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Recent content by Tzedekh

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    Meeting my maker! Ravistailor.com

    The lapel rolls to the middle button on a three-button jacket. This was commonly seen on by Brooks Brothers suit jackets and sportcoats. On further inspection, yours is more of a 3-to-2.5 roll -- the lapel rolls to a point between the top and middle buttons. In my book, even nicer than a...
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    Meeting my maker! Ravistailor.com

    Nicely done. I like the 3-to-2 roll. My only quibble is the funky button "anchors." I was under the impression that jacket front buttons shouldn't be stitched through to the other side of the material. Otherwise, that is one of the best Ravi suits I've seen -- they even seem to have gotten the...
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    The 1950s Suit

    At least until the mid to late 1930s, 15-oz. was a spring weight.
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    Elastic Band Thingy around Arms of Shirts - What is it?

    They're called sleeve garters.
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    Unboxing my new Black Mod Suit from Indochino.

    The suit looks good and fits well. My only criticism -- and it's the same gripe I have with just about every online tailor I've seen -- is that the boutonniere hole is a keyhole buttonhole. I prefer the traditional boutonniere hole. It's similar to the keyhole, except that it's just a slit...
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    Yet Another My Custom Tailor Suit

    Annixter, I apologize that my comments came across as too harsh. I think you accomplished a significant achievement with an online suit, considering some of the horror stories I've read. Yours fits quite well, and the adjustments that I and others have indicated should be fairly straightforward...
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    Yet Another My Custom Tailor Suit

    Overall, the fit isn't bad (the shoulders look just about spot on). And now the bad news. The jacket looks 2 to 3 inches too long, the armhole looks maybe an inch too low, and the sleeves are about 2 inches too long. The vest is 1.5 to 2 inches too long in front and at least 4 inches too long on...
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    What is the history behind trouser lengths?

    No, the trouser length is pretty accurate. Look at old movies going back to the 1930s. Trousers generally had only a slight break or no break at all. In the '60s it was fashionable to dispense with the break, and slim-cut trousers tended to ride up a little, making the trouser leg look even...
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    1940 Spring/Summer Mont. Ward suits

    Using the consumer price index, $20 in 1940 would be about $310 today, and that $24 suit with six-button vest and two pairs of pants, about $370. Try getting a suit like that -- probably with 15- to 16-ounce fabric and basted- (not fused-) front jacket -- for anything less than a grand today...
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    Unusual Spectator shoe option

    Indy, which type of construction is used -- Goodyear welt, or Blake stitch? And do you make a last so that reordering is easy and the results are consistent?
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    3 button vs. 2 button

    Then why were suits so commonly vested? I would think eliminating the vest would reduce cost more.
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    Tailors in Melbourne & Sydney

    Yes, that is a danger with a shorter waistcoat. If one is to pursue a shorter vintage look, one must also make sure that the trouser waist is suitably higher, as well.
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    Tailors in Melbourne & Sydney

    The suit looks good, but the waistcoat suffers from "modernitis" -- it looks about 3 to 4 inches too long. This is typical (I should say nearly invariable) with modern vests. Your natural waist looks to be a little above the fourth vest button; this is where the waistband should be. Therefore...
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    Tailored shirts

    Do they have single-needle side seams, or safety (overlock) stitched? Do they do removable collar stays?

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