Hat making?? Learning Millinery..

[LorenWho]

The only reason the hole size would matter is if you are using equipment that it would need to fit such as spinners, crown irons, sanders, etc. If you are doing everything by hand it doesn't make a difference. It's also easy enough to drill out a hole to make it larger if it needs to be.

I would like to stretch on a stand (a pipe or rod? Not sure what it is called)

 

[LorenWho]

I have refurbished all my vintage blocks. Filled the cracks & spidering with a good quality wood filler and then coating. They are now good for another generation of hat makers.

Yes, it looks like there is filler on one of these. Makes sense. Thanks

 

[wsmontana]

Here is my attempt to patch some moth holes (some that went all the way through the felt) on a 3X Beaver Resistol Western. I cut a full inch off the brim and this removed most of the moth damage. The crown had a handful of holes that I attempted to patch with plugs from the trimmed piece. As you can see, results were marginal. Any tips to improve the results?

On this next one I patched the hole with an oversized plug. Not sure that helped.

The resulting hat looks okay though and will make a nice beater.

 

[belfastboy]

The lighter colour the felt the more difficult it is. I have never been able to completely hide moth nibbles. Dark felts it can be done but on mid to light then less satisfactory results. If the nibble is all the way through I plug it. If it is a divot I fill and that is usually less visible than if I enlarge the hole by enlarging then plugging it. PS my apologies as I screwed up and forgot to post the ribbon. I have to go to the post office on Tuesday will post then.

Here is my attempt to patch some moth holes (some that went all the way through the felt) on a 3X Beaver Resistol Western. I cut a full inch off the brim and this removed most of the moth damage. The crown had a handful of holes that I attempted to patch with plugs from the trimmed piece. As you can see, results were marginal at best. Any tips to improve the results?


View attachment 600074 View attachment 600075 View attachment 600077 View attachment 600078

On this next one I patched the hole with an oversized plug. Not sure that helped.

View attachment 600079 View attachment 600080 View attachment 600081 View attachment 600083

The resulting hat looks okay though and will make a nice beater.

View attachment 600084

 

[wsmontana]

The lighter colour the felt the more difficult it is. I have never been able to completely hide moth nibbles. Dark felts it can be done but on mid to light then less satisfactory results. If the nibble is all the way through I plug it. If it is a divot I fill and that is usually less visible than if I enlarge the hole by enlarging then plugging it. PS my apologies as I screwed up and forgot to post the ribbon. I have to go to the post office on Tuesday will post then.

I’ve tried to fill divots but all the glues I tried will dry dark and make the patch seem worse than just leaving the bite as is (especially on lighter felt as you say).

Have you ever tried to patch a hole like a suture? That would solve the matching problem that comes with a plug (as in my case here) and it seems any glue could be mostly hidden.

No worries about the ribbon! I’m in no rush.

 

[belfastboy]

I have found the best glue is a spray craft glue from Michaels. I spray it on a piece of cardboard and put in very very small amount into the divot with a pointed toothpick. Then tamp in some felt fluff scraped from the inside of the hat. Tamp it in with the blunt end of the toothpick, a touch more glue, more tamping, etc, etc....
It is labouriously work but eventually the hole gets filled. If it is a through hole I fill it with a plug but have the plug thinner than the felt thickness so I can tamp in a bit of felt as a top coat. It is never perfect but I can get it so it cannot readily be seen unless pointed out.



I’ve tried to fill divots but all the glues I tried will dry dark and make the patch seem worse than just leaving the bite as is (especially on lighter felt as you say).

Have you ever tried to patch a hole like a suture? That would solve the matching problem that comes with a plug (as in my case here) and it seems any glue could be mostly hidden.

No worries about the ribbon! I’m in no rush.

 

[townaj]

Finally finished one of my hats. First full build, done. Ended up going with a Gus/Montana peak crown on it. The block is so straight sided that anything else looked a little funny. It would push the point of the crown out over the brim break
Fairly happy with it other than the ribbon. I need to find a source for high quality trims and even out the color a little more with some oil or something on the next one

 

[belfastboy]

Love the soft lines and the swoop to the brim and crown. I have spoken to a fellow hatter that is buying ribbon out of Japan. It is 100% rayon, no cotton content as in vintage, but she says it is very workable. Sells in full spools only, not by the yard, but it is much cheaper than the vintage by the yard sellers. The sell the good woven edge for men's hats not the millinery Petersham (scalloped edge)

Finally finished one of my hats. First full build, done. Ended up going with a Gus/Montana peak crown on it. The block is so straight sided that anything else looked a little funny. It would push the point of the crown out over the brim break
Fairly happy with it other than the ribbon. I need to find a source for high quality trims and even out the color a little more with some oil or something on the next one View attachment 600121 View attachment 600122

 

[LorenWho]

Love the soft lines and the swoop to the brim and crown. I have spoken to a fellow hatter that is buying ribbon out of Japan. It is 100% rayon, no cotton content as in vintage, but she says it is very workable. Sells in full spools only, not by the yard, but it is much cheaper than the vintage by the yard sellers. The sell the good woven edge for men's hats not the millinery Petersham (scalloped edge)

Lucky you! The selection of vintage ribbon is shrinking quickly

 

[townaj]

Love the soft lines and the swoop to the brim and crown. I have spoken to a fellow hatter that is buying ribbon out of Japan. It is 100% rayon, no cotton content as in vintage, but she says it is very workable. Sells in full spools only, not by the yard, but it is much cheaper than the vintage by the yard sellers. The sell the good woven edge for men's hats not the millinery Petersham (scalloped edge)

Thank you! It was challenging getting a decent finish out of the rabbit but I'm fairly happy with it all things considered. I really was trying to go with a classic western look to match the Gus crown.

 

[belfastboy]

The 3D print guy here in Vancouver has his ETSY shop up and running. I have worked with him to help dial in his products. The products are great and his pricing is super. I have ordered his rounding jack ...not that I needed another one but the damn thing works so well and the price cannot be beat. If you need any hatting tools check out "WalshDesigns3D" on Etsy.
I have no financial interest in this and receive no kickbacks or discounts. Just trying to help out a guy that offers great products at super pricing.

 

[Darrell2688]

Has anyone ever tried to dye Grosgrain Ribbon rayon cotton blend?

I have been checking out the idea of dyeing the ribbon and the best way that I have found so far is to use fibre reactive dye, and the combination that might work would be brown dye with a touch of black dye, this might be a challenge the color that I am looking for is almost black, a deep dark brown. The best way to dye the ribbon might be a cold dye because Ithe ribbon is a blend of rayon and cotton and hot water might damage the rayon in the ribbon.

I have been looking for some Grosgrain Ribbon rayon cotton blend 1 1/2" or 38mm wide in a dark Espresso color, or a very dark brown color, straight edge and so far the only grosgrain ribbon that I have found that is even close to the color is Petersham and I am not interested in using Petersham.

 

[belfastboy]

Has anyone ever tried to dye Grosgrain Ribbon rayon cotton blend?

I have been checking out the idea of dyeing the ribbon and the best way that I have found so far is to use fibre reactive dye, and the combination that might work would be brown dye with a touch of black dye, this might be a challenge the color that I am looking for is almost black, a deep dark brown. The best way to dye the ribbon might be a cold dye because Ithe ribbon is a blend of rayon and cotton and hot water might damage the rayon in the ribbon.

I have been looking for some Grosgrain Ribbon rayon cotton blend 1 1/2" or 38mm wide in a dark Espresso color, or a very dark brown color, straight edge and so far the only grosgrain ribbon that I have found that is even close to the color is Petersham and I am not interested in using Petersham.

I have had good success dyeing vintage grosgrain using Acid dye, (CIBA or Jacquard brand). The hot water water might get you a bit of shrinkage in the length but that is about it. You would have to experiment with the dye recipe but you are on the right track of using dark brown and adding just a pinch of black to darken it further. Just make sure your vat is either stainless steel or enameled steel. The acid dye will react to other metals like aluminum or cast iron.

 

[Darrell2688]

I just ordered 2 bottles of Jacquard Procion Fiber Reactive powder dye, 1 is chocolate brown and the other jet black, I will use the dyes on some white grosgrain ribbon, I just have to figure out a proper mix of the 2 to get the color that I want. I tried to find the dye at a local store, but had to order it from JoAnn fabrics.

I ordered some Fuller's Earth yesterday, I am going to try my hand at giving a Indiana Jones Raiders fedora that I just finished a weathered look, the brim is turned down in the front, brim is almost flat in the back and the sides are sligtly turned up.

 

[Darrell2688]

The 3D print guy here in Vancouver has his ETSY shop up and running. I have worked with him to help dial in his products. The products are great and his pricing is super. I have ordered his rounding jack ...not that I needed another one but the damn thing works so well and the price cannot be beat. If you need any hatting tools check out "WalshDesigns3D" on Etsy.
I have no financial interest in this and receive no kickbacks or discounts. Just trying to help out a guy that offers great products at super pricing.

I checked out WalshDesigns3D on Etsy and from what I can see , this Etsy shop should do great on sales, I looked at a hat block that is offered for sale the shape makes me think of the Indiana Jones Temple of Doom fedora shape with the shipping cost, I am guessing that the total would be around $100.00 after taxes. Looks good to me.

 

[belfastboy]

I just ordered 2 bottles of Jacquard Procion Fiber Reactive powder dye, 1 is chocolate brown and the other jet black, I will use the dyes on some white grosgrain ribbon, I just have to figure out a proper mix of the 2 to get the color that I want. I tried to find the dye at a local store, but had to order it from JoAnn fabrics.

I ordered some Fuller's Earth yesterday, I am going to try my hand at giving a Indiana Jones Raiders fedora that I just finished a weathered look, the brim is turned down in the front, brim is almost flat in the back and the sides are sligtly turned up.

Check out the directions as there are other ingredients needed as well to condition the fabric and the water.