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Anyone know much about the J. Crew Millerain Field Jacket? (For motorcycle riding)

CLShaeffer

New in Town
Messages
39
Location
Hawaii
First post. I was certain my first post would have been in the Adventure Gear or one of the Safari Jacket threads... but this came up first. :)

http://www.jcrew.com/AST/Browse/Men...egory/outerwear/cotton/PRDOVR~96051/96051.jsp

Anyone heard about this jacket? I'm ~thinking~ of replacing a very world weary 60's Belstaff Trailmaster with one. For motorcycle riding here in Hawaii. I know the oilcloth is too thick for general wear here in the tropics but I've found it to be the best material for the hot-sun-to-heavy-rain-and-back-to-hot-sun riding that one gets used to here.

The oilcloth breathes better than modern cordura riding jackets and is more water resistant. Tough as nails, too, though I'm not specifically familiar with the Millerain cloth. And looks WAY better. :D Then I get to wear it when I travel to the mainland.

What's the scoop on J. Crew's general durability these days? Is this likely to be more a fashion jacket or a fairly functional item?

And if anyone has first hand experience with either this very jacket or Millerain cloth in general, I'm curious how heavy it is. I'm looking for what passes for light- to mid-weight for an oilcloth garment. I'd call the vintage trailmaster a mid to heavy jacket- partly because of its stout cotton lining.

I hate to think about giving up on the vintage Belstaff, but it really has seen its day. A few holes, age stressed seams and a dead zipper... 10 minutes of a good rain at 50mph and I'm wet. I've done my best to restore it short of replacing the zipper and at this point it basically works well enough for me to want a newer jacket of similar cloth. Its a good compromise for riding in quickly changing tropical conditions.

Thanks. Aloha,
Chris
 

captaincaveman1

A-List Customer
Messages
361
Location
--------------------------------
Sharp looking jacket. That's a good price compared to what Belstaff is asking nowadays...

You sure you want to put your hide in the hands of J Crew tho? I'd feel safer in gear specifically made for moto riding. Let's face it, this is really a fashion jacket - and there isn't anything wrong with that. I just think it falls short of being real protective gear is all.
 

CLShaeffer

New in Town
Messages
39
Location
Hawaii
I know what you're saying, capt, and I've asked myself the same thing almost every time I get on the bike without leather on - including when I'm wearing the Belstaff. The trailmaster is sturdy but it was never designed for a serious fall, either.

Here in the tropics, though, overheating is a persistent threat.

I almost stopped riding because there is no way to both be well protected in the event of a fall and anything remotely resembling comfortable. Any kind of protective gear at all just gets too hot fast.

So I figure protecting myself well form the elements is the best I can do in terms of safety: the more comfortable and alert I am, the less distracted I'll be, the better able to make safe decisions I'll be. [huh] Not ideal (at all), but its either that or not ride. My leathers are just too hot to wear- heat exhaustion, dehydration, etc. become the main dangers.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
24,804
Location
London, UK
TBH, I wouldn't bother with Belstaff now that they've been bought out and turned into a fashion house.... I don't know that the quality of the jackets has suffered quite as much as some would have you believe, but certainly the prices have, imo, become rather over-inflated for what they are. The Barbour International (which, prominent logo aside, stays truer to its vintage design by retaining the slanted left breast pocket, long since dropped by Belstaff) is in the region of GBP100 cheaper, and just as good. I got a great deal on one a couple of years ago - mine is actually the slimmer International Trials model - difference being it is slimmer cut than the standard, not designed to take a Winter liner. It does have a double end opening zip, which the standard doesn't. By far the best value, in my opinion, at present is the Australian take on this design, the Kakadu Nelson:

4J42Nelson.gif


Available on many websites, including http://www.kakaduimports.com/Nelson_Jacket_p/4j42.htm at USD109.95

A few folks on the Lounge have bought these and have been well pleased with them. I was right about to take a punt on one a couple of years ago when I chanced across my Barbour on eBay for the same price (a new one someone had bought, found too small, and never got around to returning). Couple of months ago, I was looking for a jacket for dad for his birthday, and not being able to afford a Barbour for him, I took a chance on the Kakadu. We'll see how it wears over time, I suppose, but on initial impressions there is nothing to separate it from the Barbour on quality. There is available, I gather, a Winter liner for it (though it sounds like you won't need that!), and it does have the double ended zip. Superb jacket, whole heartedly recommend one. Black is the standard colour; some places offer it in brown, others also have the Java:

4JW42-Front-Small.gif


The Java is listed as if a separate model, though it seems to me to be the same jacket (or as near as) in a different colour. [huh]
 

Dave E

One of the Regulars
Messages
273
Location
Buckingham, UK
That Kakadu looks like a good buy. I've been tempted by something in this style for a while and had thought I'd probably go with the Barbour (the Belstaff is just too damned expensive).
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
24,804
Location
London, UK
Dave E said:
That Kakadu looks like a good buy. I've been tempted by something in this style for a while and had thought I'd probably go with the Barbour (the Belstaff is just too damned expensive).

Even a used Belstaff sells for far more than I'd consider worth it these days, tbh... The Kakadu was definitely a good move. I'm tempted by the Java, myself...

Just twigged to the difference between the Nelson and the Java (aside from colour): the Java's windflap and lower pockets are stud fastening; on the Nelson it's velcro. The Java looks to be a more "vintage" version, if you want to see it that way... though it doesn't come in black. Otherwise, though, no difference I can see (unless the Java doesn't have the double ended zip, which could be the case).
 

CLShaeffer

New in Town
Messages
39
Location
Hawaii
Ah, I had forgotten about the Kakadu Nelson. Good call. I was looking at it around the same time I scored the 60's Belstaff on ebay (with the pants!) for $40. If I had found the Nelson in brown I might have done that instead, though.
Black here in the tropics is just silly.

Now that Java jacket would be perfect. Thanks for mentioning it! If I can't get my old Belstaff back into acceptable condition I'll have to keep an eye out for one. They don't seem all that common here in the States.
 

Nighthawk

One of the Regulars
Messages
257
Location
USA
J. Crew seems to be one of the only major retailers that for the most part does vintage right.

NH
 

normanf

One of the Regulars
Messages
156
Location
Salida
Peregrine has a sharp-looking motorcycle inspired jacket for far less than Barbour and Belfstaff:

I have had my eye on the G-Summit Jacket:

G_summit.jpg


Then there's there TT Jacket:

mens_tt.jpg


You can't really go wrong with the look! ;-)
 

normanf

One of the Regulars
Messages
156
Location
Salida
Not only J. Crew. When it comes to the field jacket, Shootrite offers a modern interpretation of the classic M-43 field jacket issued to US troops during World War II for a song:


502sh_00.jpg


Quite striking with modern materials. The J Crew Fatigue Jacket is modeled after field jackets issued to the Canadian Forces.
 

normanf

One of the Regulars
Messages
156
Location
Salida
Good moto and military jackets have lots of pockets to store stuff. That what makes them functional as well as looking cool.
 

captaincaveman1

A-List Customer
Messages
361
Location
--------------------------------
Dave E said:
That Kakadu looks like a good buy. I've been tempted by something in this style for a while and had thought I'd probably go with the Barbour (the Belstaff is just too damned expensive).
Kakadu makes some quality stuff. Very heavy, almost leather-like oil skin. Be careful... the Nelson I once I owned fit quite big. Hard to return it back to Australia so had to sell it on the bay.
 

captaincaveman1

A-List Customer
Messages
361
Location
--------------------------------
So you really want to stay cool in tropical heat? My friend, oilskin is not the optimal material IMO. Try mesh or perforated leather - preferably in a lighter color? Mesh really works best at keeping you cool and the better brands offer decent crash protection especially when purchased w/ integrated armor. Something to consider...


CLShaeffer said:
I know what you're saying, capt, and I've asked myself the same thing almost every time I get on the bike without leather on - including when I'm wearing the Belstaff. The trailmaster is sturdy but it was never designed for a serious fall, either.

Here in the tropics, though, overheating is a persistent threat.

I almost stopped riding because there is no way to both be well protected in the event of a fall and anything remotely resembling comfortable. Any kind of protective gear at all just gets too hot fast.

So I figure protecting myself well form the elements is the best I can do in terms of safety: the more comfortable and alert I am, the less distracted I'll be, the better able to make safe decisions I'll be. [huh] Not ideal (at all), but its either that or not ride. My leathers are just too hot to wear- heat exhaustion, dehydration, etc. become the main dangers.
 

CLShaeffer

New in Town
Messages
39
Location
Hawaii
Thanks, capt. I know where you're coming from.

In the Bay Area on the mainland I had a mesh jacket with integrated body armor. Along with great protection the body armor is a fantastic insulator. [huh] I thought it would be cooler than my leather jacket but it was way worse. Fine if you were moving and had the vents open, but when you stopped (which was often in Bay Area traffic) the body armor would settle on your body like an oven. I went back to the leather.

I've never tried perforated leather. If there was something perforated that was not black and at least somewhat vintage I'd be more tempted to try it. I still get the feeling that it'll be too hot, though. And I'll have the same issues with rain: either wear rain gear and bake or get wet.

(Not that getting wet is a huge deal - I just tend to use the bike for commuting to jobs and it would be nice to arrive more or less composed and professional.)

I know there is no ideal jacket for riding (or anything else) in all conditions. So far the vintage oilskin Belstaff has been the best tropical jacket I could imagine- except that it may be too vintage for use in heavy rain anymore. It does very well with everything except the heavy rains.

The Peregrin jackets look great, too. Nice to know there are a few more choices out there than I knew about. If there were a Nelson in brown I'd be tempted to buy it today. If I could find a Java Jacket in stock at a US supplier I'd be tempted, as well.
 

TheSnark

One of the Regulars
Messages
124
Location
S. Arizona, US
You may want to consider a deerskin jacket: lightweight, light color, very breathable... by far to most comfortable leather for hot weather (and rain won't hurt it). Certainly not as much protection as cowhide or horse, but at least as much as a safari jacket, assuming the seams are well sewn. You may want to talk to Alan at Johnson Leathers

http://www.johnsonleather.com

or someone at Uber Tanning

http://uberleather.com/mens_jackets.html

Uber Tanning has heavier and better quality hides (oddly enough) and are somewhat more water resistant, but Johnson has more experience with MC jackets. I have a deerskin jacket from each, and wear them all the time in 105+ heat (and the occasional monsoon storm).

You don't often see deerskin mentioned, except for gloves and pure fashion items (usually womens jackets), but it does have a niche where other hides just aren't suitable. Worth considering, imo...
 

CLShaeffer

New in Town
Messages
39
Location
Hawaii
Wow, I had never thought of deer or elk for a MC jacket. Not a bad idea, that. I've worked with both deer and elk hide. Y'know, elk is pretty tough stuff for all that its soft. It would make a fantastic lightweight MC jacket for hot weather riding.

Way out of my price range, but not a bad idea at all. Thanks for the suggestion.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
24,804
Location
London, UK
CLShaeffer said:
Now that Java jacket would be perfect. Thanks for mentioning it! If I can't get my old Belstaff back into acceptable condition I'll have to keep an eye out for one. They don't seem all that common here in the States.

I don't know how widely stocked they are in shops, though if you Google there are dozens of US based online businesses selling them, all in and around the same price (some offer free shipping, though not sure if that's only to the CUS). The brown Nelson seems to be the rare beast, but all of them seem to carry the Java.

normanf said:
Peregrine has a sharp-looking motorcycle inspired jacket for far less than Barbour and Belfstaff:

I have had my eye on the G-Summit Jacket:

G_summit.jpg

Nice. A beltless jacket can be a grand design to have if you end up wearing it open a lot - no trailing belt to get in the way then.

Then there's there TT Jacket:

mens_tt.jpg


You can't really go wrong with the look! ;-)

Now, this I really like. I've long fancied the idea of a vintage-looking, short wax cotton MC jacket for travelling. I can see the practical limitations if one eschews the trousers, but still, for getting caught in heavy rain in Beijing in May, that would be a great thing to have to hand.
 

Graemsay

Practically Family
Messages
991
Location
Melbourne
If you're after a Belstaff jacket then check out the motorcycle rather than the fashion range.

The bike ones feel better made and are generally cheaper to boot. I wouldn't want to trust my skin to any of their fashion range, as they feel pretty flimsy.

That said, waxed cotton is doesn't have a lot of abrasion resistance. Even something like a pair of Draggin Jeans (kevlar lined) isn't great.

On the light leather front, take a look at Kangaroo. It's generally thinner than cowhide, and very tough. Most of the racers use it for their suits.
 

pipvh

Practically Family
Messages
644
Location
England
You could also find an original Trialmaster on ebay for surprisingly little money. I bought myself a deadstock Sammy Miller with tags for the price I paid for my brand-new Barbour International. They're out there - some people have an insanely inflated idea of what to charge for them, mind you.
 

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