Selvage Denim Advice

[Rossn12]

I’m a long time FL lurker and am looking for some advice. I’m interested in investing in a pair of selvage denim jeans. I’m tall (6’3”) and have big thighs for my height. I want a pair that don’t turn into yoga pants. I’ve looked a little at Iron Heart but honestly it’s overwhelming. Any brand and model advice would be great?

 

[cbez]

Iron heart are the best jeans I've had. But i wouldn't pay retail, I got mine barely used from japan for 20% of new

 

[jchance]

Where do you live? Can you try high quality jeans on in person? At that height, I wouldn’t risk hundreds of dollars with online purchases, I’ve been burnt more than once and I’m at average height/weight.

You can try it on in store then go home and pay for one of the same size online, if you’re frugal. Figuring your sizing in certain brands in store is key, that’s what brick and mortar stores are for.

Overpaying for one pair of well fitted jeans, if you must, is better than owning 3 pairs of ill fitted jeans that you don’t like or can’t wear.

 

[Rossn12]

I don’t have anywhere extremely close that deals in high end stuff (Dayton, OH) but may be worth it to travel. I have about 10 trips to Goodwill of used stuff that’s turned out to be too small or tight and don’t want to make the same mistake or post to the classified section if I can avoid it.

 

[MrProper]

You can try it on in store then go home and pay for one and the same size online.

Even though it is often done this way, it is not necessarily nice. Sometimes you can get a small discount in the shop, which is certainly fairer than leaving and buying online.

 

[El Marro]

You can try it on in store then go home and pay for one and the same size online. Figuring your sizing in certain brands in store is key, that’s what brick and mortar stores are for.

If enough people do that then there won’t be any more brick and mortar stores left.
And I know I am not one to talk, I have a serious Amazon condition, almost any small thing I want I order it from Amazon and there it is in my doorstep, sometimes in a matter of hours.
Still, if they take the trouble to help you out in the store and let you try something on and it fits and you like it then just buy it at the store.

 

[AerGuitar]

If you’re attracted to Iron heart, the 888 has roomy thighs and a nice taper. They also have a slightly higher rise than the other models I’ve tried. I THINK the 634 also has a roomy top block and is a straight leg, but I haven’t tried these. As a general rule with Iron Heart, I usually buy one size bigger than my “usual” in the waist EXCEPT with the 888s. The 888s are roomy enough up top to stick with my usual Jean size. If you’re doin the online thing, pay attention to all the given measurements and compare to pants that fit you well. This generally works for me, especially when buying used/washed. I have fallen victim to shrinkage with new ones on occasion, but a good retailer should know which brands will shrink by how much and where, providing some guidance.

 

[Rossn12]

If you’re attracted to Iron heart, the 888 has roomy thighs and a nice taper. They also have a slightly higher rise than the other models I’ve tried. I THINK the 634 also has a roomy top block and is a straight leg, but I haven’t tried these. As a general rule with Iron Heart, I usually buy one size bigger than my “usual” in the waist EXCEPT with the 888s. The 888s are roomy enough up top to stick with my usual Jean size. If you’re doin the online thing, pay attention to all the given measurements and compare to pants that fit you well. This generally works for me, especially when buying used/washed. I have fallen victim to shrinkage with new ones on occasion, but a good retailer should know which brands will shrink by how much and where, providing some guidance.

Thank you! I really appreciate the advice.

 

[Tom71]

If enough people do that then there won’t be any more brick and mortar stores left.
And I know I am not one to talk, I have a serious Amazon condition, almost any small thing I want I order it from Amazon and there it is in my doorstep, sometimes in a matter of hours.
Still, if they take the trouble to help you out in the store and let you try something on and it fits and you like it then just buy it at the store.

Exactly. I order online for convenience. When I get personal service, I
pay for it. Period!

Are we seriously discussing getting human advice on a EUR 300 item to then save 3% on that by ordering online?

 

[Bfd70]

Check out the”what jeans are you wearing today” thread. Realistically there are so many brands it requires trial and error. One way to narrow is to measure your favorite jeans, go go selfedge.com and plug those numbers into their jeans finder tool. Regarding weight for me 12-14 oz is a good all season weight.

 

[DogFacePonySoldier]

I don’t have anywhere extremely close that deals in high end stuff (Dayton, OH) but may be worth it to travel. I have about 10 trips to Goodwill of used stuff that’s turned out to be too small or tight and don’t want to make the same mistake or post to the classified section if I can avoid it.

This is something I learned the hard way. However if you have a pair of pants that fits well. Just focusing on fit with this part.

Measure it all from the waist. The thigh the hips the cuff. Online shops that sell IH for instance should have a chart on what to measure. See how it matches to your pair, if they don’t have it call the store and ask for it.

I went from tight to more wide leg because it is more comfortable. it took a while but I realize it clashes with some main pieces I would like to wear that is more suited to a slimmer silhouette, mainly my leather jacket.

My best pair I realize are a pair of cheaper polo jeans. I hear great things about Wrangler 13MWZ cowboy cut.

I like Freenote cloth, they have good deals during sales. I have their Modesto for that roomier feel, but the Bradford is the more slimmer build which goes better with my leather jacket.

I may do IH in the future. But I am sticking to my Modesto their good but loose where it doesn’t fade as a slimmer fit jean would

 

[Pandemic]

Check out the”what jeans are you wearing today” thread. Realistically there are so many brands it requires trial and error. One way to narrow is to measure your favorite jeans, go go selfedge.com and plug those numbers into their jeans finder tool. Regarding weight for me 12-14 oz is a good all season weight.

This is good advice. I agree that it is better to spend a little more to get a pair that fit exactly how you want in the weight that you want, but realistically it’s going to be some trial and error after months of wear. Realistically, you are unlikely to find your grail jeans first try.

That’s why I would start with something affordable while you figure out what you are looking for. Bravestar are popular and I know Bronson do quality products in wider fittings (buy from eBay resellers in the US to avoid tariff uncertainties). Orslow are more expensive but excellent

 

[Zoro]

If enough people do that then there won’t be any more brick and mortar stores left.
And I know I am not one to talk, I have a serious Amazon condition, almost any small thing I want I order it from Amazon and there it is in my doorstep, sometimes in a matter of hours.
Still, if they take the trouble to help you out in the store and let you try something on and it fits and you like it then just buy it at the store.

I'll also beat on this (moral) dead (high) horse as I always do this too.

If I go to a store, I try things on, a clerk takes their time to help me or provides me knowledge nuggets I was missing and they have what I want in my size, I may still leave to further think about it but if I buy, I'm buying it there. Future purchases I might turn to online shopping or not, but that first one has been earnt by them.

Different story if I just "self service" through it or the service is bad (some people looks even bothered when you ask them).

 

[Leathergato]

I find knowing your measurements and what fit you are going for is key if buying online.

Brave Star is good quality denim for a reasonable price but I have one pair of brand new jeans from them that I wore once in my house that I will probably have to sell on EBay because the fit and cut are just not right for me. I have slimmer thighs and the True Straight cut is a little too baggy on me in the 21oz.

I have three pairs of Iron Heart 666 jeans. I bought 2 of them gently used on EBay as trial pairs knowing that I can probably get most of my money back if I have to re-sell them. Both times I asked the sellers for waist measurements and they ended up fitting, but depending on the denim type the waist measurement can vary a bit. Once I confirmed my size I did buy my 3rd pair new but I also asked for a waist measurement of the new pair I was buying.

The texture and softness of the Iron Heart denim is pretty awesome.

 

[NYDRH]

I’m a long time FL lurker and am looking for some advice. I’m interested in investing in a pair of selvage denim jeans. I’m tall (6’3”) and have big thighs for my height. I want a pair that don’t turn into yoga pants. I’ve looked a little at Iron Heart but honestly it’s overwhelming. Any brand and model advice would be great?

Check out leftfieldny they have a specific fit for people with larger thighs and their measurements on the website are helpful to compare to things you have. The stuff is high quality with a focus on us made and they do source a lot of Japanese fabric as well. Can't go wrong with iron heart either. I've had a pair of iron heart 634 overdye forever and I really like the fit and denim but I have more of an average build so not sure how that model would work for you. The best advice is to compare to what you have that you like in terms of sizing as was mentioned above.

 

[CliffBar_no9]

I have the similar fit constraints. Less tall, but big thighs/legs for my height and waist size.

Measurements are the the most important things to consider. Most sites that sell selvedge have pretty comprehensive measurements. US retailers like Dant, Blue Owl, Selfedge, Franklin & Poe, etc have detailed fit measurements. Red Cast Heritage and Denimio are also good places as well.

I find that 3-4" of extra room in the thigh makes for a comfortable pant. E.g. a 23" thigh and jean with a 13" measurement across the thigh.

Iron heart is great, no doubt. But it is a big investment if they don't fit. If you can try them on in person. That would be best. Otherwise it may be wise to go with a less expensive option to test out fits and sizing.

Naked and Famous' True and Easy guy fits have relaxed thighs. A lot of folks start their jean journey here.

TCB is also a great option. I find both their 1950's and 1920's cut jeans very well fitting with a more accommodating thigh.

ONI also has some great cuts and fun fabrics if you're into that.

There is also a saying "buy for the thigh" which basically means buy any cut you want based on the thigh measurement then have the waist tailored to size. I've had this done by DenimTherapy. It was not all that expensive and very much worth it.

It likely will take some trial and error. But that's just part of the journey.

 

[jchance]

There is also a saying "buy for the thigh" which basically means buy any cut you want based on the thigh measurement then have the waist tailored to size. I've had this done by DenimTherapy. It was not all that expensive and very much worth it.

I have normal height/weight. This is new to me, and the first time I’ve heard of this saying. When I buy jeans, I go by the hem opening and the waist, ignoring the rest. Sometimes I pay attention to the rise, but even that is not necessary. I’ve only been burnt twice, once the knee was too wide, like carrot leg, and the other time, the knee was too tight, I couldn’t fit inside the jeans. Otherwise, there’s a certain cut I’m going for, and it’s the waist+hem opening that determine the cut of my jeans.

 

[CliffBar_no9]

I have normal height/weight. This is new to me, and the first time I’ve heard of this saying. When I buy jeans, I go by the hem opening and the waist, ignoring the rest. Sometimes I pay attention to the rise, but even that is not necessary. I’ve only been burnt twice, once the knee was too wide, like carrot leg, and the other time, the knee was too tight, I couldn’t fit inside the jeans. Otherwise, there’s a certain cut I’m going for, and it’s the waist+hem opening that determine the cut of my jeans.

Interesting! I can't exactly remember where I first saw that phrase, but I've seen it commonly used in Reddit threads and Discord communities.

Perhaps my exposure to it has been because most pants simply don't fit my legs without the waist being +4" too large.

I envy anyone who can fit in a standard pair of 501s or any other straight cut jeans!

 

[Rossn12]

The idea of getting a larger waist to increase thigh size is new to me and a great idea! Getting some awesome advice here, this is a great community

 

[Nykwil]

Left filed NYC makes their jeans in the states and are reasonable in price for the details they offer on their jeans.

The atlas and the greaser would probably fit you.