AEF17
New in Town
- Messages
- 29
- Location
- Pennsylvania
Greetings to all.
I have perused this forum for quite some time, but this is the first posting and question that I have asked. I ask for your patience, as I know hope to eventually be able to become conversant with the optimal manner in which to post on here.
To begin, I recently purchased a full dress ensemble (evening tailcoat and trousers) that dates from March 1910. It's not bespoke; it was tailored by Hart Schaffner Marx, but the quality of it is quite impressive.
I don't think that it was worn very often, the only internal signs of age are around the area where the pit of the arms would have met the silk lining. The trousers are impeccable; even the outside brace-buttons are as new. Sorry about lack of photos, but they would be too large, size-wise, and I don't like taking upon huge amounts of space with pictures.
By the way, there have been a decent amount of antique evening tailcoat or evening dress suits offered lately. I've seen coats from 1894, 1901, 1903, 1913, and 1917 offered on eBay, most in impressive condition (many lack the trousers, though).
I have the following questions, any one of which, or in whatever combination thereof, I would appreciate some insight.
1. The cut of the tailcoat is such that it slopes down more in front than its modern kindred. Also it is a bit higher in regard to where it sits. Of course, one cannot expect the few contemporary manufacturers of full-backed waistcoats to bear this in mind. Thus, I had the waistcoat altered. The Philadelphia tailor did his very best, but of course the waistcoat cannot be so high as to expose the trouser button, and I'm not putting undue pressure on the 100 year old brace-buttons just for the sake of a high waist. Thus, when all is in place, there is a minute area of waistcoat that shows (about 1/4 inch, if that) where the tails begin. I know there is not supposed to be any, but that 1/2 inch is permissible. I'm not wearing this to a gathering of the 400, but I do have a concern as to this. If I could ever find a 100 year-old waistcoat, I'm sure the problem would be obviated, but that would be about impossible.
2. There is a minute amount of fading along the shoulder area--as though it followed where a hanger no doubt held the garment for many years. I only notice it in certain lighting. Should this be a concern, or is there a certain amount of aging that should be expected for something over 100 years old?
For that matter, is there any "upper limit" to how long antique garments can be worn? I do WW I re-enacting, and have a perfectly wearable uniform as well as officer overcoats (warmest thing ever!) that are really just as good as new. For civilian clothing, when is it "beyond the pale" to wear garments? 110 years? 120? I'm pushing it with something 101, but it's sturdier than 99.98% of what is made now.
3. A lambskin glove question. I'm a half-size, and when I bought the size lower, my hands almost burst the seams, and it was almost painful attempting to get the gloves on. The next size higher, and the gloves fit fine, but I think they are larger than the "second skin" that formal gloves are supposed to be. What appearance am I to look for? No wrinkles or creases at all when they are on my hands, or a slight bit of room allowed for such? I can't see how perfection can be achieved unless I have them custom-made, and again, there is no reason for that with the type of affair this is being worn to. Perhaps some day...
Thank you for any assistance that you can give. If I can manage to reduce the size of photos and find decent lighting without going to the water closet (embarrasing, but well-lit) to snap the pictures, I will try.
I have perused this forum for quite some time, but this is the first posting and question that I have asked. I ask for your patience, as I know hope to eventually be able to become conversant with the optimal manner in which to post on here.
To begin, I recently purchased a full dress ensemble (evening tailcoat and trousers) that dates from March 1910. It's not bespoke; it was tailored by Hart Schaffner Marx, but the quality of it is quite impressive.
I don't think that it was worn very often, the only internal signs of age are around the area where the pit of the arms would have met the silk lining. The trousers are impeccable; even the outside brace-buttons are as new. Sorry about lack of photos, but they would be too large, size-wise, and I don't like taking upon huge amounts of space with pictures.
By the way, there have been a decent amount of antique evening tailcoat or evening dress suits offered lately. I've seen coats from 1894, 1901, 1903, 1913, and 1917 offered on eBay, most in impressive condition (many lack the trousers, though).
I have the following questions, any one of which, or in whatever combination thereof, I would appreciate some insight.
1. The cut of the tailcoat is such that it slopes down more in front than its modern kindred. Also it is a bit higher in regard to where it sits. Of course, one cannot expect the few contemporary manufacturers of full-backed waistcoats to bear this in mind. Thus, I had the waistcoat altered. The Philadelphia tailor did his very best, but of course the waistcoat cannot be so high as to expose the trouser button, and I'm not putting undue pressure on the 100 year old brace-buttons just for the sake of a high waist. Thus, when all is in place, there is a minute area of waistcoat that shows (about 1/4 inch, if that) where the tails begin. I know there is not supposed to be any, but that 1/2 inch is permissible. I'm not wearing this to a gathering of the 400, but I do have a concern as to this. If I could ever find a 100 year-old waistcoat, I'm sure the problem would be obviated, but that would be about impossible.
2. There is a minute amount of fading along the shoulder area--as though it followed where a hanger no doubt held the garment for many years. I only notice it in certain lighting. Should this be a concern, or is there a certain amount of aging that should be expected for something over 100 years old?
For that matter, is there any "upper limit" to how long antique garments can be worn? I do WW I re-enacting, and have a perfectly wearable uniform as well as officer overcoats (warmest thing ever!) that are really just as good as new. For civilian clothing, when is it "beyond the pale" to wear garments? 110 years? 120? I'm pushing it with something 101, but it's sturdier than 99.98% of what is made now.
3. A lambskin glove question. I'm a half-size, and when I bought the size lower, my hands almost burst the seams, and it was almost painful attempting to get the gloves on. The next size higher, and the gloves fit fine, but I think they are larger than the "second skin" that formal gloves are supposed to be. What appearance am I to look for? No wrinkles or creases at all when they are on my hands, or a slight bit of room allowed for such? I can't see how perfection can be achieved unless I have them custom-made, and again, there is no reason for that with the type of affair this is being worn to. Perhaps some day...
Thank you for any assistance that you can give. If I can manage to reduce the size of photos and find decent lighting without going to the water closet (embarrasing, but well-lit) to snap the pictures, I will try.
