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Best material for hot climate

Kilgour

New in Town
Messages
1
Hello all,

I intend to have a couple of bespoke suits built by a tailor for a stay in Colombo, where the equatorial weather is extremely hot and heavy.

First, to evaluate the work of the tailor, I'm having a pair of trousers built, in classic traditional style: high waist, double pleated, ample leg. I want to see if he can pull it off with a test item.

I'd like white, but I have questions:
- what material? 100% wool? Merino / Batavia / cashmere? Loro Piana is available here. A blend?
- what grammage? 270? Less? To get proper drape while keeping it light enough for hot weather.
- how to avoid see-through with white? Increase grammage? Or use special lining? Which material for the lining?

Here's a perfect example of high-waist, pleated white pants for hot weather, with proper drape and no see-thru:
A-Casual-Day-for-Cary-Grant-900x675.jpg
 

GHT

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,819
Location
New Forest
Cotton is a classic choice for hot weather. Its breathability and sweat absorbing properties make it perfect for promoting air circulation and keeping you cool. Additionally, cotton feels soft against the skin, providing maximum comfort throughout the day.
You can avoid any transparency simply by having the trousers lined. For a stronger cotton, look up cotton twill and cotton duck. Both are firmer and neither are transparent.
 
Messages
10,868
Location
vancouver, canada
Hello all,

I intend to have a couple of bespoke suits built by a tailor for a stay in Colombo, where the equatorial weather is extremely hot and heavy.

First, to evaluate the work of the tailor, I'm having a pair of trousers built, in classic traditional style: high waist, double pleated, ample leg. I want to see if he can pull it off with a test item.

I'd like white, but I have questions:
- what material? 100% wool? Merino / Batavia / cashmere? Loro Piana is available here. A blend?
- what grammage? 270? Less? To get proper drape while keeping it light enough for hot weather.
- how to avoid see-through with white? Increase grammage? Or use special lining? Which material for the lining?

Here's a perfect example of high-waist, pleated white pants for hot weather, with proper drape and no see-thru:
View attachment 644936
I am surprised that linen does not appear as one of your choices. Find a high quality laundered linen and have a suit made....a hot climate wardrobe needs to include at least one linen suit.
 

jchance

A-List Customer
Messages
341
Location
Los Angeles
Linen is TCR, usually in ecru color.

Cotton in large weave (think Oxford cloth) could work, but that’s thicker and heavier in comparison.
 

GHT

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,819
Location
New Forest
I am surprised that linen does not appear as one of your choices. Find a high quality laundered linen and have a suit made....a hot climate wardrobe needs to include at least one linen suit.
If you choose linen make sure it's mixed. Pure linen crumples very quickly as I discovered when I had a pure linen suit made. After thirty minutes it looked like I had slept in it.
 
Messages
10,868
Location
vancouver, canada
If you choose linen make sure it's mixed. Pure linen crumples very quickly as I discovered when I had a pure linen suit made. After thirty minutes it looked like I had slept in it.
I think that is part of the charm of linen......the crumpled look and tropical climes just seem to go together. The linen needs to have substance. I buy a top quality laundered linen that has a degree of heft but is buttery soft.
 

GHT

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,819
Location
New Forest
I think that is part of the charm of linen......the crumpled look and tropical climes just seem to go together. The linen needs to have substance. I buy a top quality laundered linen that has a degree of heft but is buttery soft.
wedding.jpg
This is my pure linen suit, made specifically for the Hawaiian themed wedding we went to. The collar and tie were only on during the wedding vow formalities, after that the Aloha shirt went on.

My tailor all but pleaded with me to use a linen mixed with something stronger. I didn't listen, paid top dollar for the finest linen. You mention the crumpled look, check out the top of both legs of my trousers and check also the top of each jacket sleeve.

That suit has been asleep in it's dust cover, in my wardrobe ever since that wedding, it's just too expensive to donate. A costly error for not listening to the tailor's wise advice.
 
Messages
10,868
Location
vancouver, canada
View attachment 645092
This is my pure linen suit, made specifically for the Hawaiian themed wedding we went to. The collar and tie were only on during the wedding vow formalities, after that the Aloha shirt went on.

My tailor all but pleaded with me to use a linen mixed with something stronger. I didn't listen, paid top dollar for the finest linen. You mention the crumpled look, check out the top of both legs of my trousers and check also the top of each jacket sleeve.

That suit has been asleep in it's dust cover, in my wardrobe ever since that wedding, it's just too expensive to donate. A costly error for not listening to the tailor's wise advice.
For me, I quite like the rumpled look of linen. To me, it is how it is supposed to look.
 

Cuvier

One of the Regulars
Messages
207
Location
Texas
I vote linen or cotton. If you can get a tropical weight wool those are comfortable as well.
I have a linen suit but hesitate to wear it. I also have a seersucker suit that is extremely comfortable. It's got texture but that's part of the look. You can get solids in seersucker that look great as well.
 

CufflinkConnoisseur

New in Town
Messages
2
oh, and in case you are not already aware, in really hot weather, wearing braces/suspenders makes a big difference to comfort. The pants/trousers can be cut a little looser so that they 'float' next to your body, allowing warm air to escape, rather than being cinched down by a belt. You could speak to your tailor about this option.
 

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