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Custom Johnson Leathers Advice for MrFrown

Mrfrown

One Too Many
Messages
1,593
He sent Chocolate and Dark Brown Vermont, and German Ranger Brown. The Vermont is veg tan but not sure about Ranger.
 

Jin431

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,912
Location
Bay Area CA
Or... You could stop trying to make me go bankrupt.
... What's the specs on it? How many oz? How does it feel, drape, etc?

Everytime I go to that store I tell you hahaha it's going to be a JL version of the French cyclist/Eastman ostmann jacket, riri zips all around, light wool lining. It's midweight 2.5 oz or so like the Masaye. I should get it within a week or two but I'm guessing it will be a little stiffer than the Masaye but should still drape. I'll update you as soon as I have it on hand, with photos of course
 

Mrfrown

One Too Many
Messages
1,593
Vermont Dark Brown and Vermont Chocolate Brown both 2.5-2.75oz, and Ranger Brown German is 2.5oz.

He described the Vermont as veg tan. Not sure on the German one.

The Vermont both look like they’ll have a tea core effect as they’re not dyed all the way through, the Ranger brown is brown all the way down. I abused the Dark Brown Vermont a bit to see how it handled it, you can see where I scraped it.

Here are some pics for you to judge yourself.

Dark Brown Vermont
78BA93B1-D725-4307-A893-764CC1B141B5.jpeg


Chocolate Brown Vermont
0CD1A1A1-36F6-49DA-BE72-EE7A4B021E0B.jpeg


German Ranger Brown
74A18661-12A2-4F25-BC80-5EBE461FC33A.jpeg


Left to right: Dark Brown Vermont, Choc Brown Vermont, German Ranger Brown
98FC1D14-78E7-47B2-B811-2BE302C91BA5.jpeg


Comparing underside and sides
65118737-17E7-4FD8-A2E2-6B83614D8E84.jpeg
E52D7788-6D59-41B1-86E1-AED62CA960B2.jpeg
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,711
Location
East Java
from most post of JL jackets, they make consistently bigger neck hole to the jacket proportion, unless you plan to completely zip up often over shirt collar with a neck tie or over something equally chunky, probably underline that area to make them smaller. especially if you plan to spread the front into a lapel, bigger neckhole would make it it even bigger gap to your neck when part of the collar is folded down into lapel.

on that jacket model, I would like me some snaps, whether I will use it to anchor the lapel or not doesn't matter, the chest needs clutters :) but I agree with Carlos, row of snaps along the main zip looked redundant, either go with zip or snaps.

maybe small diamond quilt on the elbow only, or from elbow down to the back of forearm you will quickly wear them down from brushing your sleeve against desk etc, and small diamond quilt would quickly show fade pattern
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,711
Location
East Java
Vermont Dark Brown and Vermont Chocolate Brown both 2.5-2.75oz, and Ranger Brown German is 2.5oz.

He described the Vermont as veg tan. Not sure on the German one.

The Vermont both look like they’ll have a tea core effect as they’re not dyed all the way through, the Ranger brown is brown all the way down. I abused the Dark Brown Vermont a bit to see how it handled it, you can see where I scraped it.

Here are some pics for you to judge yourself.

Dark Brown Vermont
View attachment 317676
waah, I don't really like the look of that suede on the vermont, maybe just that part near the belly used as sample hopefully the part used for the jacket have tighter suede.
Chocolate Brown Vermont
View attachment 317677

German Ranger Brown
View attachment 317678

Left to right: Dark Brown Vermont, Choc Brown Vermont, German Ranger Brown
View attachment 317679

Comparing underside and sides
View attachment 317680 View attachment 317681
I'm not liking the shaggy suede on the vermont, probably just this sample taken near the belly or something, but I hope the leather used is going to have tighter denser suede
 

Mrfrown

One Too Many
Messages
1,593
Thanks for the design insight @navetsea

Agree about the lapel snaps. I like the ones you pictures but perhaps not for this build. Reminiscent of buttons on a double breasted coat almost. Very cool.

As simple as your suggestion for quilting only on elbows/forearms may seem, I didn’t think of it before, but I really like it. Definitely considering. Don’t want to accidentally look like Popeye though.

Funny you mention the shaggy suede on Vermont because I had the same reaction. I haven’t handled that many hides/samples so I don’t have a large range of reference, but it did strike me as odd compared to the more uniform rough side of the German Ranger.

The more I look at it the more I like the German hide. Still undecided. Honestly I could roll dice to pick amongst these three and be happy with the result I’m sure.
 

Cornelius

Practically Family
Messages
715
Location
Great Lakes
From the photos you've posted, I like the appearance of the "German Ranger Brown" best. Still curious whether that one is veg, chrome, or combo tanned. Given that NOLA winters can be pretty damp [when it rains in New Orleans, it RAAAAINS], that might be something for you to consider - not wearing a $1,500 sponge if you happen to get caught out in the rain.
 

Mrfrown

One Too Many
Messages
1,593
From the photos you've posted, I like the appearance of the "German Ranger Brown" best. Still curious whether that one is veg, chrome, or combo tanned. Given that NOLA winters can be pretty damp [when it rains in New Orleans, it RAAAAINS], that might be something for you to consider - not wearing a $1,500 sponge if you happen to get caught out in the rain.

This link goes to a Simmons Bilt jacket in German Ranger Brown for sale on TFL, seller indicated it’s chrome tanned.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/simmons-bilt-tailgunner.95435/

The Simmons Bilt site includes this picture and description in their Our Leathers page:

4B211FD1-1F06-49FA-AC44-8EAF646D6E81.jpeg

“Ranger Brown Horsehide. 1-1.1mm, soft feel, minimal break in.”

Still waiting for reply from Damon on my last follow up email, don’t want to bombard him with more questions yet. I’m sure he’ll be able to shed more light.
 

Goel

A-List Customer
Messages
332
The Vermont is veg tan but has some wax or oil applied to it, the German sample that I got was an aniline finish with no protection at all. I'm going with a special Vermont color however I still want to apply some wax at some point.
 

Cornelius

Practically Family
Messages
715
Location
Great Lakes
This link goes to a Simmons Bilt jacket in German Ranger Brown for sale on TFL, seller indicated it’s chrome tanned.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/simmons-bilt-tailgunner.95435/

The Simmons Bilt site includes this picture and description in their Our Leathers page:

View attachment 318009
“Ranger Brown Horsehide. 1-1.1mm, soft feel, minimal break in.”

Still waiting for reply from Damon on my last follow up email, don’t want to bombard him with more questions yet. I’m sure he’ll be able to shed more light.

Well Ranger Brown horsehide might be the winner then.

Thanks for the link to that SB Tailgunner - nice jacket, but I fear the sleeves might be too short for my orangutan arms.

Edit: Just noticed that classified listing is from 2018!
 
Last edited:

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