CHP AL's, Cal's, Langlitz, Vanson Photo repository thread

[unhatted]

Such a dangerous thread—hard to tell if what I need next is a padded cross-zip or a straight zip…

 

[cbez]

High notch. I'm not sure why, but surprisingly a super comfortable pattern.

 

[f2002q]

Vanson CHP MK2

this jacket has taken 2 years in order to let me raise my arms above my head. Shown here first is without and with belt.

 

[Destruct]

My two favorite Cals and the best of each style I’ve come across that fit me.

I encounter Cal/Al's jackets fairly frequently when hunting in vintage stores across California, but usually they don't work out for me for one reason or another. These two, however, I hope to keep with me for a very long time.

 

[Destruct]

Cal Straight Zip CHP - Unlabeled, made of an indestructible cow or horse, I figure a Cal. Maybe 70s? Brass Talon zips, no action back. Double stitch cuffs, 6.8 lbs

 

[Destruct]

White label Cal - Main zip and one sleeve zip replaced, the other sleeve zip has a huge “Talon” pull. The hide is super shiny, possible horsehide? Action back, double stitch cuffs, 7.6 lbs

 

[Destruct]

Beat up white label Cal - Really nice topcoat fade going on here, a former owner didn’t take the best care of this one, it’s coming undone in a fair number of places. That aside, it still wears pretty nicely despite being a size or two too big for me, fits like a 44. Lining in decent shape. Looks like someone ripped duct tape off the back. This one seems pretty old.

Still a really cool jacket despite its condition, but it’s headed for eBay.

Sleeve zip is ‘Talon’, main zip replaced with a YKK. Double stitch cuffs, 60° hand warmers, no action back, 6 lbs.

 

[unhatted]

Updating my previous set with a new arrival (and with the heavy Als en route to a new owner it should fit better). Huge thanks to @Leather Walker For proxying this for me!

It’s essentially the twin of my other Als, exactly the same measurements and details, so I assume made as part of roughly the same production run—what are the chances? The only difference (other than the intact lining) is the hide, which is slightly lighter, stiffer and shinier. For whatever reason this makes the jacket sit slightly differently, which I love. The collar on this one in particular sits just how I like.

Of note:
Shoulder gussets
Pointed yoke
Single cuff stitching
Smaller lapels, rounded upper lapels
No beaver tail
Dull brass YKK hardware
70° Pocket angle
55/45 split above/below pocket seam
Black pocket lining
Weight: 2.3kg 5.2lb

For me this is just about as good as it gets (at least until I find a mid-heavy Cal in my size with no epaulettes or gussets!).

 

[unhatted]

Also, this seems to be the right place to ask… Anyone know the official/stock method for tying off the side-laces? Have seen a few different techniques when receiving these.

Is it…

A) Both strands together in a single knot (using elastic to demonstrate as it’s easier to see the knots)

B) Double knot, strands opposing

C) Bow, strands opposing

Or a secret 4th knot? Forgive my lack of official knot terminology here…

 

[Leather Walker]

Updating my previous set with a new arrival (and with the heavy Als en route to a new owner it should fit better). Huge thanks to @Leather Walker For proxying this for me!

Glad to help!

Here some pics of the most recent Cal I've bought. The leather is lightweight and suppler than others'. This jacket is very comfortable to wear.

 

[Herrvallmo]

Just got this CHP-style jacket delivered, no Cal/als/Langlitz so hope it sill okay, it's from a brand called Crocker and is made from rather thick cowhide.

I bought it without knowing the measurements but I'm rather pleased with the fit, wish the arms were a cm or two longer, but for the price I can't complain.

I really really like this style, such a badass design so I understand why people seems to love it
Now I need to hunt for a "OG" one, maybe A Cal or Langlitz hmmm

Some pictures

 

[unhatted]

Some pictures

Nice! Most in common with Langlitz pattern I’d say but these are many on this thread with more knowledge than me.

As an aside, I saw today that Four Speed Co have done one of these as well (which in turn Chinese brand Cidu have copied).

 

[unhatted]

Thanks to a very smooth in-person deal with @Mandarin I now have this interesting Cal to replace the previous one I sold (too big, too long). There’s probably always going to be fit compromises with these old Cals—the length of this is perfect but it’s wider than it needs to be—but all in all very happy with it. Curiously the collar doesn’t really reach the snaps—I’ve tried to recrease the lapels but there just isn’t enough leather to comfortably reach the snaps!

 

[unhatted]

Stick a fork in me—I’m done! After a couple years search for a decent weight, no-epaulettes Cal in exactly my size, I finally feel like I’ve hit the jackpot! This came up on eBay for an affordable, but not bargain price, and I jumped on it immediately, without even checking the exact measurements. Somehow it just looked like it would work out, and I’ve bought enough too-big Cals to know roughly my size by the width of the duck-tail. Glad I trusted my instincts. Yes it’s classically short but this for me is the best fit I’m gonna get. Famous last words, of course, but…

And the leather! I’m guessing this is earlier than the other two Cals I’ve posted here. The lack of epaulets, thicker, heavier hide (5.5lbs—check out those sleeve rolls) and hoop(?) pocket pulls would seem to point to this, though perhaps more experienced heads can suggest a rough era? The sleeve zips are servals, and the main zip is a (replacement, 70s/80s?) talon. The stitching is brown with age, other than on the main zipper, and is coming loose in places.

I may put my above Cal up for sale or keep it for winter use, as this is maybe not a layering size. Anyway, as is probably clear, I’m thrilled with this one!

A few quick shots. Any idea on dating?

 

[Leather Walker]

Unhatted, that jacket is absolutely killer! And the fit? Perfect.

The weight, the texture... this thing has presence. Given the thicker leather, the o-ring pocket pulls, and the absence of epaulets, I'd say the jacket was made in the very early 70's (or just a little earlier) for a highway patrol services. It really reminds me of the 2nd Cal I bought, both in terms of the hardware and the hide, and a bit in general too. I'm not sure, but I guess this main Talon zip could be from the late 80s.

You’ve got something truly special here. Enjoy it!

 

[Herrvallmo]

Stick a fork in me—I’m done! After a couple years search for a decent weight, no-epaulettes Cal in exactly my size, I finally feel like I’ve hit the jackpot! This came up on eBay for an affordable, but not bargain price, and I jumped on it immediately, without even checking the exact measurements. Somehow it just looked like it would work out, and I’ve bought enough too-big Cals to know roughly my size by the width of the duck-tail. Glad I trusted my instincts. Yes it’s classically short but this for me is the best fit I’m gonna get. Famous last words, of course, but…

And the leather! I’m guessing this is earlier than the other two Cals I’ve posted here. The lack of epaulets, thicker, heavier hide (5.5lbs—check out those sleeve rolls) and hoop(?) pocket pulls would seem to point to this, though perhaps more experienced heads can suggest a rough era? The sleeve zips are servals, and the main zip is a (replacement, 70s/80s?) talon. The stitching is brown with age, other than on the main zipper, and is coming loose in places.

I may put my above Cal up for sale or keep it for winter use, as this is maybe not a layering size. Anyway, as is probably clear, I’m thrilled with this one!

A few quick shots. Any idea on dating?

View attachment 701019 View attachment 701020 View attachment 701021 View attachment 701022 View attachment 701023 View attachment 701024

Perfection mate! the length, the body & everything in between is just perfection(the pocket2zip stitching is just a cherry on top!)!

The CHP is such a badass design and you wear it great! and with a fit like that you are set mate as it can't really get better


Cheers!

 

[unhatted]

Well when I say done…. Obviously what I mean is done with my search for an epauletteless Cal. I’ve remained curious to try a padded CHP and as luck would have it I tracked down a heavyweight padded Al’s which really seems to be a close sibling of the first Al’s @Leather Walker posted on page 1:

Same heavy but soft leather—it’s the second heaviest CHP I’ve handled—same YKK zippers, same lack of gussets. Mine is probably a size up, judging by the pocket stitching. It actually fits great around the shoulders and sleeves but… and weird to say it about a CHP… it’s a bit long in the body! A bit more front drop than I’d like…

 

[Leather Walker]

Hey, nice padded Al's! I wonder where you find all these amazing CHPs, though I know you'll keep it secretly.
This Al's is very cool, and I bet it could be made in the same period as mine. I really love the leather and this stitching work is precious.
Enjoy that jacket, man!

 

[AeroFan_07]

Well when I say done…. Obviously what I mean is done with my search for an epauletteless Cal. I’ve remained curious to try a padded CHP and as luck would have it I tracked down a heavyweight padded Al’s which really seems to be a close sibling of the first Al’s @Leather Walker posted on page 1:

View attachment 703972 View attachment 703973 View attachment 703974

Same heavy but soft leather—it’s the second heaviest CHP I’ve handled—same YKK zippers, same lack of gussets. Mine is probably a size up, judging by the pocket stitching. It actually fits great around the shoulders and sleeves but… and weird to say it about a CHP… it’s a bit long in the body! A bit more front drop than I’d like…

View attachment 703975 View attachment 703976

That's a beauty right there. Honestly the front length is what I would wish for, only 1 of my CHP's (oddly my padded belted 10-pocket Langlitz) is the only one that fully covers my belt in front.

In any case, wear it and enjoy it - I have never seen another "padded" Al's like this one. Also, note the straight cut rear instead of the curved cut. Definitely was a special order.

 

[unhatted]

Hey, nice padded Al's! I wonder where you find all these amazing CHPs, though I know you'll keep it secretly.

Ha, I think I have a long way to go to equal your record with CHPs, but nice of you to say so! Honestly there’s no secret. Other than one from TFL classifieds and the one you found on Vinted, they’ve all just been on eBay, all listed as Cals or Als (mostly the former, including this Als!). What I’m getting better at is how the sizing works. I know now that as a modern 36 I need a 40 in Cal (handwritten pocket sizing), and even a 38 by modern p2p measurements, due to the aggressive waist drop, plus I can usually tell from the shape of the ducktail and length of right pocket seam! CHPs in my size tend to be harder to find, but also less sought after when they come up. Still kicking myself for missing a padded Cal in my size that went for the (low) opening bid price!

Honestly the front length is what I would wish for, only 1 of my CHP's (oddly my padded belted 10-pocket Langlitz) is the only one that fully covers my belt in front.

In any case, wear it and enjoy it

Thanks! I’d prefer it shorter but the sizing on these is so variable and as observed the waist adjustment is so good I’ve learned to appreciate a range of fits. I’ll definitely wear and enjoy until I can score a padded a size or two down (if anyone ever wants to trade it for a similar with 20-21 p2p you know where to find me—this is 22.5!).