Spring-loaded Crown zipper thread

[jchance]

Worth noting re altering zipper length is that with 2nd model, M46 #10 separating zipper, MASH can “Shorten to your Request length” when you place an order. They prob remove the circular stop, remove the teeth to the desired length, then put the stop back on.

Crown, 2nd Model(M46), #10, Separating Zipper, Spring Pinlocking, Olive Brown Tape, Shorten to your Request length up to 79cm, NOS

Packaging of ordering from MASH, two #10 for £98 including shipping. @NamoAmituofo did it

Packaging of M57

 

[jchance]

The #5 older spring-loaded chevron zippers from crown are not very strong at all. Stu at LW share with me that he does not think they are appropriate for sleeves. However, we did agree with the #5 main zip gold newer design for one of my Trojan he first produced back in the day. Lastly, there is an image of a salesman sample booklet that contained many of the day-to-day production zippers for potential customers to view.

Both the #5 Crown zippers on my Star Glove need to be replaced, the tapes have torn off. They are still useable but they are not perfect. In terms of durability, I’m not sure Crown can measure up to Talon.

Do you have the sample booklet you can share here?

 

[photo2u]

Worth noting re altering zipper length is that with 2nd model, M46 #10 separating zipper, MASH can “Shorten to your Request length” when you place an order. They prob remove the circular stop, remove the teeth to the desired length, then put the stop back on.

Crown, 2nd Model(M46), #10, Separating Zipper, Spring Pinlocking, Olive Brown Tape, Shorten to your Request length up to 79cm, NOS

View attachment 741189

There is more than that to properly do the stops on those zippers. Must be aware of the two different stops installed on the tapes. Additionally, the rod must be properly indented. Lastly, the best solution to shortening most heavy-duty zippers in my view is a rapid stop.

 

[jchance]

1939 Sears ad with available zipper brands including Crown (top left), Talon (bottom right), and Standard

1941

early 1940s

March 1944 ad in American aviation magazine called Aero Digest announcing how the new Crown zipper works.

1944

1947

May 1, 1954 ad in Vogue / Vanity Fair

April 18, 1954

 

[photo2u]

Both the #5 Crown zippers on my Star Glove need to be replaced, the tapes have torn off. They are still useable but they are not perfect. In terms of durability, I’m not sure Crown can measure up to Talon.

Do you have the sample booklet you can share here?

I do have a small image. Let me locate it. I must also state the following. Most zippers fail due to user's neglect. Also, some were used beyond their service life span. Remember, back on the day, some jacket makers were buying products that were at surplus rates for some of their jackets. A very strong #5 crown zipper in my view is a cool looking OD color zipper used in their later 50s military garments.

 

[Joseph Hill]

Very nice series of pictures and information. So molded direct to the tape is confirmed (I guess I had actually come across that before, but had forgotten). I still wonder how they manage it. Is the fabric tape fed through a machine with molding tooth by tooth, or a certain length molded in one shot (Some of those tapes are quite long, esp. with the larger sizes)? I'm still surprised there is no sign of fabric scorching. Zinc alloys typically melt at 4-500 degrees F, but pouring/injecting temps are around 700F. I also am at a loss how they manage the brass plating without acidic degradation of the cotton. I've got a few zips (both plated and 'in the white'). I'd love to be able to plate my #12s brass.

 

[jchance]

Very nice series of pictures and information. So molded direct to the tape is confirmed (I guess I had actually come across that before, but had forgotten). I still wonder how they manage it. Is the fabric tape fed through a machine with molding tooth by tooth, or a certain length molded in one shot (Some of those tapes are quite long, esp. with the larger sizes)? I'm still surprised there is no sign of fabric scorching. Zinc alloys typically melt at 4-500 degrees F, but pouring/injecting temps are around 700F. I also am at a loss how they manage the brass plating without acidic degradation of the cotton. I've got a few zips (both plated and 'in the white'). I'd love to be able to plate my #12s brass.

Interesting questions but we don’t have the answers. Outside of the WHAT, I’m not sure anyone here is an expert in Crown zipper to answer the mechanics of HOW it was made. Google AI says no Crown patent (to disclose the invention) existed, I didn’t dig further. Without inspecting the machine that made the Crown zippers or speaking to a former employee that operated such a machine, I’m not sure how anyone here would know. It was probably proprietary info that made Crown zipper stood out among its peers and not replicated.

There is one way though. MASH and Eastman are making repro of Crown zippers. You can try asking them if they know how.

 

[jchance]

How to dye zipper tape, easy DIY

MASH link:

How to Dye Your Zipper

 

[Hoanglong]

I like this zipper . Was it originally called a whizzer zipper ?

All zippers fail at the fabric first. the metal head helps it survive for years.

 

[jchance]

I like this zipper . Was it originally called a whizzer zipper ?

All zippers fail at the fabric first. the metal head helps it survive for years.

No, that’s just what Freewheelers call it. Repros’ zippers try to copy the clam-shell Talon zippers (left and right) from 1930s.

The original 1930s Whizzer zipper, made by a Connecticut-based company, actually looks like this.

With zippers, I’ve had the tape failed first and the teeth failed first. Outside of the heavy-duty #10 and #12, zippers aren’t meant to last long with usage. Besides spring-loaded Crown, I like using #10 Talon.

 

[Hoanglong]

I mean the metal part at here would be better than fabric. Fabric will tear over time. I don't understand why other manufacturers don't do this.

 

[jchance]

Wavy Crown zippers from original A-2 Bronco’s. My Crown zipper from a Ralph Edwards suede jacket is also slightly wavy. These appear to be shrinkage due to time, not from the dryer.

 

[AHP91]

I mean the metal part at here would be better than fabric. Fabric will tear over time. I don't understand why other manufacturers don't do this.

It’s called a grommet, seen a lot on jackets in the 1920s, 1930s. Fabric tape materials generally got a little better and so less need for them. But mainly, it was costly and took time to make. I agree, I love them too.

 

[Bluechel]

What about these types? 50's?

 

[jchance]

What about these types? 50's?

Late 1950s, possibly M56 model.

see

50’s Langlitz Leathers Cascade | FOREMOST 古着・ビンテージ アメリカから富山に、富山から全国へ （フォアモースト）

 

[gjchristy]

Wavy Crown zippers from original A-2 Bronco’s. My Crown zipper from a Ralph Edwards suede jacket is also slightly wavy. These appear to be shrinkage due to time, not from the dryer.

View attachment 742502
View attachment 742503 View attachment 742504
View attachment 742505

Just uploaded my video of Crown Zipper -

 

[gjchristy]

Just uploaded my video of Crown Zipper -

Uh! Interesting observation. I had not noticed. Here are some pics. I agree with your theory you can see leather "stress marks" emanating from stitching.