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Guide to Vintage Leather Jackets

jchance

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I’vd been trying to avoid vintage/worn in jackets … just because I'm not educated enough to understand their value, it deeply confuses me why some are worth £90 and some £900.

The above comment is commonly echoed among new forum members. Let’s crowdsource a guide on vintage leather jackets. I’m sure people here has different opinions on their favorites and what’s overrated and underrated when it comes to vintage.

If you’re a size 34-40 US, there are a lot of vintage leather jackets in your size. About half of the vintage leather jackets is in size 36–the average American men’s size in 1930s-1950s. If you’re size 42 and above, you might have to wait a long time for one to show up.

Except for Cal and Langlitz, I suggest staying with mid 1950s or earlier. Due to availability, mid 1950s or earlier mostly use horsehide, late 1950s steerhide, and 1960s-later cowhide. Generally, older jackets tend to be more expensive.

You’d want to find one in a good condition, no leather crackings or mold/mild dew. The jacket’s condition could increase or lower its price point. And simple supply and demand dictates that more popular brands command higher prices, and vice versa. For instance, Durable, Buco, and Sears Hercules are highly sought after and thus command a higher price than what their quality indicates or their alternatives. I’d suggest staying away from these popular brands.

-Around $100, up to $200: This is entry-level, with mostly 1960s-later jackets. You can also find some 1950s or earlier jackets that are thrashed and require extensive repairs. For example, Brooks gold label, Reed, Kehoe, Fidelity, Excelled, Branded Garments, Lesco, Harley Davidson AMF.

-Around $300: This is the sweet spot of vintage leather jackets. Most leather jackets can be found at this price point, if you wait long enough. For example, Cal (any decade), Al’s, Windward, Sears Oakbrook, Aldencrest, Spiegel, Kit Karson, Guide Master Wolf / Edgo / Julesons, 1950s Fidelity, Nelco, Blatt, Grais, Taubers.

-Around $700: collector’s territory, usually in excellent condition. For example, Sears Hercules, Ralphs-Pugh, Star Glove (prob closer to $1k), Cal red label (prob closer to $500), 1950s Harley Davidson.

- 4-digits: extremely rare jackets like original Peter’s, original Trojans, Block Bilt, original Buco in good condition, cat’s eye (1940s Californian), 1940s or earlier Harley Davidson. Otherwise, sellers are still in the clouds, wait and let them come down to earth with time.

If you’re just starting out, I suggest you get a Cal, which can easily be found in any sizes. It would change your opinion on vintage leather jackets. In this leather-jacket game, the only way to learn is to dive in, head first. If you stay in the $300s, you can recoup most, if not all, the cost if it doesn’t work out. Don’t be afraid to buy a few, lose a few $20s, and you’ll be familiar with the vintage jackets in no time. If you read this guide and most of the links over several times, you’d be well versed in the vintage market.

You should first learn how to date a jacket by zipper:


You should read, and familiarize yourself with the brands, labels, and jacket’s details in, the following threads. If the threads are intimidating, focus on the pics and skip the writings. You should take notes of the brands mentioned in the second linked thread.


Below are less relevant vintage jackets because they are extremely rare. I included them for completeness but you can skip these.

 
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jchance

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Here's what I've noticed after buying/selling about 70 used jackets.

$75-125 range. If all you're after is a leather jacket because you like the look, attitude, whatever, and you're on a super tight budget, there are solid options that will check off a lot of boxes. Brooks, Kehoe, Branded, Fidelity, etc. Some years/labels are better than other, so you have to do some homework, but this is a great entry point to try different styles, colors, patterns, etc.

$275-350 range. Here you can get into some brand recognition and significant upgrade in leather "quality" (thicker, more potential for evolution, etc.) Cal Leathers, Vanson, older Schott. IMO, it's worth it to save up a little more over the first tier and start here, but I have also seen some incredible sub $100 jackets.

$500-650 range. Now you get to taste the mid and some higher tiers. Again, "nicer" leather, more brand recognition, etc. Aero, newer/special edition Schott, Langlitz. If you know your style, know your measurements, know what you want, this is a great tier to pick up a life long jacket. Most of the price hit is factored in already, so you can afford a couple mistakes here as most of these jackets can be resold at little loss.

After that, the next tier is probably $1000-1200 range, but since the focus here seems to be on less expensive price points, don't need to say much more.

I also haven't factored in a lot of the vintage stuff I see Terry, Ton, etc. picking up at what seems like very fair prices. Don't know enough about them, but there also seems to be a magic tier in the $300-500 range there as well if you want something truly heritage, etc.

…. when you are up in the $1200-$2000 range of jackets, there is substantially more risk buying a 70 year old piece off of a few pictures from a website than buying a repro. But Vintage jackets in this price range are edging into Collector territory not necessarily the realm of buy to wear often (or ever for that matter).

Price varies wildly depending on condition, who’s selling it and where it’s listed. In a high end retail setting, a mint one can be $1000 or more. From an uneducated seller on eBay, the same jacket can be $200 or less.

Generally speaking, if you’re lucky to find one in good condition that’s your size, I’d say anywhere in the middle is fair.
 
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jchance

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Unlabeled leather jackets bring the price down by a lot. About half of 1940s or earlier jackets are unlabeled. About half of Cal jackets are unlabeled. Below is how to spot an unlabeled Cal and Al’s.

The general shape of each leather panel, the black satin lining, Talon zippers, two back-of-neck snaps, mouton inside the sleeves, etc. should look like a Cal.

Sleeve double-row stitching and Cal signature’s stitched pocket onto the leather.

IMG_1412.jpeg


4 rows of stitching in the back kidney panel, 3 rings for side laces, and belt loop snapping from bottom to top to close.

IMG_1413.jpeg



In contrast, Al’s leather jackets, while having a lot of similarity to Cal’s, have 2 distinct features: single stitching on the sleeves and belt loop snapping from top to bottom to close.

IMG_1512.jpeg
 
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jchance

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Discussion of construction found in Albert Richard vs. California Sportswear Co. (CSC), aka Californian, after the link. Keep scrolling down for responses.


You should also follow the above “finds and deals” thread for updates. The “deals” are curated by the members in the know finding mostly vintage leather jackets at a good price.

Discussion on CSC vs. Los Angeles Sportogs:

 
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jchance

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Below is an underrated dating method if you have the vintage jacket on hand. Poly cotton threads became widely available by 1950, so if your vintage leather jacket uses cotton threads by the burning test, it’s 1940s or earlier.

Note that the cotton threads in 1940s or earlier jackets are susceptible to rotting, and prob need a restitching in their entirety. You can hear the seams ripping with each moment having the jacket on.

I just thought of another way of dating the jackets. By the type of thread used.

Poly cotton thread wasn't really commercialized until the 50s. So if the loose thread melts with a lighter, it's poly blend, aka post war. If the loose thread keeps burning and doesn't melt then it's cotton so pre war. Of course this would need to burn a small thread to know, which isn't ideal. But another way is to look for melted thread ends around the cuff and inside hem. If visible, then it's poly, if not then cotton. The melted thread ends has been one of my pet peeves on expensive repros depending where they are located, it irritate my skin the wrong way. And one thing lead to another, I fell upon this thought about the threads.

Less relevant but still useful is how to date the jacket by snap:


To keep cost low, you should also learn to how to DIY small repair jobs:

 
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jchance

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Not sure what to buy? Below are some reviews of vintage jackets at the highest level by various experienced members. But the vintage hunt is mostly dependent on luck: if a less popular jacket shows up in your size at a tolerable price, don’t hesitate to grab it instead of being picky about this or that brand. If not, you might have to wait for a long time before another one shows up, if ever.

… They may not be the most perfectly stitched jackets in the world but after all these years, I can tell you right away that this one Cal I have is the highest quality leather jacket I've ever handled. Maybe only Bates competes on the same level but yeah, Bates & Cal are at the top of the list for me.
I do have a Langlitz Columbia and it's seriously one of the best leather jackets I've ever seen in my life and right now, if I had the money to spare for a single jacket, it'd be Langlitz.
...
Their jackets are among the highest prized jackets on eBay regardless of the year, hide, weight, condition, etc., for a good reason.

I've yet to be disappointed in a California Sportswear jacket. They are more of the "Gold Standard" for me. … I've been a big advocate for Rich Sher quality.
The Topline series was just that, Sears Top jackets. … These were the highlight for the Sears brand. To me, these were the end of the Golden era jackets.
Penny started out with the Sportclad labeled MC jackets in the early 50s. These jackets, made by Kurland, are fine quality jackets, on par with the other makers. When they dropped the Sportclad label they seemed to have lost somthing.

To offer quality "budget" jackets Sears employed Appalachian Tanned and Tallored, I believe Penney used American in Utah. They were not up to CSC, Roughwear standards, but cost less.
… Taubers-Not only my favorite maybe the Best jacket I own.

…. generally speaking, the newer jackets on average don’t come close to vintage, say pre 1955. Heavy horsehide from the 30s - circa 1950s is miles ahead of stuff you’ll find today.

I’ve handled a number of vintage jackets - the best in hand I’ve felt are Ralph’s Pugh steerhide early 1940s and Guidemaster Wolf horsehide 1950.

Newest addition, Kit Karson. It's out of this world. Highest quality, great condition, perfect fit. One of my best buys if not the best.
 
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jchance

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If you like vintage A-2, you should use the following guide from VLJ as a reference to locate the contract number. VLJ also has other guides for vintage military-issued jackets. If you like military stuff, you should be on VLJ. TFL is more on the civilian stuff.

 
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AHP91

One Too Many
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1,476
this is like some good info, and some overly broad info. If you wanna know the vintage market, you can take a look at what the Japanese buy. They generally have a very strong idea of which is valuable.

For instance, I was offered $500 for a pretty decent condition wool lined kit karson by a fellow who I know will sell it for twice that in Japan. Further, placing “Sears Hercules” into collector territory is too broad - there are some extremely rare Hercules’ jackets, while there are other very common ones. Another: original Bucos are certainly not in the same category as Peter’s - many Bucos were mass produced in the 50s and 60s, while some are extremely rare. Peter’s are like unicorns of the past and get bought up very quickly and for astronomical amounts.
 

jchance

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LA
If you wanna know the vintage market, you can take a look at what the Japanese buy. They generally have a very strong idea of which is valuable.

For instance, I was offered $500 for a pretty decent condition wool lined kit karson by a fellow who I know will sell it for twice that in Japan.

Maybe I’m just not in the know, but how do I find out what the Japanese “buy”? I can easily find out what they sell, but I assume you mean something else? Obviously they have to buy the vintage leather jackets in order to have inventory to sell, but I thought it’s a game of luck / chance encounters. Maybe I’m wrong.
 

AHP91

One Too Many
Messages
1,476
By looking at the prices they ask for certain jackets, you can pretty easily determine which sorts of jackets they clearly hold in high regard.

They are generally more in line with their high market value, minus some outliers. Often times on eBay sellers just assume that any old jacket is valuable, whereas you can see which jackets specialized vendors seek out.
 

jchance

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LA
By looking at the prices they ask for certain jackets, you can pretty easily determine which sorts of jackets they clearly hold in high regard.

They are generally more in line with their high market value, minus some outliers. Often times on eBay sellers just assume that any old jacket is valuable, whereas you can see which jackets specialized vendors seek out.

Is the Japanese’ pricing indicative of quality (i.e., higher price means higher quality) or simply just popularity and how easy it is to resell the jackets?
 
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AHP91

One Too Many
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1,476
Is the Japanese’ pricing indicative of quality (i.e., higher price means higher quality) or simply just popularity and how easy it is to resell the jackets?
It’s safe to assume they (as do most) place a high value to a blend of quality, originality, rarity.
 

jchance

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By looking at the prices they ask for certain jackets, you can pretty easily determine which sorts of jackets they clearly hold in high regard.

They are generally more in line with their high market value, minus some outliers.

If you have to be more specific with your knowledge systematically (which brands and their price ranges), could you explain to me like I’m 5? This is meant to be a guide for newbies to the vintage scene.

Given that you disagree with “some overly broad info”, could you dive deeper and make the info less broad, more accurate and precise?

I showed you mine, now you show me yours.
 
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AHP91

One Too Many
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1,476
If you have to be more specific with your knowledge systematically (which brands and their price ranges), could you explain to me like I’m 5? This is meant to be a guide for newbies to the vintage scene.

Given that you disagree with “some overly broad info”, could you dive deeper and make the info less broad, more accurate and precise?

I showed you mine, now you show me yours.
There’s many posts where other members outlined their findings. Simplifying any maker’s history multi decade long history in a sentence isn’t going to cut it.

I also find it a bit strange that you are grabbing other people’s photos and reposting without any due credit, as well as taking my own classified description nearly word for word, but that’s another story.
 
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All of this is worthless to Gen Z. Gen X and a few scrappy millennials might care but it’s wild to think the current young ‘uns by and large find all of this stuff wildly out of style, antiquated and ugly AF. Once Gen X dies off this stuff will be of almost no value or interest at all…until the next gen comes along and finds it valuable again, and at that point, it will likely be sawdust.
 
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There’s many posts where other members outlined their findings. Simplifying any maker’s history multi decade long history in a sentence isn’t going to cut it.

I also find it a bit strange that you are grabbing other people’s photos and reposting without any due credit, as well as taking my own classified description nearly word for word, but that’s another story.
I agree. I’ve spent nearly 14 years here reporting everything I’ve discovered first hand and I’m willing to accept it’s all worthless….But trying to package all of the knowledge here into a single neat and tidy thread has the feel of a google result for “vintage leather jackets”.

Rest assured, any future interest in these types of jackets is like a dinosaur staring at an asteroid. The greatest generation is not of any interest to the coming youth. They don’t see it that way. They don’t romanticize their clothes. They want to buy a wardrobe and pitch it 6 months later and start over.

When was the last time you looked to by 1890’s outerwear? Me either.
 

AHP91

One Too Many
Messages
1,476
I agree. I’ve spent nearly 14 years here reporting everything I’ve discovered first hand and I’m willing to accept it’s all worthless….But trying to package all of the knowledge here into a single neat and tidy thread has the feel of a google result for “vintage leather jackets”.

Rest assured, any future interest in these types of jackets is like a dinosaur staring at an asteroid. The greatest generation is not of any interest to the coming youth. They don’t see it that way. They don’t romanticize their clothes. They want to buy a wardrobe and pitch it 6 months later and start over.

When was the last time you looked to by 1890’s outerwear? Me either.
You’re asking the wrong guy about searching for 1890s clothing - I’m a psychopath. But I understand your point
 

jchance

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I agree. I’ve spent nearly 14 years here reporting everything I’ve discovered first hand and I’m willing to accept it’s all worthless….But trying to package all of the knowledge here into a single neat and tidy thread has the feel of a google result for “vintage leather jackets”.

I’m a millennial that didn’t get into the leather jacket hobby until well into my 30s. Admittedly, it’s a niche hobby with a steep learning curve, but I didn’t even know where to begin when it came to vintage leather jackets. I’m no longer a college student and don’t lack money, but I didn’t know where to start and whether something 70+ years old is even worth spending on $200+ on, echoing the quoted comment in the OP. I’ve gotten better at it now, taking one bite at a time months later. So why did I write this and starting some related threads on CSC, Admiral Byrd, and Albert Richard, etc.?

First, for the other threads, the info on each brand is all over the forum and hard to locate. Focusing the discussion and photos of the jackets of each brand in a single thread serves as a repository of knowledge for me to reference back later. I learned about them as I researched each brand, grouped each design into a single post to distinguish between the designs. For example, I used to confuse Admiral Byrd and Albert Richard and thought they were the same(!) (To be fair, both start with an A.) For a long time, I couldn’t spot a CSC in the wild, but now I can because I can easily reference the CSC thread and compare without digging through the entire forum to search for a CSC jacket as a reference.

Second, it actually helps you as a seller to educate and acclimate the potential buyers—the former newbies—to the vintage leather-jacket game. If they know the brand and the value of the jacket(s) you’re trying to sell, they are more willing to open their wallets to buy your stuff. If they don’t know the difference between a Grais and a Rich-Sher, they for sure wouldn’t fork out $700+ for a Rich-Sher. One must first understand something in order to appreciate it, not just when it comes to leather jackets but also in life. The more people you have introduced to this niche hobby, the more friends that shares a similar interest you have.

This thread isn’t meant to be comprehensive or rehashing stuff that has already been posted elsewhere. It is meant as a starting guide to point some new-to-the-hunt readers (like me not too long ago)—not you knowledgeable old timers—to the right direction. If you didn’t find my threads useful, you were not their target audience (but you could still be a contributor).

Third, I got the inspiration from the Wolf / Edgo thread. That thread was expertly done (thanks @Yevhen!) and has all the info condensed onto less than 4 pages. It has most of the different various jacket designs that one can easily reference back to when necessary. One does not need to search hard for the needle in a haystack, no one likes doing that. I’d just give up instead, the gain is not worth the effort.

There is time to debate and discuss, and then there is time to summarize. Just as in the corporate world with reading the executive summary instead of sifting over memos of 50+ pages, everyone needs a tl;dr version. This thread wants to do that, too, but that’s a tall order.

Let me ask you this, when newcomers come here for questions, and they get their answers, why do you think they don’t stay? Because there is nothing to do here! It’s just a bunch of middle-aged or older men talking about hats and leather jackets, neither of the topics interest them (yet). If there’s nothing easy and interesting for them to read and get acclimated to, what would they stick around for? Waiting for the finds-and-sales posts that they are unsure of pulling the trigger because they think you’re just pulling their leg? If the specialized knowledge remains in your head (or is hard to locate on their own because they don’t know how to begin searching or what to search for), that’s just gatekeeping and you’d exclude a lot of people.
 
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jchance

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LA
How does one determine an unlabeled jacket, where the hide label is still readable or barely legible? The tell-tale sign is in the hide labels. Sometimes the color of the hide label may look different, the type of the hide may say different (“steerhide” or “cowhide” instead of “horsehide”) but the font and design stay the same. Instead of combing through the threads, the followings are commonly found hide labels. Obviously they are not definitive, so do compare the features of the rest of the jacket in question, too.

California Sportswear Co. aka Californian
IMG_2894.jpeg IMG_2892.jpeg

LA Sportogs, ribbon hanging style but sometimes not, just horizontally stitched.
IMG_2895.jpeg IMG_2896.jpeg

Guide Master Wolf, also look for trianglular stitching above/below the belt loops. If it has French seams everywhere, it’s likely Edgo/Kit Karson.
IMG_2890.jpeg
IMG_2908.jpeg

Star Sportswear (Kurland)
IMG_2947.jpeg

Blatt, also look for 4 beads at the end of the pocket zippers or leather pulls on zippers:
IMG_2897.jpeg

Rich-Sher
IMG_2902.jpeg IMG_2903.jpeg
 
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