Formal Wear Primer

Discussion in 'Suits' started by shindeco, Feb 25, 2006.

  1. Faux Brummell

    Faux Brummell New in Town

    Messages:
    16
    6D9C149F-B329-4AD4-B628-1AA3ED803B8C.jpeg Hi everyone. At the end of last year I commented that I wished this thread was more active so I thought it only made sense for me to contribute a photo myself. This is from last weekend, my wife and I celebrated our first wedding anniversary with afternoon tea at The Plaza. I realize my outfit isn’t quite perfect but I hope you’ll go easy on me for the sartorial imperfections, I was very happy with the overall look. (All eyes were on my wife anyway!) We had an incredible time.
    (Come on now everyone, your turn, let’s keep this thread going!)
    Cheers,
    FB
     
    PeterB, Michael A and Patrick Hall like this.
  2. ruvort

    ruvort One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    103
    Location:
    Portland area
    I know this is an old post, but hopefully you have found more opportunities to wear this. My main critique is that the waistcoat is much too long though. It should really be the same length as the jacket or a little bit shorter.

    Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
     
  3. Mathematicus

    Mathematicus A-List Customer

    Messages:
    377
    Location:
    Coventry, UK
    I am looking for some morning wear advice!

    Long story short, I am getting married next February in my hometown (Italy) and since we decided the date and agreed on the fact that I'll wear a morning coat, I have been looking around to find the right pieces of the best quality and fit possible without shelling a minimum of 1000 £ (in Italy it would cost you at least 2000 euros and it would be of the "modern eccentric" variety, as morning wear is not really practised anymore since 20s and 30).

    With a lot of time and patience I finally found a beautiful hadmade morning coat in Oxford gray (very likely from the 50s) with nice unpadded shoulders that fit well with my square shoulder line. I had it altered by a competent London tailor to match my girlish waist and the result is great - total price including alterations 170 £.

    The real trouble was to find a decent pair of trousers which could match. They had to satisfy the following conditions: 1) high rise with button for braces and back cut appropriately for a waistcoat, 2) decently close cut around hips 3) no pleats and possibly 4) solid colour (the traditional striped variety was fine for me but my mother insisted I got something in a solid shade of gray).

    Most of the trousers I have seen were looking hopelessly low waisted. Fortunately I snapped a pair of light grey trousers (very likely from a morning suit) which matched all the above conditions! They fit like a glove and will only need to be hemmed.
    Cost - 10 £ (really!)

    Now the real trouble. The colour of the trousers is a light silver-ish gray which in my opinion looks good in contrast with the very dark grey of the morning coat and creates a sleek look that flatters me. However, I am now troubled to find a waistcoat that can fit into this colour combination. As far as I know, the traditional options were dove gray and buff, the latter one being practically impossible to find nowadays.

    I believe that a dove gray waistcoat would look too close to the shade of the trousers, making the overall effect a bit dull. It would be tough to find one that has the right material texture and colour, moreover.

    It is unrealistic that I can find a better fitting pair of trousers with the same characteristics, so I would really like to keep these.
    I have seen around that the following options have been practised:

    1) ivory, off white or even cream waistcoat. This would be a kind of alternative to buff and garments in this shade are not impossible to find even in decent cuts. But would, for example, an ivory waistcoat look good with almost-black coat and light grey trousers?

    2) dark/medium gray waistcoat, a shade darker than trousers, considerably lighter than coat. I have seen this option in some online pictures and it seemed to work but I would like to ask for some external advice. I have the fear that such combination might emphasise too much my long and slim legs.

    3) duck egg waistcoat, a very pale shade of blue. No idea if it would work with my ensemble, neither if this option is considered gauche by the traditional rules.

    Any comment on this would be very appreciated. Of course I will post pictures when the outfit is complete!

    Edit:
    here is a picture trying to show the difference in shade between coat and trousers. Trousers are actually a tiny bit less bright than pictured.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2018
    PeterB likes this.
  4. fabiovenhorst

    fabiovenhorst One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,226
    Location:
    Gaspar - SC - Brazil
    A vintage dinner suit that was made by a tailor in Blumenau - SC. Details are amazing. Link closure, suspender buttons, a buttoned fly and the proper braid on the outer seams of the trousers. All made of a heavy wool barathea.

    45834399_2907958839238602_7315451206380290048_o.jpg
    45827558_2907959435905209_7461963291149991936_o.jpg
    45776536_2907959139238572_7198205423902523392_o.jpg
    46002453_2907959639238522_3170521257061908480_o.jpg
    46104333_2907959885905164_6767201740602212352_o.jpg
    45825007_2907960092571810_7966152701778067456_o.jpg
    46087534_2907960602571759_8302340648397176832_o.jpg
    46012989_2907960355905117_8494505263405989888_o.jpg
     
    PeterB likes this.
  5. fabiovenhorst

    fabiovenhorst One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,226
    Location:
    Gaspar - SC - Brazil
    Trying the vintage dinner suit. It fits. No adjustments. Trousers sit just perfect on my natural waist, the hem is correct. The jacket fits me well too.
    45986491_2910848182283001_3889320249211748352_o.jpg
    45893009_2910848245616328_6232043528415870976_o.jpg
    46144881_2910848342282985_1414963785822633984_o.jpg
     
  6. fabiovenhorst

    fabiovenhorst One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,226
    Location:
    Gaspar - SC - Brazil
    Official photo
    img-25.jpg
     
  7. PeterB

    PeterB One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    173
    Location:
    Abu Dhabi
    Very not to say extremely elegant. Square shoulders look great.
     
  8. Mathematicus

    Mathematicus A-List Customer

    Messages:
    377
    Location:
    Coventry, UK
    I got married last Saturday and I wanted to share my outfit!

    I wore a black tailcoat made by Montague Burton sometime in the 30s, a pair of dark grey herringbone trousers with fishtail back (bespoke made), a dove grey vest (also bespoke made) and a micro-check silver/black ascot tie with a wing detachable collar.

    I loved the fact that the heavy cloth of the tailcoat and trousers, paired with the very high armholes and close fit of the jacket made the pictures to come superbly, not a wrinkle on sight!

    Here's an example (taken at the end of the day and with a mobile phone, so not really representative). You can also see the bride on the right!

    [​IMG]
     
  9. Big Man

    Big Man My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,709
    Location:
    Nebo, NC

    Congratulations on your wedding. You look sharp, but standing near such a lovely bride can make anyone look good. :)
     
    Mathematicus likes this.
  10. Faux Brummell

    Faux Brummell New in Town

    Messages:
    16
    Last year we celebrated our first wedding anniversary with afternoon tea and as we reach our second, it’s officially a tradition! Here we are at the Baccarat Hotel. Baccarat Hotel.jpg
     
    PeterB, David Conwill and Big Man like this.

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.