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Formality; Single-breasted vs. Double-breasted suits

benstephens

benstephens

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Aldershot, UK
Richard Warren said:
Again, not trying to say anything I don't know, but that theatrical costume and Mr. Magnoli's product, as good as it may be, are not examples of actual period suits. Peaked lapels on vests which are not intended to be seen seems to me superfluous and a little bit, well, excessive.

By all means, get what you like.
Click to expand...

I know very little, very little indeed. I do feel though most of the original suits I have come across from the 1930s with double breasted waistcoats have peaked lapels.

Ben

A CC41 suit.

blackPin1.jpg
 
benstephens

benstephens

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Have a look through this thread.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=46995

Remember, fashion and functionality do not always go hand in hand. It in reality would be superfluous to have a peaked lapel waistcoat, but, the prevailing style and fashion dictated otherwise.

The costumes in Jeeves and Wooster to the most part are actually quite well researched, especially by the second series. Although, importantly it is not a first hand source, you will find that most of the patterns are copied from original suits and not just a whim of the costume designer.

I met one of the costume advisors for the program and he knew a lot about mens fashion!

Kindest

Ben
 
Undertow

Undertow

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Des Moines, IA, US
Baron, Ben, or anyone in the know: do you suppose the DB waistcoats were designed for the purpose of removing one's jacket and remaining dignified or fashionable?

It seems to me, men of that era would have removed a jacket in order to feel more comfortable - especially on a particularly muggy day. Removing a jacket with a vest on (something without a collar at all) might look - oh, less dignified. But removing your jacket with a DB peaked waistcoat would still look pretty dressy, so to speak.
 
Qirrel

Qirrel

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The suburbs of Oslo, Norway
Undertow said:
Baron, Ben, or anyone in the know: do you suppose the DB waistcoats were designed for the purpose of removing one's jacket and remaining dignified or fashionable?

It seems to me, men of that era would have removed a jacket in order to feel more comfortable - especially on a particularly muggy day. Removing a jacket with a vest on (something without a collar at all) might look - oh, less dignified. But removing your jacket with a DB peaked waistcoat would still look pretty dressy, so to speak.
Click to expand...

I don't know if that was the original purpouse of the waistcoat ((not only the DB) (and i guess nobody will ever know)), but it certainly helps as far as looking good without your jacket on. It is good not having to constantly worry about your shirt bulging out or getting un-tucked in all sorts of ugly ways.
 
benstephens

benstephens

Practically Family
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689
Location
Aldershot, UK
Baron Kurtz said:
Interesting, Ben. That pic above looks just exactly like the CC41 Hepworths suit I got from Senator Jack and recently sold on to someone in Japan. Except the one above doesn't have the Hepworths label.

HepworthsCC41-3.jpg


bk
Click to expand...


It was almost identicaql Baron I think the pin was narrower though, although no label apart from the CC41 denoting the cloth (Obviously not an Austerity pattern suit!!)

As for the purpose, I would imagine it was style as much as anything else. Men did remove their jackets whilst at work, and this type of waistcoat would still look formal, stylish and elegant.

Kindest

Ben
 
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