Cal-Leather

[jchance]

Great thread! It's been a long time since I had this much fun researching a recent purchase.

I've never been particularly attracted to Cals, but some recent photos by Loungers have turned my head.

A few weeks back I turned 50 and decided to treat myself to a new high end piece of leather. I had my heart set on a Vanson but the ones that really excited me were out of my price range. Then I saw these recent Cals posted on TFL and thought, what's eBay look like for Cals right now?

And there was this guy, just sitting there waiting on me at half price. It was love at first sight.

I reckon this is from the early 1980s, maybe steerhide, but I'm not sure how accurate all the dating information is that I've found so I don't know for sure. Maybe someone else can date it.

The graining and the interior are so lovely - really immaculate with terrific character. I just bought it this morning and it has to come all the way across country, so it will be a hard wait. But I love it when a major purchase just feels right.

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Congrats on your purchase! All the Cal owners have never regretted their buys. And the main Talon zipper and diamond pull zippers are indicative of late 50s-mid 60s Cal, likely horsehide, but I’d expect thick, beefy hide. Used Cal’s offer very good value for the money spent.

 

[The Lost Cowboy]

Congrats on your purchase! All the Cal owners have never regretted their buys. And the main Talon zipper is indicative of late 50s-60s Cal, possibly horsehide, but I’d expect beefy hide. Used Cal’s offer very good value for the money spent.

Thanks for the congrats and the encouragement. I didn't believe it would be so old - especially not with the liner in such great shape. Maybe it was relined?

 

[jchance]

Thanks for the congrats and the encouragement. I didn't believe it would be so old - especially not with the liner in such great shape. Maybe it was relined?

Possibly, or a closet queen. The lining looks just like one of the original.

Link to how to date the main Talon zipper: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/dating-outerwear-by-zipper-design.73884/post-2866108

 

[The Lost Cowboy]

Possibly, or a closet queen. The lining looks just like one of the original.

Link to how to date the zipper: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/dating-outerwear-by-zipper-design.73884/post-2866108

I'm new to leather so I must be mistaken, but I thought this kind of graining was only possible if the jacket was worn quite a bit?

And thanks for the zipper link - I am still finding the key educational posts on the leather side of the house.

 

[jchance]

Conmar zipper. Owner was a waste ***ner in WW II, then became a Glendora, California police officer after the war. This was his patrol jacket.

 

[jchance]

I'm new to leather so I must be mistaken, but I thought this kind of graining was only possible if the jacket was worn quite a bit?

And thanks for the zipper link - I am still finding the key educational posts on the leather side of the house.

Not necessarily. The upper back and the left body (if you’re wearing the jacket) still look pretty smooth and unused. The jacket overall still appears shiny from far, and has no Teacore effect showing despite its 60 years of age. If it has already gone through one or more lining’s lifetime, some Teacore at the stress points would have shown up. I think the grains in some leather panels were present as a result of the passage of time, with the changing temperature and humidity once the jacket has been worn a bit to set in some creases.

 

[The Lost Cowboy]

Not necessarily. The upper back and the left body (if you’re wearing the jacket) still looks pretty smooth and unused. The jacket overall still appears shiny from far, and has no Teacore effect showing despite its 60 years of age. If it has already gone through one or more lining’s lifetime, some Teacore at the stress points would have shown up. I think the grains in some leather panels were present as a result of the passage of time, with the changing temperature and humidity once the jacket has been worn a bit to set in some creases.

Got it, thanks for pointing out those clues. I didn't realize just sitting in a closet could bring out grain like this. Makes more sense that this was a closet queen.

I had a good look at the zipper thread yesterday. Very informative, thank you!

Soooo.... a sixties jacket. Not what I was expecting but let's see what it's like. I don't like jackets that I feel I have to be gentle with. I only have one 60s jacket (a Windward) and it just feels delicate. I rarely wear it.

 

[jchance]

Got it, thanks for pointing out those clues. I didn't realize just sitting in a closet could bring out grain like this. Makes more sense that this was a closet queen.

I had a good look at the zipper thread yesterday. Very informative, thank you!

Soooo.... a sixties jacket. Not what I was expecting but let's see what it's like. I don't like jackets that I feel I have to be gentle with. I only have one 60s jacket (a Windward) and it just feels delicate. I rarely wear it.

Cal isn’t a jacket you need to be gentle with. It’s meant to be a functional police motorcycle jacket, to be used and abused, and repaired, then repeated. The hide should be thick enough to withstand any motorcycle accidents and save your own hide. You’d only need to be delicate with a civilian or designer jacket, like one made out of lamb or sheepskin. This Cal was likely made of horsehide, or possibly cowhide, so you’re good to get a bike and go for rides now. Wear it in good health!

 

[The Lost Cowboy]

Cal isn’t a jacket you need to be gentle with. It’s meant to be a functional police motorcycle jacket, to be used and abused, and repaired, then repeated. The hide should be thick enough to withstand any motorcycle accidents and save your own hide. You’d only need to be delicate with a civilian or a designer jacket, like one made out of lamb or sheepskin. This Cal was likely made of horsehide, or possibly cowhide, so you’re good to get a bike and go for rides now. Wear it in good health!

Of course this is the common knowledge about Cal but I always have concerns about old stitching.

But my biggest concern is about how soft my Windward is. I could literally curl up with my Windward like a blanket, it's so soft. It feels like the leather will rip the first time I bump against anything sharp at all (like just a chair edge, for example).

Is all vintage leather so soft and does it still offer protection?

 

[Rick Dalton]

I thought I would post my Cal.


It’s a humble example and certainly can’t compete with some of the incredible jackets posted here — but this is my second proper leather jacket ever, so it’s special to me.


What makes this piece interesting is the leather: it’s noticeably thinner than the typical, hefty CAL hides we often see. According to the current owner of CAL Leathers, there was a time when Cal used a special homemade conditioner on their hides before making the jackets. She believes this particular one is from that batch — the treatment made the leather stay jet black and prevented it from developing a traditional patina. The jackets with this finish also remained very soft over time.

Even though the leather is soft, the jacket feels well made — it has that solid, purpose-built feel that sets it far apart from the kind of softness you’d find in mall-brand fashion jackets. It’s a different kind of soft — not flimsy, just pliable and broken-in in a really satisfying way.

She also mentioned that, just like today, back in the ’60s and ’70s customers could request jackets to be made from whichever leather they preferred. So if this one feels thinner than a typical LAPD jacket, it’s very possible (according to her) that it’s actually horsehide.


Thanks for looking!

 

[The Lost Cowboy]

I thought I would post my Cal.


It’s a humble example and certainly can’t compete with some of the incredible jackets posted here — but this is my second proper leather jacket ever, so it’s special to me.


What makes this piece interesting is the leather: it’s noticeably thinner than the typical, hefty CAL hides we often see. According to the current owner of CAL Leathers, there was a time when Cal used a special homemade conditioner on their hides before making the jackets. She believes this particular one is from that batch — the treatment made the leather stay jet black and prevented it from developing a traditional patina. The jackets with this finish also remained very soft over time.

Even though the leather is soft, the jacket feels well made — it has that solid, purpose-built feel that sets it far apart from the kind of softness you’d find in mall-brand fashion jackets. It’s a different kind of soft — not flimsy, just pliable and broken-in in a really satisfying way.

She also mentioned that, just like today, back in the ’60s and ’70s customers could request jackets to be made from whichever leather they preferred. So if this one feels thinner than a typical LAPD jacket, it’s very possible (according to her) that it’s actually horsehide.


Thanks for looking!

It was your photo in the other thread that inspired me to look for a Cal of my own. I like your jacket and you wear it well.

 

[Rick Dalton]

It was your photo in the other thread that inspired me to look for a Cal of my own. I like your jacket and you wear it well.

That’s awesome to hear — thanks! Looking forward to seeing the Cal you ended up with.

 

[jchance]

Of course this is the common knowledge about Cal but I always have concerns about old stitching.

But my biggest concern is about how soft my Windward is. I could literally curl up with my Windward like a blanket, it's so soft. It feels like the leather will rip the first time I bump against anything sharp at all (like just a chair edge, for example).

Is all vintage leather so soft and does it still offer protection?

Vintage jackets are generally softer and offer great protection still.

I think you’re underestimate how difficult it is to cut through leather. Have you ever tried cutting leather? I had a pair of kilted suede shoes from Ralph Lauren Purple Label, and tried to cut off the leather fringes and leather shoes laces to redesign the shoes to be more wearable. It took me many, many cuts with great effort (going at it at the right angle and such) to get through the leather, even when I used a pair of sharp, haircutting scissor. You’d need special leathercrafting tools to handle the cutting of leather, not your common, daily sharp tools.

The thing with vintage leather jackets is that they hold value well. Even if you get scratches and holes on it, you still can sell it at about the same price as it is currently worth. I wouldn’t be scared to wear ‘em vintage jackets unless the leather has started cracking.

 

[Destruct]

Picked up this straight zip Cal a while ago, it’s made from some super heavy hide - probably horse. I think it’s got the best grain I’ve seen on a Cal. Came with original fur collar and neck warmer. It’s got a paperclip Conmar main zip which is pretty cool, too.

Everything about it is perfect IMO, it’s just sadly a little short on me.. might be rehoming it soon. Fit is about a 40.

Interestingly, its label reads “Louis The Tailor” from Montebello, CA which is just a few towns away from Ventura.. all details point to it being a duty-worn Cal.

 

[jchance]

Picked up this straight zip Cal a while ago, it’s made from some super heavy hide - probably horse. I think it’s got the best grain I’ve seen on a Cal. Came with original fur collar and neck warmer. It’s got a paperclip Conmar main zip which is pretty cool, too.

Everything about it is perfect IMO, it’s just sadly a little short on me.. might be rehoming it soon. Fit is about a 40.

Interestingly, its label reads “Louis The Tailor” from Montebello, CA which is just a few towns away from Ventura.. all details point to it being a duty-worn Cal.

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Early 1950s Cal. Do you have the chest and shoulder measurements? I’m a size 38-40 and may be looking :eye emoji:

 

[Destruct]

Early 1950s Cal. Do you have the chest and shoulder measurements? I’m a size 38-40 and may be looking :eye emoji:

Woah, I definitely didn’t peg it for early 50s! If I had 2-3” more in the front it’d be my grail……..

~21” p2p
~24” sleeves
~18.5” shoulders
~24” back length

Back drops about 1.5” further than the front

 

[jchance]

Got it, thanks for pointing out those clues. I didn't realize just sitting in a closet could bring out grain like this. Makes more sense that this was a closet queen.

There was a dude on Reddit today freaking out about his new jacket getting grainy rolls. He complained that it occurred naturally and he didn’t get to put those on himself. This was all due to a recent heatwave. So just hanging it naturally in the closet can cause creases due to the environment.

https://www.reddit.com/r/leatherjacket/comments/1lra1ks

 

[jchance]

Woah, I definitely didn’t peg it for early 50s! If I had 2-3” more in the front it’d be my grail……..

~21” p2p
~24” sleeves
~18.5” shoulders
~24” back length

Back drops about 1.5” further than the front

Unfortunately too big for me, but if only length is the issue to an otherwise grail jacket, there are ways to stretch the jacket to the desired length that you want. You can search the forum for DIY methods in the jacket “repair” thread. Below is an example of stretching out 2 sizes in the chest, but length works the same way—leather stretches and shrinks, whichever way you prefer.

Do try this at home: leather jacket repair tips

How should I apply this stuff? A little dab where the tape is fraying. A little bit at a time. Then let it sit for a little while, dry out. Don’t worry too much if you apply a tad more than a dab, it all soaks into the tape. But too much and it will run into the leather so have something handy...

www.thefedoralounge.com

 

[Destruct]

Unfortunately too big for me, but if only length is the issue to an otherwise grail jacket, there are ways to stretch the jacket to the desired length that you want. You can search the forum for DIY methods in the jacket “repair” thread. Below is an example of stretching out 2 sizes in the chest, but length works the same way—leather stretches and shrinks, whichever way you prefer.

http://[URL]https://www.thefedoralo...eather-jacket-repair-tips.104840/post-2851655

[/URL]

Hm, an interesting idea. I might give something like that a shot

 

[The Lost Cowboy]

Vintage jackets are generally softer and offer great protection still.

I think you’re underestimate how difficult it is to cut through leather. Have you ever tried cutting leather? I had a pair of kilted suede shoes from Ralph Lauren Purple Label, and tried to cut off the leather fringes and leather shoes laces to redesign the shoes to be more wearable. It took me many, many cuts with great effort (going at it at the right angle and such) to get through the leather, even when I used a pair of sharp, haircutting scissor. You’d need special leathercrafting tools to handle the cutting of leather, not your common, daily sharp tools.

The thing with vintage leather jackets is that they hold value well. Even if you get scratches and holes on it, you still can sell it at about the same price as it is currently worth. I wouldn’t be scared to wear ‘em vintage jackets unless the leather has started cracking.

Thanks for this response - it really helped me understand leather more. No, I've never tried to cut leather but I was wondering how hard it would be to sew a patch on a leather jacket. I'm guessing you can't use regular sewing needles?