Recent content by Qirrel

Here's an option from huddersfield cloth: http://www.huddersfieldcloth.com/Product/1681 The price is £38 a metre if I remember correctly.

The rise, in tailoring terminology, is the difference between the inseam and the sideseam/outseam. The width of the waistband is sometimes included. The terms front rise and back rise can be informative, but are not really used in patternmaking. Your natural waist is the place on your torso...

It is simply a fashion thing, yes. For full dress waistcoats it had the effect of showing off and framing the starched bib front of the shirt. I guess it served a similar purpouse for the colourful fancy patterned shirts that went with the jazzy suits of the period.

The fox fabrics are expensive, I agree, but the weights and designs are incomparable to what is available elsewhere. If you want something in the lighter range with nicer designs there is also this range from Huddersfield Cloth: http://www.huddersfieldcloth.com/Products/34

You will need to pick it apart and recut it.

I'd say its a Norwegian thing, as I can't see any of the two images. Maybe the effect is spilling over into Sweden...

Very nice, Nick!

It looks like a jacket of the type used in ISSF-type shooting sports.

I wonder if pleats will come back to the contemporary tailoring scene. Has anyone seen modern jackets with action backs, front pleats or anything of the like?

There seeems to have been a matter of having as many pleats as possible one some of those 20s jackets.

The model having a belt I suspect it goes all the way to the sideseam, since that will save some fabric in the cutting, and the belt will hide the seam in any case.

My guess would be a cut to the underarm dart or the sideseam.

That's how I would have done it too.

I couldn't find anything in my books. I guess you can figure out a good way to do it by experimenting around a bit.

I think the area between the pleat, the underarm dart, the pocket and the armhole would be cut as a separate piece. That way there won't be any seam running from the pocket to the sideseam.