Any full made to measure jacket makers?

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by jay_cali, Apr 17, 2019.

  1. jay_cali

    jay_cali New in Town

    Messages:
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    Location:
    california
    Yes for a custom jacket, plus need to consider tolerance limit too.
    Wanted to go for Aero, but their stock jackets wont fit as expected.
    So for now Johnson leather is the first option, Simmons bilt custom MTM second.
     
  2. Psant25

    Psant25 A-List Customer

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    Agree on the shoulder. The aero premier highwaymans had to be sold due to shoulders being too tight and that was pretty much it
     
  3. zebedee

    zebedee Practically Family

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    Location:
    Bristol, UK
    Half an inch in any dimension will make little to no difference at all, and definitely won't matter across the shoulders. In a suit, quite probably, but leather jackets aren't precision-dependent in the same way fit-wise. Even Aeros that felt a little tight across the shoulders at first have given over time.

    Of course, this is just my view- I don't like tight fits in leather jackets, prefer Highwayman or 50s style to cafe racer/moto jackets, etc., and actually like the Stockman fitting as it's supposed to.
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2019
  4. Rosecitymike

    Rosecitymike One of the Regulars

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    109
    This should be repeated—how the arm ties in is extremely important. I have jackets that are 2” different in the shoulder measurement and both fit very well. As you can imagine, sleeve length is also different, though they end at virtually the same place on my arm. Like Italian vs English sport coat tailoring, in general. I took measurements of various jackets when ordering through Dave Himel and I still keep those in my phone for reference when looking at eBay for comparison.
     
    Monitor likes this.
  5. jay_cali

    jay_cali New in Town

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    Location:
    california
    @Rosecitymike Can you please post fitpics of both. I am curious how 2" difference in shoulders fits the same ignoring the sleeve length part.
     
  6. navetsea

    navetsea Call Me a Cab

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    East Java
    I'm no tailor but I imagine if the neck drop to shoulder is prominent ( has triangular looking from neck opening to shoulder) like on some CR/ BR type, then a bit longer on the shoulder that drop a little more to the sleeve won't make a big deal, but if the pattern has a more square looking shoulder (more horizontal flat look across the shoulder) then if the shoulder is too wide it will stick out or eventually droop but leaving a lot more unwanted creases near the shoulder and upper sleeve around the underarm, in some style like perhaps bomber jackets or denim jackets it might look passable, but on more cleaner looking style it might look like a poor fit.
    some of my jacket have 46cm shoulder to shoulder seam it has an edge on the shoulder look as the very edge of the seam is never creased, but 42cm also fit on me but they will have a rounded shoulder, off shoulder look (wider than 46cm in my case) doesn't work on me because I have stick for arms it will bunches unnaturally on me, but a lot of people with bigger arm and more meat around their shoulder can pull that off with denim jacket that have shoulder seam wider than their size.
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2019
  7. Rosecitymike

    Rosecitymike One of the Regulars

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    109
    A77F3BDE-D7F7-4E8E-AE8E-1203D87D73B5.jpeg 9E9B9DD2-F542-4D30-9685-5A5057B3574C.jpeg

    The top jacket has a shoulder if 19” and the bottom 21”. Both are off the rack jackets, 58 IT (top) and 48 US (bottom). There is a photo in the What Jacket Are You Wearing Today? thread in my Aero Board racer, which is a 46 and that has an 18” shoulder!


     
  8. Psant25

    Psant25 A-List Customer

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    415
    EA0BC194-08AD-4A23-B3C9-1A835133E32C.jpeg A73D6270-DA03-4E31-9CBF-0B5A8F24D8A9.jpeg I am a big JL fan. Here is one of my custom jackets from him. One Issue i find with his jackets is a short back length for stock compared to front. They make a lower extended back version but that was too much. I asked him to add a lower back panel that is curved and dipped 1 inch like a schott 613. I provided a pic. He can pretty much do anything you want. This was naked brown cow 3.5. Total price 750 with a bunch of mods. Based on his m200
     
  9. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

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  10. jonbuilder

    jonbuilder Practically Family

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    Location:
    Redwood City, CA
    I like your Johnson clean lines
     
  11. Peacoat

    Peacoat I'll Lock Up

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    @El Marro's method for the shoulder measurement is objective and gives a point to point reference for the measurement. I don't have to worry about the shoulder measurement as a size 40 or 42 fits me in the chest and the shoulders. If you guys were proportionately perfect, as I am, you wouldn't need to worry about it either.
     
    ProteinNerd, El Marro and bn1966 like this.
  12. jay_cali

    jay_cali New in Town

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    Location:
    california
    Hi All,

    I visited Alan today and the first thing I asked him is how he measured shoulders.
    He prefers measuring one seam to seam to another over the nape compared to seam to seam straight as jacket design may be diff.

    Surprisingly his stock 40 Buco j100 3.5oz cowhide was exactly my size in p2p, waist shoulders.

    Ended up ordering in Horween horsehide 2.75oz. Shoulder 19"(seam to seam direct), p2p 21.5 , waist 20, sleeves 26, lenght 25.5 stock size rather than MTM . He advised not to go tight on waist else jacket will ride up whenever I sit.

    Only con is zipper and lining options are limited. He had only talon in nickel (i was looking for riri) and black/brown lining . Another option is to provide your own hardware/lining to him.

    Here are the fit pics.
    IMG_8879.jpg

    IMG_8880.jpg
     
  13. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

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    5,797
    Location:
    SoCal
    Riri zippers are easy to find
     
  14. jay_cali

    jay_cali New in Town

    Messages:
    49
    Location:
    california
    Thanks for the reply. Are they any better? I am a newbie so not sure. As per Alan it's all the same since I am going use the jacket for casual use.

    He claims his Talon zippers are US made which he bought in bulk when they closed US operations and moved to mexico/china.
     
  15. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    5,797
    Location:
    SoCal
    I think Talons are great if they are US made. I would want a #8 if possible for the main zip. My jackets have #5 which are vintage size, but some think they are too small.
     
  16. jacketjunkie

    jacketjunkie One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,648
    Location:
    Germany
    I'd trust Alan with this. I own three of his jackets, two of them with standard stock zippers and they both haven't failed me once in the past 5 years. Glad to see you are happy with his offering. They really do great work at JL.
     
  17. Peacoat

    Peacoat I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    4,543
    Location:
    Middle Tennessee
    Alan lost most of his zipper inventory in the fire. When he replaced the faulty zip on my Highwayman, he said that jacket needed a #10 and that's what he put on it. I believe that's what he uses on all of his jackets. Not sure if he will go smaller on request. His seamstress matched the holes perfectly, and I can't tell the zipper was replaced. It now works the way it should have from the beginning, and is a pleasure to wear.
     
  18. Psant25

    Psant25 A-List Customer

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    Looks great man good choice!
     
  19. ProteinNerd

    ProteinNerd My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    Location:
    Sydney
    Nice fit but did you add any body length? Looks a touch short on you for a J-100 to me although perfect length for a more modern cafe racer style. Depends what style you are going for I guess, can't really lose either way.
     
  20. jay_cali

    jay_cali New in Town

    Messages:
    49
    Location:
    california
    Hi, Yes . Stock is 23.5, Mine will be ~25.75 . I requested him to aim 25.5+ , 26 will be lil longer on back.
    Sleeves on stock are ~25, Mine will be 26. The zipped sleeves ends above wrist(not seen in pic because hands are not straight), i wanted it lil below wrists. Plus clean back with no yoke.

    Good thing is he recommends length too based on style you want casual vs biker.
     
    ProteinNerd likes this.

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