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Backside Tailoring - What was popular and where?

Seth Byrnes

One of the Regulars
Messages
146
Location
US / Canada
Important question for the room today;

What kind of cross-section do we see in the tailoring choices of belted suit backs made in europe in the 1930s?
Photographic references would be appreciated but not necessary, remarks and observations very welcome.

The context for the question is that I am having a suit made, and I am interested in making it useful for re-enactment purposes.
The events I frequent range from the early-mid 30s to the wars end.

I have the option of just about any tailoring I choose and I am partial to belted and pleated backs, but with all of the different styles that are possible within that category I wonder what is appropriate for European civilian impressions of the time.

Thanks in advance for any insight!
 

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Wolf99

New in Town
Messages
27
Location
UK
Important question for the room today;

What kind of cross-section do we see in the tailoring choices of belted suit backs made in europe in the 1930s?
Photographic references would be appreciated but not necessary, remarks and observations very welcome.

The context for the question is that I am having a suit made, and I am interested in making it useful for re-enactment purposes.
The events I frequent range from the early-mid 30s to the wars end.

I have the option of just about any tailoring I choose and I am partial to belted and pleated backs, but with all of the different styles that are possible within that category I wonder what is appropriate for European civilian impressions of the time.

Thanks in advance for any insight!
Instead of posting a lengthy reply, can I direct you to this fantastic post about belt back jackets (taking in various varieties of acfion backs and pleated backed jackets) form the British film industry in the 30s through to the 50s (mainly).

it is well illustrated and should provde you with what you are interested in:
https://rankandfile1.blogspot.com/2014/

i think the original author might be a member here too.
 

GHT

Messages
10,080
Location
New Forest
Important question for the room today;

What kind of cross-section do we see in the tailoring choices of belted suit backs made in europe in the 1930s?
Photographic references would be appreciated but not necessary, remarks and observations very welcome.
The photos that you have posted are of a plain, single colour type. I would suggest that you stay with that choice. Let me show you why I suggest that.

mens 1930's.jpg

Like you, I was struck with the pleated back with a half belt. Explaining it to my tailor, I took this photo along when I was measured up. The tailor was quite taken with the style and reassurred me that such a 'look' could easily be replicated.
My mistake was to choose a multi-coloured striped fabric. Here's why it was a mistake.
new blazer & trousers 006.JPG

The finished blazer looks every part of the era that it comes from but turn it around.

Christchurch 2025 004.JPG

The only way that you can see the pleats is like this:

Christchurch 2025 005.JPG

The blazer is still a favourite but if ever I have another made in a similar style it will be in one solid colour.
 

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