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Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by sepa, May 6, 2021.
This is my view as well. I probably could have just quoted this instead of writing a book.
Hi, as it was mostly too warm to wear those jackets during the summer I barely wore them, anyhow here is an update how it went so far:
I handed them over to a local leather tailor asking him to reduce the bottom hem of the EM and to narrow the shoulders and arms of the CR. No problem he said, it will take a week. So I was sweating blood for a week in hope they won’t be messed up on return….
…. They didn’t and as far as I can tell, he did a great job. To my untrained eyes there are no traces of the work done, and both jackets fit me now as I hoped. EM bottom hem changed from 19.5”to 17.5” and the shoulder of the CR changed from 18” to 16.75”.
The CR is still a bit big in the shoulder and upper chest area, but looks good I think and I have the option of layering. It is also a bit too long for my liking but not significally.
As many times already posted, the color variation of the cordovan hide is really amazing and not enough pics can be posted. Here are some in the sun out in the wild
The EM also fits me now and is not too wide anymore at the bottom hem.
The EM is tight in the chest area, It only fits me with a t-shirt. The action back is very useful with this tight fit.
The back view of the EM is flattering, it creates a very distinct V-shape
Here are some general observations about these jackets for newbies:
The EM with the lochcarron lining is significally warmer than the CR with the cotton sateen lining. But it’s also a bit scratchy on the neck especially when it’s warmer. I prefer the CR with the sateen lining with some space to layer.
I was a bit surprised how much these jackets smell! My GF doesn’t like the leather smell so I have to be careful to keep the closet closed and I’m not allowed to wear them while driving when she is in the car . I wonder how many couples have broken up already due to these jackets
In many posts the practicality of different jacket styles is argued. My recommendation is not to compromise about style for practicality. These are by far the least practical jackets I have ever owned. Stiff, not very warm when it’s cold, and hot when it’s warm. But still by far my most favorite jackets
Pattern, I would recommend to get in touch with the supplier and check if a given patter matches the body type before placing an order. I don’t have the wide shoulders for the CR, nor the extra with at the belt area to fill the EM. I think a board racer and premier range HB would have been better options for me.
Initially I expected to like the EM a lot and was not sure how much I will like the CR. This has changed totally. I really like the color of the cordovan and don’t think it’s too flashy and thus too limited. I also like the style and feel a lot. The EM is a beautiful checked with a classic look but somehow not my style, I like it more plain and there is too much going on with buckles, action back and half belt.
CXFQHH or CXFQHH?
There are a lot of discussions with different experiences with CXFQHH leather. The EM is showing why: the lather on the Arms is stiff and feels rough. The lather on the back panels is silky smooth and hard. On the side parts between front and back the leather is quite soft and very wrinkly. (this is the reasons why it’s a blue label jacket. The different patches are placed symmetrically and I kind of like it to see the different characters of this leather. Disregard the color variation, that’s just my camera)
I worry now that it also got me and this wasn’t the last order I placed on such jackets
Wow, your tailor did a great job. Both jackets look much better now, they look awesome. Congrats.
My recommendation would be not to compromise on patterns when buying a leather jacket. Great patterns make a jacket much more comfortable (and thus practical) to wear and vice versa. They make the weight of a jacket 'disappear' while allowing for easy movement.
Both look miles better after the tailoring! I have both these jackets myself and the same issues you had - too broad in the shoulders with excess leather in the upper back of the CR and too much flair in the hem of the EM despite a tight fit in the chest - though both my cases are not as extreme as yours and I don't (yet) feel the need to get them tailored, though that may change once they have broken in more. I think these are quite extreme patterns in that sense, and they are mirror images in that one is too loose in the top, the other in the bottom…I find other Aero patterns fit me much better, including the 30s HB, Prem Highwayman, Boardracer, Wayfarer and Slimfit MC. The EM and CR are “outside the bell curve” for me for different reasons and I would not go down those routes again after finding the better fitting patterns - though after seeing how much better yours look after retailoring I am tempted to try that option with mine!
great job on the fix, both looks much better as others have said! congrats!
Leather smell can be tempered by using a leather conditioner, at least that is my experience.
First off - I 100% agree that both these jackets look a lot better on you now. Nice work getting these tailored up as you have. And don't be worried about these not being your last two. I've been saying "This is my last one" for like ~ 15 years. Sure a lot better "addiction" than many others.
This: "I was a bit surprised how much these jackets smell! My GF doesn’t like the leather smell so I have to be careful to keep the closet closed and I’m not allowed to wear them while driving when she is in the car . I wonder how many couples have broken up already due to these jackets..."
The smell is a large part of the reason I love these jackets so much. Not to be rude here, but there may be reasons to move along, so to speak...(or just compromise as Tony says below)
Massive improvement. Bravo! I agree with Randy about the smell. I personally love it. My wife hates it, I also hate her stupid ass Peloton bike. Love is about compromise.
Wow! Great job of the tailor. Almost unbelievably good!
Everything you say about CXL HH is true for me too. I totally get what others find annyoing about it as compared to [insert favorite leather of choice]. Although I tend to wear lighter and more pliable hides in the warmer season I still find that nothing looks and ages like the heavy CXL stuff.
As for the smell: My wife´s the same. Wear the heck out of these beauties, and the smell will eventually go away or at least fade to an extent that your significant other can stand to be in the same room with the jacket (vitally important when in a hotel room, as the wife for sure wouldn´t want the jacket to be in the same wardrobe as her dresses...).
Your tailor is pretty awesome. Shoulder alteration is the one of the most difficult job and not everyone has the setup and skill to sew through CXL horsehides. You've just found a hidden gem.
The smell. CXL has beef fat in it I believe. That's why I love it. My wife is a sushi lover so she hates it. My theory is that the ladies love sushi not because it's fish but because it looks pretty and its low calories. But my heart is with any cuts of beef, my only reason for keeping my Costco membership.
Everyman jackets looks pretty awesome. Nice to see a good one in the wild.
Missed this thread first time around, so doubly nice to see it pop up again. I liked both the jackets as originally were, though the tailoring has definitely taken it up a notch (it's not an easy thing to find the right fit by post!).
I think this is the first Everyman I've seen in the wild - I like it very much.
The Aero Board Racer fits neater over the back fwiw - as long as you go with the standard design with a centre-seam. Allows the pattern to angle the panels, go closer the body. I'm not a fan of the virtually skintight fit myself, but a lot of folks do like these to fit over only a t-shirt at most.