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Double Breast button second row alteration

Luis

One of the Regulars
Messages
139
Location
Houston
If the roll of the lapel has enough material and the button is close enough already, can the suit be altered to have the second row button buttoned?

will pressing the lapels to their new home/location be sufficient? DB suit.jpg
 

Mathematicus

A-List Customer
Messages
379
Location
Coventry, UK
In most cases, I think it would be a mess. The roll of the lapel (i.e. the point in which the lapel turns and straightens) depends from the cut of the collar. If you want to alter the roll you'll likely need to alter also the collar, or it will be probably too long. I've never seen a coat after a collar alteration, but I think it's difficul and costly.

Just wondering, anyway; you may have luck.
 

Luis

One of the Regulars
Messages
139
Location
Houston
In most cases, I think it would be a mess. The roll of the lapel (i.e. the point in which the lapel turns and straightens) depends from the cut of the collar. If you want to alter the roll you'll likely need to alter also the collar, or it will be probably too long. I've never seen a coat after a collar alteration, but I think it's difficul and costly.

Just wondering, anyway; you may have luck.


Thanks! I thought it would be too much work. Was just wondering.

Any reason why some have button holes and some don't on the second row?
Era or just style of the jacket?
 

Mathematicus

A-List Customer
Messages
379
Location
Coventry, UK
Thanks! I thought it would be too much work. Was just wondering.

Any reason why some have button holes and some don't on the second row?
Era or just style of the jacket?
It's a style feature that was very popular during 80s and 90s. People sometimes used to button the last row in a 6x2 double breasted suit also in mid 40s, but note that in those cases the coat had the button hole on the second row. Coats with the so called 6x1 disposition, I think, are only seen in late 1980s and usually pair with extremely low button stance.
 

Guttersnipe

One Too Many
Messages
1,942
Location
San Francisco, CA
It's a style feature that was very popular during 80s and 90s. People sometimes used to button the last row in a 6x2 double breasted suit also in mid 40s, but note that in those cases the coat had the button hole on the second row. Coats with the so called 6x1 disposition, I think, are only seen in late 1980s and usually pair with extremely low button stance.

Wearing double breasted coats as 6-roll-1 or 4-roll-1 was considered very stylish in the 1930s. Apparel Arts illustrations from that period almost always depict DB coats being worn with long rolls. However, 6 x 1 coats also existed in the 1930s.

Note that no unused buttonhole is depicted on this 6 x 1:

331x640px-LL-0d14f52a_copyofx172dpsl8.jpeg


Here's a long-line roll on this 4 x 2:

900x900px-LL-94d316bb_Eskya5.jpg


But by far, the most common style was to wear a 6 x 2 with a long roll like this:

L._Fellows_Heya.jpg
 

Dirk Wainscotting

A-List Customer
Messages
354
Location
Irgendwo
It matters how much 'belly' is on the bottom of the lapel. If the lapel is cut with a lot of belly the front edge at that point bows out and raising the roll doesn't work. If the fronts are also properly canvassed etc, then there is also a taped roll line determining the length of the roll, making it difficult to manipulate.

If the fronts have a straighter edge at that point and the lapels are soft, there is some possibility. At that low point of the lapel the cut of the collar does not need to be manipulated at all.
 

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