Better fit

[Matt Deckard]

This month's ESQUIRE magazine has a little section on "How to get a great suit", or some such title. It shows a photo diagram of a suit, with arrows pointing to certain parts of it. One arrow points toward the armhole. The caption says that this year's suits will have higher armholes and narrower sleeves.

Paging Matt Deckard -- your ship has come in!

They said the same thing last year... apparently their idea of higher armholes is different than mine. They also need to cut the armholes in the correct shape... hooking under the armpit from the back and not from the front.

 

[Senator Jack]

Well, continuing on with the armholes, I'm in a bit of a jam. I bought the Magnoli Goldfinger suit and while Magnoli did a great job with it, the tailor, unfortunately, cut it wrong. They gave me the modern low armholes, and after a lot of consideration I decided to send it back to Bangkok for recutting. My problem is that Indy is away till February and I'm now dealing with the tailor directly.

I want to be sure to get the tailor the right measurments for armhole cut. Any suggestions? I've taken the circumference of my shoulder, and the inseam sleeve measurement too, and of course, the pit-to-pit, but how does one clearly get across the idea of raising the whole thing up a bit?

Thanks and kind regards,

Senator Jack

 

[Matt Deckard]

That is a conundrum.

If you can find a bespoke tailor locally that takes armhole measurements you are in luck... other than that I'll do some research on how to best take an armhole measurement.

If the Bangkok tailor uses ratios instead of a real armhole measurement (using a ratio I hear is what just about all tailors do now, including bespoke) you may be out of luck because they may not understand how to impliment an armhole measurement.

Jorge Avalos in Long Beach knows how to do the armhole measurements correctly and I will get you his contact information shortly.

He made this suit for me... it was very comfortable, though to me was a bit zoot suit--ish. I wore it all the time though I now have lost too much weight for it to be altered. To me the vest was too high to the collar and the jacket too long (though at the time I was trying to cover a very large rear) I think I may try him again now that some of the kinks are worked out and some of the weight has been lost.
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=537&highlight=avalos

He makes the most comfortable and most flattering custom trousers in the worl-- they are what I would consider his specialty.

 

[Mr. Rover]

Can you shed your opinion on the arm scye of this picture?

 

[Matt Deckard]

Hard to tell from that pic. I consider good when the fabric is pretty close to your armpit when at rest. the jacket should be riding up whe you raise your arms and it shouldn't be tight across your back when you reach both arms forward, and it shouldn't be floating too far away from your chest or your back... at least that's what I like... I'm all fgor fitted and armhole articulation as was the fit in the 30's.

How far does it ride up when you stick your arms straight out to your sides? From the pic it looks like they are lower from the pit than I like... I think their are better armholes on other jackets, though more pics would help.


By the by, Root has some new pics to post of me in a 3 button vintage and a 3 button modern sport coat showing the differences in the armholes with the arms straight to the side (AKA Deckard) test.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I do apologise for the size fo the image. The student newspaper this morning. Wesley clark spoke here last night: showing us one problem with modern cut armholes:

bk

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Can you shed your opinion on the arm scye of this picture?

Methinks you're trying to trick us into saying something silly, Ray [bad]. What vintage is the jacket?

The armholes appear to be functioning quite well to me. And they seem pretty high cut, too.

bk

 

[Wild Root]

I do apologise for the size fo the image bk

Well, as a Bartender, I took the liberty to down size it a tad for you. I hope you don't mind friend.

Might I ad that the armhole size in the photo on the news print you provided was cavernous! I do say, it makes a suit really look crummy when he raises his hand like that. This would happen with small armholes too, but not as drastically! It would be way less compared to this gent?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢s ill fitted (or lack of fit) suit.

=WR=

 

[Mr. Rover]

That's a early 50's 4x1 jacket in worsted flannel. I like it alot, and wish I had matching pants. I think it was originally made for a boy, as the label intends that it was for a "youth" 34R or S.
When I wear this jacket, I can almost feel the jacket touching my armpit- I have maybe an inch or two of leeway.
I would wear this jacket alot more if the last owner hadn't put in two creasses down the arm accidentally. I need to take it to the cleaners to have them re-press the sleeves right.

Ray

 

[Wild Root]

Which way are the creases? In the 30's-50's creased sleeves were propper. Do they face out like creases on the pants or are they creased on the seam?

If they were creased correctly, it's a very sharp and period look. I wouldn't change it. I have to twist the arm of my tailor to creas my sleeves.

=WR=

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Those 20s SB peak lapel jackets i got have creased sleeves too ...

Sharp look, as the man says.

bk

 

[Wild Root]

Good man!

:cheers1:

=WR=

 

[Mr. Rover]

I love the creases...but the fool put in two creases! As in, when the last owner sent it to the cleaners, the cleaners pressed it in the wrong place and now there are two lines running down each sleeve. One is fainter, but is still quite prominent in the daytime.

Ray

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I love the creases...but the fool put in two creases! As in, when the last owner sent it to the cleaners, the cleaners pressed it in the wrong place and now there are two lines running down each sleeve. One is fainter, but is still quite prominent in the daytime.

Ray

Aother horror story from an incompetent dry cleaners. Will they never end?

bk

 

[Wild Root]

Oh phooey. I know all about that. Never really had that happen on a suit coat but, on pants yes. Most cleaners I take my stuff to press the coat so the sleeves don't have creases any longer. I always have them put it back in!

Well, take it to the cleaners and have them re-set the crease. Good luck friend!

=WR=

 

[Canadave]

pic?

Anyone have a good picture of a sleeve crease?

David

 

[Robert Conway]

Question for Matt -

Speaking of better fit, what was the final verdict on that brown suit you had made by that tailor in Long Beach?

Did he get the armhole 100% right?

In the pictures it looked very impressive.


Thanks,

Robert Conway

 

[Matt Deckard]

Jorge From Long Beach has the armholes down to a science. He just takes liberties with the styling (that hopefully can be remedied).

He does make the most comfortable and flattering trowsers I have ever seen and worn and has a bead on where to find nice heavyweight fabrics.

He is my next stop for custom trowsers.

 

[BellyTank]

Heavy Fabrics...

Speaking of 'heavyweight fabrics'... when I look at '30s and '40s Sears, Wards and Tailoring catologs- the norm seems to be 13-15oz, I haven't seen anything in the 19oz range mentioned- not even in Fall/Winter catalogs...

The fabric swatches in the catalogs all seem not-too-heavy.

Any comment Mr. D.

B
T

 

[Wild Root]

Anyone have a good picture of a sleeve crease?

David

David, I sure do! Here is one of me in a mid 30's suit. You may have seen this before but, oh well, it's a good example.

PS. Matt, what is going on? Bartenders don't delete each others posts brother, talk to me, what up!