think there’s been a thread directly comparing these two jackets yet, even though both seem to be quite popular among Fedora Lounge members.

I’m currently trying to decide between the Five Star Irvin Jacket and the AVI Leather Irvin Jacket. From what I understand, both are made in Pakistan.

• Which one would you choose — Five Star or AVI — and why?
• Has anyone had the chance to see both in person?
• What are the main differences in terms of build quality, materials, and finish?
• Which one offers better customization options (leather type, colors, details, etc.)?

I’d really appreciate any feedback, photos, or hands-on impressions — especially from anyone who’s owned or compared both.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Guppy]

It's "Irvin" not "Irving".

 

[raf]

They're both going to be of sheepskin leather, which can be more fragile than most other leathers typically used in flight jackets, so I suggest giving some consideration to the amount/number of seam reinforcements and the type of leather used in making the reinforcements; most makers using goatskin reinforcements, IIRC. I'm not a "Purist", so I would be inclined to pick the jacket that seemed to be better/more reinforced, even if this varied from the Originals. YMMV. it's possible that some Mfrs may offer applique (patch) leather reinforcements, perhaps at elbows, etc., goatskin most often used.

If you have unique sizing requirements, see which Mfr will work best with you to address your requirements. Be advised that as the sleeves crease-up a bit, they may shorten a bit, maybe 1/2" or so. Or maybe not.

Measure yourself according to the requirements of the individual Mfrs; the requirements may differ slightly.

Both Mfrs have good reputations, within their price range. Both can vary in price for the same article.

Please understand that typical storage of sheepskin jackets is to store them flat inside an air-tight container. They don't like to be "hung-up", even on a correct wide-shoulder hanger, for the long-term.

While these jackets (Irvin/B-3) are very warm, the warmth comes at the cost of bulkiness. You may find yourself going about with the jacket at least partially unzipped some of the time. You might consider ordering UP a chest size in order that the jacket does not restrict body/arm movement. This "up-sizing" will also come in handy when wearing a thin fleece jacket inside the Irving. The reason for this is that it is often kinda cool inside most buildings during the winter, so you might wish to wear a thin fleece zippered jacket, with stand-up mandarin collar for comfort when the Irvin is doffed indoors.

My thinking here is since the jacket is going to be bulky anyway, at the slight added extra bulk of "up-sizing" will be allow better body/arm movement while wearing the jacket. IMHO, one can often wear a jacket that is a little too large, but it is seldom possible/comfortable to wear a jacket that is a little too small. It's never pleasant to wear a jacket that constricts/fights you, even if the nominal dimensions are "correct".

Get a decent thin scarf to protect the sheep's wool from body oils, etc.

 

[Zoro]

Over the Five Star thread I recall reading that their shearling was ok (At least at one point) and their sizing/pattern decent as long as you didn't enter the custom measures lottery. Edit: After MrProper's answer right below, I might recall wrong

I don't know much about Avi, but I think I would go with them simply because no matter where they are making their jackets, they are an EU company, so you should be able to get the jacket and return it without much hassle if you're not happy with it, while with Five Star it wouldn't be as easy.

 

[MrProper]

Hi everyone,

I don’t think there’s been a thread directly comparing these two jackets yet, even though both seem to be quite popular among Fedora Lounge members.

I’m currently trying to decide between the Five Star Irvin Jacket and the AVI Leather Irvin Jacket. From what I understand, both are made in Pakistan.

• Which one would you choose — Five Star or AVI — and why?
• Has anyone had the chance to see both in person?
• What are the main differences in terms of build quality, materials, and finish?
• Which one offers better customization options (leather type, colors, details, etc.)?

I’d really appreciate any feedback, photos, or hands-on impressions — especially from anyone who’s owned or compared both.

Thanks in advance!

Unfortunately, I don't know Avi, but I've had various 5* shearling coats and would advise against them. The fur varies from okay to not very dense and the leather is thin in every case.
The leather is about half the thickness of my Aero shearling coats.
Maybe 5* has improved the quality, but then there are other risks that I wouldn't want to take.

 

[Edward]

Over the Five Star thread I recall reading that their shearling was ok (At least at one point) and their sizing/pattern decent as long as you didn't enter the custom measures lottery. Edit: After MrProper's answer right below, I might recall wrong

I don't know much about Avi, but I think I would go with them simply because no matter where they are making their jackets, they are an EU company, so you should be able to get the jacket and return it without much hassle if you're not happy with it, while with Five Star it wouldn't be as easy.

AVI were all the rage for about ten minutes on TFL a few years ago. As I recall, there was something of a controversy when it came out that they were being made in the Far East rather than in Europe; I don't know if they ever confirmed exactly where. There was someone briefly selling A2s on eBay that looked very similar and with blurb claiming AVI as one of the companies they made for. Price was radically undercutting them, though, so who knows if they had a significant mark-up or the quality wasn't the same...
Another brand I've seen selling in Europe but priced as clearly made elsewhere is Brabander at https://qmi.be/en . I was tempted by their redskin B3 at a third of the price of the big names, but didn't manage to get a sense of their sizing. (No size charts on any of their pages), and couldn't find any reviews anywhere. Their A2s discussed on VLJ were considered pretty decent for the money for those wanting something to paint and patch (which is why they interest me), but I've never been able to find a review of their shearlings. Cheap for what they are, but still way too much a chunk of change for me to risk on something that might not be all that once in hand. FWIW, they supplied the long, od greatcoats worn in Masters of the Air, but seemingly none of the flying jackets.

 

[Zoro]

Their A2s discussed on VLJ were considered pretty decent for the money for those wanting something to paint and patch (which is why they interest me), but I've never been able to find a review of their shearlings

I found this one but it is not really a review and they seem more focused on the repro authenticity than the quality itself. Having said this, they seem overall quite happy when it comes to price/quality (perhaps fidelity rather than quality?).

I haven't found any mention of where their jackets are made (only that they are "designed in Denmark") and I would also be wary of someone claiming they made jackets for them and now they are selling them at a discount. In my experience overall (not particularly leather jackets), it is very easy to claim such a thing and even if true, it doesn't automatically mean that the product you'll produce under your own label will be the same quality as the one the brand tasked you with.

 

[raf]

Over at VLJ forum, both AVI and 5* often compared. Purists may bemoan one or the other as not being "Correct" Repros, but that involves considering jackets costing multiples of the AVI/5* price.

For example, "Top-Tier" jackets from Aero and Eastman usually exceed E 1k in price, and custom sizing may increase cost, not to mention import "duties" and shipping. There are other similar jackets even more expensive.

We all agree that quality of materials, workmanship and features are all important. Suggest searching for recent comments at VLJ site concerning AVI and 5* Irvin jackets.

One more thing: the "larger" the leather panels, the better, IMHO. This means fewer sewn seams, and sewn seams are always weaker than the leather--particularly with relatively fragile sheepskin. Sometimes less is more.

 

[Rick Dalton]

Unfortunately, I don't know Avi, but I've had various 5* shearling coats and would advise against them. The fur varies from okay to not very dense and the leather is thin in every case.
The leather is about half the thickness of my Aero shearling coats.
Maybe 5* has improved the quality, but then there are other risks that I wouldn't want to take.

I remember seeing a post here on Fedora about your shearling jacket collection, and I was really impressed — I’m pretty sure those were jackets from some of the top maker. Big thanks to all of you guys for the heads-up and warnings about the quality of Five Star and Avi. I'm still actively looking for a good shearling option on a budget.


What’s your opinion on Cockpit USA? I have a chance to get a used B-3 Pearl Harbor Edition (I believe it’s made from distressed leather?) for around the same price as a new one from Avi or Five Star. Do you think that would be a better choice? At that level of similarity to the original design, quality is the most important thing for me.


Ideally, I’d prefer something like an Irvin, but I guess I can’t be too picky.

 

[raf]

If you are not completely "married" to the Irvin/B-3 concept, you might wish to consider either the Repro USAAF B-6 or D-1 shearling jackets. Generally, about 1/2 the thickness of wool (compared to Irvin/B-3) and lighter/less bulky. I'm a big fan of the "Bi-Swing" back " (Action Back) on the B-6, which provides increased body/arm mobility.

The only feature the B-6 lacks is an internal wind flap, but it is possible that a mfr making both B-6 jackets and D-1 jackets could add a wind flap from a D-1 to a B-6, likely at some additional cost. D-1 lacks "Bi-Swing" back which is a no-go for me.

Body lengths for same chest size of D-1/B-6 will differ, IIRC, the D-1 running a bit shorter--check this, please. This difference may matter to you if you're most often sitting/driving while wearing the jacket, or if it's really cold out and the rear of the shorter jacket isn't getting it done for you.

There are any number of Schott/Avirex B-6 jackets for sale on e-bay, most of them having woven waistband and cuffs, and possibly lacking the "Bi-Swing" back feature. Suggest avoiding these "Non-Correct" items, since one can buy a decent Repro from AVI/5* probably for the same or less price.

 

[Rick Dalton]

If you are not completely "married" to the Irvin/B-3 concept, you might wish to consider either the Repro USAAF B-6 or D-1 shearling jackets. Generally, about 1/2 the thickness of wool (compared to Irvin/B-3) and lighter/less bulky. I'm a big fan of the "Bi-Swing" back " (Action Back) on the B-6, which provides increased body/arm mobility.

The only feature the B-6 lacks is an internal wind flap, but it is possible that a mfr making both B-6 jackets and D-1 jackets could add a wind flap from a D-1 to a B-6, likely at some additional cost. D-1 lacks "Bi-Swing" back which is a no-go for me.

Body lengths for same chest size of D-1/B-6 will differ, IIRC, the D-1 running a bit shorter--check this, please. This difference may matter to you if you're most often sitting/driving while wearing the jacket, or if it's really cold out and the rear of the shorter jacket isn't getting it done for you.

There are any number of Schott/Avirex B-6 jackets for sale on e-bay, most of them having woven waistband and cuffs, and possibly lacking the "Bi-Swing" back feature. Suggest avoiding these "Non-Correct" items, since one can buy a decent Repro from AVI/5* probably for the same or less price.

Thanks for the feedback.
Any opinions on how Cockpit’s B-3 Pearl Harbor Edition holds up versus AVI? Maybe Cockpit’s is better since it’s US-made, while AVI might be made in China?

 

[Rick Dalton]

Thanks for the feedback.
Any opinions on how Cockpit’s B-3 Pearl Harbor Edition holds up versus AVI? Maybe Cockpit’s is better since it’s US-made, while AVI might be made in China?

No opinions on Cockpit vs AVI yet?
Just a small note — the Cockpit B-3 Pearl Harbor Edition has a few slightly ahistorical collar snaps, but overall the quality seems solid. Anyone else notice that?

 

[Despot]

Unfortunately, I don't know Avi, but I've had various 5* shearling coats and would advise against them. The fur varies from okay to not very dense and the leather is thin in every case.
The leather is about half the thickness of my Aero shearling coats.
Maybe 5* has improved the quality, but then there are other risks that I wouldn't want to take.

So, I’ve recently gotten the shearling bug, and my first port of entry was Five Star - I ordered a D1.

The leather seemed fine, and the stitching was perfect (I’ve more expensive jackets with poorer stitching). I was initially worried that the fleece was thin, but having nothing else to compare it to I wasn’t sure whether this was simply the thinner fleece of a D1 or leather choice.

The bug having gotten its teeth into me, I then ordered an Eastman Flyweight Irvin, which I absolutely love. But here’s the thing …. the five star is heavier.

The fleece seems comparably thick on both (the Eastman Marino being thin by design in the flyweight). The leather outer is ‘dryer’ in the Eastman (it has that crazed marbled treatment) and the Five Star has a sort of shiny treatment that looked quite plastic at first (it’s dulled down now with use).

I think Five Star might be hit and miss - the D1 is slightly roomier in pattern (but I sized down to allow for that and found their measurements to be spot on). Only issue I have with the five star is the fleece being yellowed (instead of the white fleece you’d get on other D1s). Doesn’t bother me much as it’s actually a super warm, great fitting jacket.

I’d expected to move the D1 on when I got the flyweight but … I’m actually gonna keep both (I have an illness!)

 

[MrProper]

I’m actually gonna keep both (I have an illness!)

What a question, of course you keep both.
I don't understand the problem LOL.

I have three shearling coats plus a shearling vest, and if I weren't such a master of self-control, I would buy more shearling

 

[Despot]

There are valid and different use cases to both though.

As much as I love the Irvin, it’s very much a particular look. To the average person on the street it stands out as different. I love that about it … but I guess it can come across a bit cosplay to some (not my word - the word used by a mate when he saw me wearing it, followed up by “fair play, is never be able to pull that off”).

The D1 on the other hand just looks like a shearling jacket. So many high street sheepskins follow the same look - straight zip with two front pockets … making it look clean and understated. To jacket nerds like us, we’ll clock the zipper, or the neck strap and know it for what it is as a historical replica … but it doesn’t jump out the same way to others as the Irvin does.

Both though are great in being thinner fleece. I had a second hand B3 before from Eastman that was a size too small for me so I moved it on … but even without being able to zip it up I knew that it was too heavy for practical use. The D1/flyweight Irvin weight is warm enough for harsh weather, but easy wearing in the current mild autumn 12-13 degree days too.

 

[heartdoc]

I've had a B-3 from Avi and actually really like it. The fleece is thick and the leather develops a nice patina. Morten is very helpful and returns /exchanges are no hassle. No experience with their Irvin though.