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    Temporary Time Travel

    Oh, I know... I know exactly what you mean. Here's the best of my experiences. I was at the Biltmore Inn on Biltmore estate. (The largest private residence in America, built by George Vanderbilt, currently owned by his grandson...open for tours, definitely a must-see if you're in this part of...
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    Anatomy of a suit...

    wackyvorlon, as far as resorces for learning the trade, there are two ways to go about it, if you don't have an actual person to show you. The first is reading. "Classic Tailoring Techniques" by Roberto Cabrera is one of the best books that I've found. There are one or two small errors or...
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    Favorite dishes?

    Not that I'm aware of.... :o (duck and cover...duck and cover...)
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    Savile Row, in Cigar Aficionado

    Very true...and a good custom suit can be altered...far more than off the rack can be, usually. ;)
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    Favorite dishes?

    I think my favorite "dish" comes down to a choice between Kat, Magneto, and Decodoll.... or at least their avatars. :p (exit, stage left...outrunning the flying tomatoes)
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    Anatomy of a suit...

    herringbonekid, I've never seen a suit that had the canvas attached to the front darts, but I suppose it could be done...every tailor has their own way of doing things. That's why every bespoke suit is a unique creation. Even the flaws...and there will be "flaws", due to the handmade nature of...
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    Anatomy of a suit...

    You're right...they don't go all the way through the lapel, in most cases...and the underside of the stitch is very tiny...if you look closely at the underside of the lapel (on a suit that is made this way) you might see tiny pinpricks in staggered rows...those are the stitches. The body canvas...
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    AOL Users...

    New!! Improved!! That's right...the new and improved AOL. Now, not only with spam blocker and spyware stopper...but the new and improved AOL 'net blocker and web stopper. Just sign up for our free lifetime trial today and you too will never have to worry about all those annoying informative...
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    Savile Row, in Cigar Aficionado

    Depending on the fabric, it can indeed cost more...sometimes, a lot more. Check out fabric manufacturer Scabal's "Gold Treasure" line, for an example. Vicuna can cost more than $100 dollars a yard. I have no idea how much the "Gold Treasure" is, but it has pinstripes in 22 karat gold...I'm...
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    Anatomy of a suit...

    While working on something today, I realized I had a chance to get some pics of something most people never get to see. This might also answer the question I saw asked in another thread, of why bespoke tailoring costs so much. This is the lapel of a suit right after the padstitching and...
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    Vintage inspired...

    Thanks for all the compliments :) The patterns for those were both custom drafts, the same as any custom work. I did take the lapel shape from another pattern that I had seen, and adapted it to my own. The two are slightly different as my friend wanted the standard swallowtail cutaway in the...
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    J. Peterman Linen Safari Jacket

    Yes, yes, and...what the ****... Yes, those top pockets are definitely too small. Yes, it definitely needs a belt...or a belted back, maybe...hmmmm... And, my only comment on the vertical keyhole buttonholes on the front is...what was the guy at the factory smoking that day? That's just...
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    Vintage inspired...

    I haven't been around for a week or so...been kinda busy around here, funny how a new addition to the family will do that... :p Anyway, I thought I'd post a pic or two of one of the latest things to come out of my shop. Definitely vintage inspired, but a bit earlier than most of the vintage...
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    How to Pull Off a Look

    That depends on just how much "custom" you want...there are places on the 'net selling made to measure suits (or so they claim...I have some doubts) for around $300 US. See Hemingways post on his new suit for an example...from what I've seen, sometimes you get lucky with that (like he...
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    Golden Age careers

    Well...let's see... I would probably be just what I am now...a tailor. And seeing as how most of the equipment I currently use actually is from the golden era (or older) ...it wouldn't be that much different. lol Just as an example...the shears in my avatar pic are the ones I actually use...
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    Mr. Misanthropy's Evening Out

    Looks like you have a nice pool shark look going there...now you just need your own two piece stick and a hard case to carry it in lol Nice look, I sure would think twice about shooting a game with you :p
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    Leather repair

    Sounds like it was taken to an ordinary alterations shop where they didn't have much experience with leather items. Restitching the seams to match the original stitch holes is not that difficult a job if someone just takes the time to do it right. The vinyl replacements sound as though those...
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    Collars

    Are the shirts 100% cotton, or a cotton-poly blend? If it has any polyester in it, that could be the problem, especially if you send your shirts to the cleaners. I won't bore everyone with why that is, (it has to do with electrostatic charge...and reaction with dry cleaning fluid ) but it's...
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    The Paradox of the Well-Dressed Man

    Two outta three ain't bad... ;) (I'm married, with kids...you figure out which two lol ) But seriously, I agree....even trying to dress decently will get you too many odd looks these days...I've honestly been asked the question "What are you dressed up for?", when I was wearing nothing but a...
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    Collars

    I've made (and worn) several of the tunic style, bib front shirts...some with detachable collars. They are not uncomfortable at all, in my opinion. The secret is to make sure the collar fits, they came in different heights as well as neck sizes. The amount of starch is also key...you want...

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