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1950s Buco J24, 2nd Label - Size 44

Cheech

A-List Customer
Messages
326
Location
NC, US
Hello, everyone. I recently purchased this 2nd label Buco over on Yahoo Auctions. The ad specified that the sleeves were fairly short (23 inches shoulder seam straight down to the cuff), but I doubted the veracity of that and went ahead and bid. Unfortunately, I was wrong, and the sleeves are way too short for me. In my disgust (with myself, not the jacket), I immediately posted it on eBay (link here). Within hours, the intrepid members over on the Finds and Deals - Leather Jacket Edition thread saw the jacket, and a discussion ensued. Given the interest, I'm posting it here.

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Here's what I know, based largely on what I've learned on these forums: The 2nd Buco label, which this jacket sports, was implemented around 1948 and used up until about 1952. During this time, Buco exclusively used horsehide. Steerhide wasn't used until subsequent labels were introduced designating steer or horsehide. Towards the end of this 2nd label period, Buco introduced the nylon quilted lining that this jacket has. As you can see below, the portion rubbing against the back of the neck shows the worst wear.

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Elsewhere, the lining has a lot of loose threads, with less severe wear around the hem.

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The two rear map/handwarmer pockets (which designate this a J24 as opposed to a J23, I believe) are both lined in the red/black houndstooth wool featured in the J22. The front handwarmer pocket is lined in plaid wool.

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Pocket - Imgur.jpg


As I mention in the eBay ad, the leather is intact: There are no tears or dry rot. There’s typical scuffing and scratches. There is a small paint spot by the right collar. I haven't tried to remove it.

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Near the handwarmer pocket on the right, the leather is wrinkled and puckered in a way suggesting exposure to high heat. That said, the leather there is not dry or brittle, just denser and a bit stiffer than the surrounding leather.

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The main zipper will need to be replaced, as it doesn't stayed closed when zipped up. Also, the zipper on the D-pocket is missing it's ring pull. Otherwise, the remaining zippers and snaps are intact and work well.

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Cheech

A-List Customer
Messages
326
Location
NC, US
The measurements are as follows, and here is where things get interesting.
  • Chest (pit to pit): 23.25 inches
  • Sleeve length (shoulder seam straight down to cuff): 23 inches
  • Shoulder width (seam to seam straight across): 19 inches
  • Back length (collar seam to hem): 25 inches
  • Bottom opening width (along hem): 21 inches
Those sleeves that I mentioned before appear to be factory original, at least going by the zippers and stitching.

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Compare these to this 2nd label J24 that was posted on here a few years ago:

342d9ab5-4670-492b-9ab0-beafb9178f6f-jpeg.145758


Here ae some further photos of the measurements. I typically wear a 40 or 42 in Aero, Johnson Leathers, Simmons Bilt and a 44 in Flat Head, RMC. This jacket is large on me in the chest and waist but would have been a keeper if not for the sleeves (I'm 6'2", and 23-inch sleeves don't cut it).

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More photos are posted in the above eBay link. Of course, I'd be happy to sell to a Lounger. Typically, I'd sell for 10% off the eBay Buy It Now price, but I'm not exactly sure how that would work with an auction. If you're really interested, PM me and we can discuss. I'm not looking for a payday. Heck, I won't be surprised if I lose a few hundred. Serves me right for doubting the original ad. In any case, thanks for looking!
 

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Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,268
Gorgeous. I will send the link to some friends who the sizing would work for– however, in the mean time, a thought strikes me.

OP and Mister Five Star @Canuck Panda, wouldn’t this be an ideal jacket to lend to Shawn as a sample? He’d get to study/copy the original Buco pattern, and could make OP a properly sized copy in the Horween Vermont type hide, with the right sleeve length.

This kind of opportunity doesn’t come up often, which is why it jumps to mind here.
 

Gixxer11

New in Town
Messages
19
It'd fit me , I'm 5'8" 200lbs but wide , used to lift a lot , I take a 44-46 and some of my jackets are a little long in the arm . I've a early 90s 118 schott that fits like it was tailored! Hi from the UK
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,268
It'd fit me , I'm 5'8" 200lbs but wide , used to lift a lot , I take a 44-46 and some of my jackets are a little long in the arm . I've a early 90s 118 schott that fits like it was tailored! Hi from the UK

If you fit in a modern 44-46, this will not fit you. This is sized more like a 40 or 42 would be now.
 
Messages
10,977
Location
SoCal
Yes, and no.
Measure your chest and give yourself a couple of inches. A trim fit is 2 inches allowance. 3-4 inches for normal to layering.

I measure about 38in around the chest (under the pits), but my most wearable jackets usually measure 20.5- 21.5in pit to pit.
 
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Gixxer11

New in Town
Messages
19
I measure 47-48 right under the pits , but because I'm only 5'8" I can get into a 44 -46 , snug fit obviously!
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,268
I measure 47-48 right under the pits , but because I'm only 5'8" I can get into a 44 -46 , snug fit obviously!

This jacket is smaller than your body. You mention having a Schott Perfecto– this measures like a size 40 Perfecto.
 

Cheech

A-List Customer
Messages
326
Location
NC, US
FWIW, the pit-to-pit on the Buco jacket is the exact same as that on my custom Johnson Leathers size-42 cross-zip: 23 inches. The Johnson is boxy on me. It's thick chromexcel, so I can really feel the extra room on me, and my chest size is 41.5 inches. I can wear a thick hoodie underneath it for a snug fit.

Custom Johnson Cross-Zip (size 42)

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For me, my ideal fitting cross-zip is my size-44 Real McCoy's J-22. It measures about 22.25 inches pit to pit. I almost never wear sweaters or hoodies, so getting a snug fit over a button-up shirt--albeit thick Iron Heart button-ups--is exactly what I want. Hope that helps!

RMC J-22 (size 44)

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Cheech

A-List Customer
Messages
326
Location
NC, US
Bumping this. The eBay auction ended yesterday afternoon, and the buyer backed out this morning. $650 (PayPal FF) and it's yours, shipping included in the continental US.
 

TheBigEraser

One of the Regulars
Messages
215
Could you please post the photo of the back measurement? The sleeves and chest measurements look perfect for me
 

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