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Big guy needs sizing help; Leather A2 repro...

Per Hansa

New in Town
Messages
16
I've been working with HPA to get the size right, and today an Eastman "House" 48R arrived in the mail. I'm curious as to what you think of the fit. It's a tad roomy (especially through the torso), but I'm thinking that's standard for a WW2 era A2, and I think I'm fine with that since it's the 1940's style. The upper sleeves are very roomy, but the sleeves at the wrist become very small--making it difficult to get off over my large paws. The sleeves, and torso length, ride up whenever I move my arms through any range of motion, so I'm thinking another 1" would be about right?

What do you guys think---add another 1" (or 1.5")? Size down to a 46, or stay with this 48? The quality is primo by the way, so am glad I'm going down the Eastman route.
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Boyo

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,225
Location
Long Island NY
the size 48 Looks like a very nice fit, I like the roominess of it. a 46 would be trim, but maybe too trim.
Can you customize just the sleeve length of an Eastman? or will you need to request a long version? (both sleeve and body length)
the long version would fit you well I think
I also had an Eastman A-1 in which circumference of the sleeve at the wrist was very tight.,
 
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Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,357
Do they have a 46L (long)? If so it doesn't hurt to try. I thought they came in Regular and Tall sizes which is plus 2" I believe, for tall guys.
 

Per Hansa

New in Town
Messages
16
Do they have a 46L (long)? If so it doesn't hurt to try. I thought they came in Regular and Tall sizes which is plus 2" I believe, for tall guys.
Yes they can do Long (extra 1”) or XLong (extra 1.5”), but those will be custom orders, which are non-returnable, so we’re trying to figure out the proper chest size at least in the regular size.
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,357
Yes they can do Long (extra 1”) or XLong (extra 1.5”), but those will be custom orders, which are non-returnable, so we’re trying to figure out the proper chest size at least in the regular size.
I see... Non returnable custom orders are risky, especially for a higher priced jacket.

FWIW, I also think the stock 48 gave you a decent fit. It looks comfortable under the armpits. Once the leather breaks in it may just tuck up and mold to your body more for a closer fit.

The danger of going down a size is the shoulder width. I've found that for myself that's always the problem area. If I wanted the chest to fit tight when the jacket is new, I have to go down a size, but eventually I would move the jacket on because the shoulders are a bit tight.

Hopefully you get the sizing sorted soon. These heritage jackets are quite different than modern jackets and are nice to have as part of the collection. Good luck.
 

Brettafett

One Too Many
Messages
1,340
Location
UK
Just saw this.
Im an A-2 guy. Own/ owned almost everything, from everyone.
Your jacket looks good, rather have a touch of extra room, than too little. Also allows you too layer a bit if needs be.
The jacket will loosen up the more you wear it, and dont be afraid to wear it in the rain and then let it air dry.

The 'house' pattern is a more generic pattern, boxier like the Roughwears, some of the other contracts/ patterns might be trimmer, but be careful. If this jacket feels good and relatively comfy, then go with it.

You know the size 48 fits good in the body, and the jacket length looks fine.

Personally, Id get the full 1.5" inches added to sleeves. Once you start wearing the jacket in, you will loose between 0.5 to 1" in the sleeve length, due to creasing that forms under the arm pits, at the elbows and also as the knits loosen up.
At least get the 1" added.

Adding 1" will have the sleeves sitting approximately where they currently are, in a years time.

Enjoy
 

Per Hansa

New in Town
Messages
16
Just saw this.
Im an A-2 guy. Own/ owned almost everything, from everyone.
Your jacket looks good, rather have a touch of extra room, than too little. Also allows you too layer a bit if needs be.
The jacket will loosen up the more you wear it, and dont be afraid to wear it in the rain and then let it air dry.

The 'house' pattern is a more generic pattern, boxier like the Roughwears, some of the other contracts/ patterns might be trimmer, but be careful. If this jacket feels good and relatively comfy, then go with it.

You know the size 48 fits good in the body, and the jacket length looks fine.

Personally, Id get the full 1.5" inches added to sleeves. Once you start wearing the jacket in, you will loose between 0.5 to 1" in the sleeve length, due to creasing that forms under the arm pits, at the elbows and also as the knits loosen up.
At least get the 1" added.

Adding 1" will have the sleeves sitting approximately where they currently are, in a years time.

Enjoy
Thanks for the feedback Brettafett. All good advice.

This past week HPA sent another 48R, this time in the Rough Wear 27752 Model. Overall, I felt the "House" model afforded me more room throughout. The Rough Wear was slightly tighter in the sleeves--especially at the wrist (hard to get off over my oversized paws). The Rough Wear was as roomy as the "House" through the torso, but ballooned out at the belly and back, as opposed to ballooning out at the sides like the House (if that makes any sense, see comparison photos). The Rough Wear has a collar stand, which made for a big difference on how the collar laid down around my neck, as opposed to the House.

Overall, I feel like the "House" would be a good pick for someone looking for a high quality A2, whose priority was comfort, and the "Rough Wear" would be a good pick for someone looking for a high quality A2, whose priority was having a period-authentic jacket from WW2. I was originally leaning toward the "House", but now I'm leaning toward the Rough Wear (I'm suffering from "paralysis by analysis"). Pretty sure I'm going with 1.5" extra added to both sleeve, and body. By the way, Charles from HPA has been extremely helpful. I'd highly recommend them, especially if you're a lengthy guy like me, within the US, and would like to try on a couple options to see what you'd need for chest size before ordering a custom length (which would make it non-refundable). The whole process of trying on 2 separate models only took a couple weeks, as long as you're willing to cover the shipping cost of sending it back. Pretty sure I'm going with 1.5" extra added to both sleeve, and body.

I thought I had already posted the comparison photos between the "House" and "Rough Wear 27752", but apparently it didn't go through, so I'll try again here. House on the left, Rough Wear on the right. Again, I'm 6'5" tall, about 225 pounds, athletic build. Personal measurements (body, NOT jacket): Chest:45.5"/belly button: 41"/belly at belt line (NOT pants size): 40"/shoulder circumference: 53.5"/Sleeve (neck center-shoulder-wrist): 37.5"/Sleeve (shoulder-wrist): 25.5"/Shoulder tip-shoulder tip (straight line): 21"/bicep circumference: 16". A lot of info, but maybe another big guy some day will see this, wondering about Eastman A2's, so there you go. Thanks guys. I'll post final results once they come.
HouseVSroughWear.jpg

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Mr Henry George

New in Town
Messages
3
You can ask David to add a 44inch waist knit to a 46 inch jacket to avoid the overhang at the front. I have an Eastman G1 with 46 chest, with 2 inches added to the length, 1 inch to the sleeve and a 44 inch jacket sized waist knit. David haas advised I go doe the Dubow 1755 with the same measurements. Im 6' 4" and 230lbs. I understand that they are getting a new hide for that jacket at the end of Oct.
 

davyjones007

One of the Regulars
Messages
139
Location
NOVA
Howdy. I am 6'2", 49 inch chest and I am very curious what you went with and how it looks now.

R/ David
 

Per Hansa

New in Town
Messages
16
Howdy. I am 6'2", 49 inch chest and I am very curious what you went with and how it looks now.

R/ David
Hi David,
I decided to go with the Eastman Rough Wear, size 48 Xtra Long. Unfortunately, I am still waiting for it to arrive (I placed my order in Fall 2022). From what I've been told Eastman only occasionally manufactures their custom-ordered sizes. l have been working with History Preservation Associates and Charles has been great with responding to my inquiries (we just talked a couple weeks ago, and Eastman is telling him it should be finished in June). When it arrives I will post pictures, along with detailed measurements, to help any other big guys wondering about sizing.
 

davyjones007

One of the Regulars
Messages
139
Location
NOVA
Hi David,
I decided to go with the Eastman Rough Wear, size 48 Xtra Long. Unfortunately, I am still waiting for it to arrive (I placed my order in Fall 2022). From what I've been told Eastman only occasionally manufactures their custom-ordered sizes. l have been working with History Preservation Associates and Charles has been great with responding to my inquiries (we just talked a couple weeks ago, and Eastman is telling him it should be finished in June). When it arrives I will post pictures, along with detailed measurements, to help any other big guys wondering about sizing.
Oh wow. That's a wait in a half. Most casual jackets I own are either 50R or 50T depending on maker. My G-1s are military issue and are all a size 48. The bi-swing back helps there. My only A-2 is a US Authentic and it's a 50. So I am very curious to see and hear how your jacket will look. Nice choice by the way.

R/ David
 

Per Hansa

New in Town
Messages
16
Ok, my Rough Wear 27752 48 XLong (custom) has finally arrived! All told, it took exactly 9 months from order to delivery for it to arrive from Eastman via History Preservation Associates (ordered mid-Sept 22', delivered mid-June 23'). I'm guessing part of that was due to ordering at peak jacket-shopping season, and partly because I needed a custom size--which I'm told Eastman only does occasionally throughout the year. FYI, my "custom order" was adding an extra 1.5" (XLong), I was told that's the only customization they'd do (either Long or XLong).
Comparing to the Regular sizes sent to me by HPA, the XLong gained me an additional 1.25" in body length, and an additional 1.25" in sleeve length (even through it's advertised the XLong will give an additional 1.5"--I'm sure they indeed add 1.5" when cutting the patterns, but that was my personal observation after having measured both in person. All other measurements were the same as the Regular size.
The measurements of my 48 XLong are: Shoulder-Shoulder 20.25"/ Back length 28.0"/ Sleeve length 27.75"/ Pit-to-Pit width 25.0".
To answer my original question, the Eastman runs small when compared to modern A2s. My 48 XLong Rough Wear fits smaller than the modern jackets I referenced in my original post (LL Bean 46L and USAF issued 44L). It definitely runs a little tighter in the shoulders and chest than the modern patterned A2s I already own. I believe this is due to Eastman accurately replicating WW2 era patterns. So I am glad I went with 48 XLong, and thank you Charles from HPA for talking me out of trying to size down to a 46 after having second thoughts about originally going so "big" with a 48!
Observations other than sizing: The jacket is superb, the quality of the horse hide stands out against all modern retail leather jackets I own. The knits feel somewhat delicate, and the seams aren't overly reinforced (ie double stitched, etc) but I get the sense this is exactly how it would have been assembled in the 1940s, an exact replica, and the craftsmanship is great. I'm very happy I went with the original style--every time I put it on it feels like I'm putting on my Grandfathers old WW2 jacket. Originally I wasn't a fan of the "collar stand" style of the Rough Wear, and thought I'd wear it with the collar unbuttoned and flattened out, but it's starting to grow on me--I'll include pictures wearing it both ways.
As someone who struggles with sizes my advice would be to 1) find a jacket that fits you well and measure all the key measurements. 2) Contact Charles at History Preservation Associates (if within the US) and ask if he can send you a regular sized jacket in the style you think you might like (he's VERY knowledgeable, quick with communications, and great to work with) 3) From there you'll have an idea how it fits in the key areas (shoulders, chest, and length) and if you need to add an additional inch (Long) or 1.5 inch (XLong). Remember, jackets are non-returnable for custom sizes (long and Xlong).
Pictures below, and my current BODY measurements (NOT jacket measurements): 6'5"/ 220#/ Chest 44"/ Circumference at belly button 39"/ Shoulder circumference 53.5"/ Sleeve (neck center-shoulder-wrist) 37.5"/ Shoulder-Shoulder (straight across) 21". If you have any questions, just ask.
 

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Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,714
I can see why you would have hesitated about a 48, given you're in great shape! I think many of us think of sizes past 44 or so as sort of being 'big guy' sizes (even if they aren't necessarily so) so there's a mental block against going for one even if it might be appropriate.

I have to second your experience with Charles; he definitely knows his products inside out.

Great jacket and nothing about the added length gives it that overlong fashion bomber look (which I'm sure you wouldn't want given you put in the cost and search for an Eastman.)

By the way, is that a titanium Seamaster?
 

Per Hansa

New in Town
Messages
16
I can see why you would have hesitated about a 48, given you're in great shape! I think many of us think of sizes past 44 or so as sort of being 'big guy' sizes (even if they aren't necessarily so) so there's a mental block against going for one even if it might be appropriate.

I have to second your experience with Charles; he definitely knows his products inside out.

Great jacket and nothing about the added length gives it that overlong fashion bomber look (which I'm sure you wouldn't want given you put in the cost and search for an Eastman.)

By the way, is that a titanium Seamaster?
Yes I'm glad I trusted Charles and stayed with the larger size than I'd usually go with, good advice I think for WW2 replica jackets (at least for Eastman--can't speak to the other manufacturers).
And yes, good eye, I had the titanium Seamaster in one of my previously posted photos--for these pics though I had the Speedmaster.
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,714
Yes I'm glad I trusted Charles and stayed with the larger size than I'd usually go with, good advice I think for WW2 replica jackets (at least for Eastman--can't speak to the other manufacturers).
And yes, good eye, I had the titanium Seamaster in one of my previously posted photos--for these pics though I had the Speedmaster.

Yeah the Speedmaster was clear in the later pics but the angle made the first watch less certain.

Great jacket and great watches.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
24,905
Location
London, UK
Interest shifted. Back then quite a few members were obsessed with details in different contract. That is understandable because some of them collect the originals too.
Then many newcomers came and simply asked which contract is the slimmest. Now quite a few chooses the RM or other Japanese made A-2 simply because they are slim cut. Accuracy not big factor as long as they are the vintage WW2 style with WW2 A-2 details. Nothing to discuss besides fit now.


There's also the fact that originals are now well beyond the pocket of many of us, as are a number of the big name repros. Of course, even in retro world fashions change, and civilian jackets have just become more high profile. Perhaps the vogue for a whole variety of new hides that aren't traditionally associated with the A2 style plays into it. A credible, popular period movie / series featuring nice A2s would go a long way to repopularising the style. It's been a long time since The Great Escape, which - at least on this side of the pond - did as much as WW2 itself to make the A2 look cool and desirable.
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,357
The Tall size definitely fit you much better in the front and back, it covers the belt loops. Congrats.

How did the airforce deal with extra tall sizes before? Do the pilots just get whatever is issued or do they file for some type of forms to get the longer sized jackets? But the military contracts were mostly batch made right? Or is it like the current CHP vendor situation where the officer could walk into any of the contract vendors and get measured for a custom jacket so to speak?
 

Per Hansa

New in Town
Messages
16
The Tall size definitely fit you much better in the front and back, it covers the belt loops. Congrats.

How did the airforce deal with extra tall sizes before? Do the pilots just get whatever is issued or do they file for some type of forms to get the longer sized jackets? But the military contracts were mostly batch made right? Or is it like the current CHP vendor situation where the officer could walk into any of the contract vendors and get measured for a custom jacket so to speak?
I've had two A2s issued during my military career (USAF policy is that each pilot is entitled to two leather jackets during their career--at least that's what our uniform supply guy told me several years ago, and I got my second one a couple years back). Like the flight suits, the jackets will come in a number of sizes (from 38 all he way up to 52, and usually there are plenty of "Long" sizes mixed in). It wouldn't surprise me if there's an option to request an even more custom size--in the event someone is exceptionally lengthy--but I've never heard of that. Now that I think of it, the maximum height for a pilot is pretty near where I'm at, 6'5", so I'm not sure if anything beyond a "Long" size would really be necessary. Current day USAF issued jackets are in line with modern sizing standards, and I find that a 44L or 46L works fine for me at 6'5" and 220#. I'm sure each Squadron is different though, so if anyone else has had a different experience, jump in.
Another note, I'd say about 25% of USAF aircrew own custom leather jackets from a store near Incirlik Air Base in Turkey called "Pops Leather". Pops uses a much better quality calf skin leather, and upon request they can sew in custom silk liners with blood chits, and additional pockets. Their specs are in-line with the military-issued models, so they can easily pass as an official uniform item, and you can pick one up for just a few hundred dollars. In fact, I recently ordered a Pops leather jacket for my Airline job--it's identical to the one produced by my company's vendor, but better quality.
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,714
Another note, I'd say about 25% of USAF aircrew own custom leather jackets from a store near Incirlik Air Base in Turkey called "Pops Leather". Pops uses a much better quality calf skin leather, and upon request they can sew in custom silk liners with blood chits, and additional pockets. Their specs are in-line with the military-issued models, so they can easily pass as an official uniform item, and you can pick one up for just a few hundred dollars. In fact, I recently ordered a Pops leather jacket for my Airline job--it's identical to the one produced by my company's vendor, but better quality.

This would make a cool thread for a whole number of reasons, by the way!

One of our favorite things here is discovering vendors like that who are established but unfamiliar to us.
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,357
I've had two A2s issued during my military career (USAF policy is that each pilot is entitled to two leather jackets during their career--at least that's what our uniform supply guy told me several years ago, and I got my second one a couple years back). Like the flight suits, the jackets will come in a number of sizes (from 38 all he way up to 52, and usually there are plenty of "Long" sizes mixed in). It wouldn't surprise me if there's an option to request an even more custom size--in the event someone is exceptionally lengthy--but I've never heard of that. Now that I think of it, the maximum height for a pilot is pretty near where I'm at, 6'5", so I'm not sure if anything beyond a "Long" size would really be necessary. Current day USAF issued jackets are in line with modern sizing standards, and I find that a 44L or 46L works fine for me at 6'5" and 220#. I'm sure each Squadron is different though, so if anyone else has had a different experience, jump in.
Another note, I'd say about 25% of USAF aircrew own custom leather jackets from a store near Incirlik Air Base in Turkey called "Pops Leather". Pops uses a much better quality calf skin leather, and upon request they can sew in custom silk liners with blood chits, and additional pockets. Their specs are in-line with the military-issued models, so they can easily pass as an official uniform item, and you can pick one up for just a few hundred dollars. In fact, I recently ordered a Pops leather jacket for my Airline job--it's identical to the one produced by my company's vendor, but better quality.
Very cool story and Thanks for sharing. I know Pops leather, small world! They had an Etsy store when I bought a pair of gloves from them.
At 6’5” it’s hard to find off rack that will fit well, your Eastman custom did well.
 

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