Help Transitioning Up!

[masterecon]

I am trying to transition into a more dressed-up look overall. I am 34 and an assistant professor in the Midwest at a large state university. I currently have been researching clothes and fashion and have decided (personally) that I want to transition into a more dressed-up dignified look. My current wardrobe, given the flexibility at the unversity level, is mostly khakis with polos and button-up shirts. I tend to only wear a tie when I have meetings off campus, but I am willing to make this change all around. I really do want to transition into a more dignified look and am committed to it. I want to put together, say a personal dress code, that I can wear to work, at home, and on the weekends. My wife likes the idea, as well, and is on board. Please provide any suggestions and be specific as you want. Some points I am thinking about, in the form of questions include:

1. What kind of outfits would you put together that might fit this criteria, or would you do something different? What specific elements/ensembles would you suggest (e.g. sport coat or suit everyday)? I am looking for a kind of dress code or plan to follow. I plan on replacing my wardrobe completely over the coming months.

2. Would you wear a tie everyday of the week (work, home, etc.)? I know this would be a change, but am willing and wanting to move this direction if need be. I am open to ties, bow ties, etc.

3. What would you do as temperatures rise in the summer?

4. How about keeping the same style for weekends and after work? Cleaning, sleeping, and athletic sports to be excluded.

5. Given my geographic location, any ideas on a "western look"?

In addition, please provide any advice on transitioning to the new looks. Please post any pics as well, if needed. Thanks for any help you can provide!

 

[scottyrocks]

I'll be watching this one as I'd like to do a little wardrobe updating, and have a basic look in mind.

 

[fluteplayer07]

1.) Dress trousers, dress shirts (no button down collars! - but that's just me), a classy vintage tie, braces, and a sport coat, perhaps? There's no specific rules, just whatever you feel comfortable in. Us here are going to be suggesting lots of vintage elements, though.

2.) Look on the 'What Are You Wearing Today' thread for inspiration. But one look I frequently sport is a dress shirt with no tie, collar over lapels on a sport coat. And a fedora.

3.) Cool wearing dress shirts, linen trousers, and a tie. I roll up my sleeves and loosen my tie with the top button of my shirt undone. I also wear my prescription Browliner sunglasses and a straw fedora.

4.) Why not? It's classy.

5.)

Welcome into the Lounge, I see it's your first post.


P.S. - A nice pair of wingtip bluchers (for casual wear), or some well polished cap-toes (for dressier occasions) never hurt, either. Some spectators or white suede bucks in the summer would be nice, even though I don't have the money for that too.


Cheers,

 

[FinnSpinn]

I wouldn't suit up immediately. Everyone will ask you if you are going to a wedding or a funeral. I started with a set of good classic shirts (no button down!), and good shoes (oxfords or derby's). If you want to stand out right away I can recommend a pair of two tones or spectators. Combine this with a jeans, and people will hardly notice. Later you can rev it up by adding an occasional tie, woolen pants, a slip over, vest, etc. Tips: get to know about classic fabrics, and make sure the clothes fit. No fit?, no buy! (Unless you know someone to make it fit). As for headware: an ivy cap or a trilby are good staring points. Although most people here will probably recommend you a fedora.

 

[dwebber18]

I too would take it a little at a time to start developing your new style that suits your tastes. I typically wear khakis and a polo or button down each day of the week. My office is quite casual and this makes me much better dressed than my peers. However when going out with my wife or on weekends I'll wear some nicer items since I'm not just sitting at my desk. I'd start with a few items at a time and move on from there. I'd suggest getting a couple pairs of wool dress pants and cotton dress shirts(don't listen to all the guys about not buying button down collars, if you like them, they are classic) and some nicer shoes. You don't have to go overboard, Allen-Edmonds will do and you can call their shoe bank and find a good discount. I'd say a pair of dressier shoes and a pair that's more casual. Say a captoe, wingtip and a loafer and that should pretty much cover you to get going. Work it in with the styles, fits, and colors that suit you and go from there. After dress shirts and pants I'd get some sport coats and work those in as well and fall is a great time to do that. From there move in to suits and wear those some as well. As it gets hotter just switch to lighter weight fabrics and a panama hat, granted if you're wearing a suit you'll still be pretty warm even if it's a seersucker or linen summer suit. Really just find the style that works for you, right now I'm layering dress shirts with sweaters and khakis or dress pants. I'm learning too, and really trying to find out how nicer clothes work in to my life. Its easy when your wife is on board, my wife really likes that I dress nicer than many other guys and she has even started to dress better herself to compliment me. There is also a big component of confidence that you have to have to stand out from the crowd. I've been asked many times if I've got an interview, or why I would wear a dress shirt just to have Thanksgiving dinner with my family who came in to town. Its just as easy to wear nicer khakis or dress pants as it is to wear jeans and a t-shirt and that's how I look at it.

 

[dhermann1]

The classic Ivy League professor look is tweedy tweedy tweedy. There's a reason for this, comfort. A good tweed jacket, maybe one with leather elbow patches, can be like a home away from home. The pockets will hold all sorts of useful things.
The key thing about wearing a tie on a regular basis is to have shirts that really fit, especially around the collar. Find a shirt brand that you like so you'll know the fit is correct. There's nothing more miserable than a collar that's just slightly too tight. That's why top buttons get unbuttoned. I think for a college environment button down collars are perfectly appropriate.
If you want to get into the "classic" British standards, then think it terms of what an English gentleman (of the somewhat mythical bygone age) would wear for country, rather than city. That would mean more patterned jackets (i.e. tweed, or Glen Plaid) corduroy trousers, etc. Corduroy sport coats can also be nice. I don't think you want to look like you work on Wall St., or in "The City". So dark charcoal pinstriped banker suits would not be called for.
In winter a duffel coat could be great where you are, especially one with a hood. They're heavy and warm. And look totally cool.
If you feel comfortable in a fedora, then go for it. If you don't own one, maybe you could pick up an inexpensive wool felt one and wear it around for a while. YOU WILL GET REACTIONS! See if you start digging the feeling. I predict that you will. But when it gets chilly out there on the western plains, you'll need to let survival dictate your fashion choices. There are several styles heavy wool driving caps that have earflaps that button under the chin. LL Bean used to sell them, I assume they still do. I love them. And they were born to go with duffel coats.
If you do get a suit for occasional wear, I believe plaid is more popular in the midwest than stripes, which are more East coast. A full tweed suit can be very spiffy.
For foot wear, I can't add much to what was said above. If you like wingtips, they're great. Again, comfort and quality are what you want.
Oh, and ties! That's where you can really show some personality. I have about 50 vintage ties. There are guys here that have many times that number. You can find them on Ebay at surprisingly good prices. I really like wool ties, and knit ties. I think they look great with that dressed up but not big city look I'm describing. But there's nothing wrong with contemporary ties. Becoming a tie nut can be a lot of fun.
After you do your first big clothes shopping expedition, post some pics so we can CRITIQUE.

 

[dhermann1]

Just a follow up regarding summer. I know it can get bloody hot out there in summer. As nice as it would be to think of wearing a summer suit, the reality is that you'll melt. But linen and seersucker are about the most comfortable summer weight fabrics there are. And I second the panama hat suggestion. Get one from good old Panamabob.com. Almost every guy in the Lounge is a happy customer of his.
For summer footwear my mother always told me to get hueraches. They were huge when she was in college in the late 30's. And I've been meaning to for decades. They're super cool and comfortable (I'm told) and have a great 30's - 40's style to them.
And if you really want to go whole hog, add a guayabera to the panama and hueraches.

 

[Undertow]

I am trying to transition into a more dressed-up look overall...

Welcome to the Lounge! As others have noted, you should most definitely spend a few hours just taking in threads (old and new) about current dress, vintage dress, styles, fashions, etc. It's difficult to throw a shopping list at you without instilling certain principles you can only acquire on your own (e.g. purchasing 100% wool suit over, say, 54% Rayon 46% Polyester).

For your research:
Start Here: Links to Important Threads
Businessman's Wardrobe
The Big Sticky: Catalog Scans and Other Useful Threads

There were some other threads I was going to recommend but it appears they were lost in the transition from one board to the next. [huh] I think it's a fine idea to begin dressing well (vintage, classy; however you want to put it). You'll find a great wealth of knoweldge and alot of passion on this board.

 

[Tomasso]

(no button down collars!)

(no button down!).

Interesting, I would consider the BD collar to be classic style for an academic; worn with a tweed or corduroy jacket....flannel, twill, corduroy trousers and jeans.....with a silk or wool knit tie.....shell cordovan or brown suede wingtips.....maybe a sweater vest thrown in on occasion..

 

[Baron Kurtz]

hmm, yes, nothing wrong with button down collars. A classic campus look.

bk

 

[KILO NOVEMBER]

Polish your shoes!

Learn how to polish your shoes, and keep them polished and in good repair. I find that I wear heels very quickly, so when the rubber layer at the bottom gets close the the leather, I take them to my local repairman, and for $20, I get them replaced. Nothing looks shabbier than run down shoes.

 

[masterecon]

To tie or not to tie?

I guess one question that arises is: Should I wear a tie while at work as a rule? I don't have to, but if I "suit up" I definitely would. I like some of the pictures that have been posted. I haven't done so on a continuous basis, but would be interested and happy to make the switch. I agree that my shirt collars would need to be properly sized, and I do make sure of this when buying new dress shirts. I would definitley be the "unique dresser" in my department, but I don't think it would be looked down upon too much. When I have dressed up in the past, I mostly recieve comments, with some friendly jibes, but all in good humor. I have asked some students and they said it really does not matter and would be rare, but they would appreciate it. I think the trick is to not come off as "Mr. Wall Street" as was mentioned in an earlier reply.

I was playing with the idea of carrying a more dressed-up look home, as well. I know the tie and coat could and probably should come off, but what about switching to a more casual outfit, with sweater/vest and knit/wool tie. A thought?!? This could be easily spruced up if going out.

I have been looking at the bow ties, as well. I have worn them before, so do now how to tie them. My first job was in the South! I did have a couple, but have since parted with them (for some forgotten reason), but I do regret it. I definitely got comments from these, even when I wore them down there. I wouldn't mind picking some of these up again. What do you suggest? I would like to keep to the more thinner bows. Do they make bows in knit or wool? Are these more casual?

Again, thanks for the all the advice as I begin this exploration.

 

[Yeps]

Bowties are always fantastic, I wear one at least every Friday.

I would say one of the easiest things to dressing sharper, even when casual, is wearing slacks, instead of jeans or khakis. That is not to say that jeans and khakis don't have their place, but slacks don't get enough use and they will automatically upgrade your look. That and real shoes, but I think you already mentioned that.

Clothes that really fit you go a long way too.

 

[Marla]

I don't have any specific clothing suggestions, but here is a common sartorial mistake many of my male professors make (the ones that dress up for work that is):
wearing a button-down shirt, tie, slacks, and a sports jacket with...black tennis shoes. If you're going to dress up, do it properly and wear leather shoes.

 

[Undertow]

I guess one question that arises is: Should I wear a tie while at work as a rule? ...
...When I have dressed up in the past, I mostly recieve comments, with some friendly jibes, but all in good humor...I think the trick is to not come off as "Mr. Wall Street" as was mentioned in an earlier reply.

1. Yes; wear a tie to work as a rule. If you are going to take this endeavor seriously, then you should commit to some of the more essential principles.
2. Excuse or ignore any comments regarding your choice in style. I know we at the FLounge have wrestled with others' choices of clothing (see the Hipster thread which nearly melted down) for good or worse - it's more or less an aspect of living in a diverse society. That said, your choice of classic style over "fleeting fashion" not only communicates your professionalism, but also your desire to invoke a weathered tradition of durable and pleasant clothing. There's nothing humorous about it, even if all the rubes at work donning sweat pants and crocs think it's hilarious.

Regarding button collars, there's certainly nothing wrong with those (as the others more wise than I have already noted). They supposedly originated from a design used by polo players, buttons of course holding down the flaps of the collar. I suppose you could view them as a "sport" type of shirt, thus less formal, but if that be the case, then tweed falls in the same category. Whatever the situation, tweeds with button down collars are quite acceptable and certainly professional, so please don't limit yourself from those shirts.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

I think the trick is to not come off as "Mr. Wall Street" as was mentioned in an earlier reply.

I think vintage ties and/or wool ties would do the trick. They just look different from modern ties. I would almost say they have more soul.

Also wearin suits other than black and grey. some mentioned tweed. sounds good to me.

 

[MikeBravo]

I think the polo shirt can be worn with a jacket

Kelsey Grammer looked quite smart with a polo shirt and jacket in Frazier

 

[1961MJS]

I think the polo shirt can be worn with a jacket

Kelsey Grammer looked quite smart with a polo shirt and jacket in Frazier

Hi

I've seen some of my management wear a polo shirt and jacket. Personally, it looks bad because it doesn't match. Shirts that button all the way up and down go with jackets. Tennis shoes and a suit looks equally bad (I've seen it so I know). Heck, I saw a guy wearing an XXL polo shirt on his Medium body, with a tie. The polo shirt was thin, and he was wearing a pizza delivery t-shirt as an undershirt. He pants were high water, and you cold see that his tube socks didn't match.

That sounds horrible doesn't it?

Now I'm going to make it worse. I'm NOT KIDDING. We called the guy the Prince of Polyester. He only shopped at Goodwill and is an aerospace engineer.

 

[Hal]

1. Yes; wear a tie to work as a rule. If you are going to take this endeavor seriously, then you should commit to some of the more essential principles.
2. Excuse or ignore any comments regarding your choice in style...your choice of classic style over "fleeting fashion" not only communicates your professionalism, but also your desire to invoke a weathered tradition of durable and pleasant clothing.

I emphatically agree with both of the above points

...wool ties would do the trick.

Wool ties are actualy better than silk ones with tweed suits or sports jackets.

 

[Kevin Popejoy]

Learn how to polish your shoes, and keep them polished and in good repair. I find that I wear heels very quickly, so when the rubber layer at the bottom gets close the the leather, I take them to my local repairman, and for $20, I get them replaced. Nothing looks shabbier than run down shoes.

My rules:

1. Shoes, shoes, shoes. This is probably my biggest investment. Buy several pairs and buy quality shoes that can be repaired. That means leather soles. I make it a rule never to wear the same pair 2 days in a row. They need a rest day if you want them to last. I have topy's installed on all my leather soled shoes prior to wearing them. When the rubber wears down it's easy to replace. I have dress shoes in my closet that I've been wearing for 20 years and they just get better with age. As mentioned before, polish them routinely. There's no point in wearing good shoes if you won't maintain them properly. And get some matching belts.

2. Wear a decent watch. Leave the rubber and plastic sport watch for the gym.

3. Always wear a tie to work, and button that top button. If you get the urge to unbutton and loosen the tie just remove the tie. If you've removed the tie that means you're not at work.

4. Figure out your size and buy good dress shirts that fit. Collars that are too big/small or sleeves that are too long/short just look crappy. Make the effort to get it right. Collar and cuff style is personal preference. The collar frames the face and you'll find some look better on you than others. "Short sleeve dress shirt" is an oxymoron. Always wear an under shirt if you want your dress shirts to last. Even in summer...especially in summer. Believe it or not, you'll be more comfortable in the heat if you're wearing a cotton undershirt. Undershirts mean no stained pits.

5. Same idea with slacks, get the size right. Pleats and cuffs can look great if you're built for it i.e., slim and long legs. If you have short legs the cuffs will emphasize that. Pleats can make you look like you have a big ass...unless it's obvious that you don't. A little break at the cuff is OK but don't over do it. A good tailor is worth finding.

6. Learn to iron your clothes. I can press a shirt is less than 5 minutes...it's not that hard if you learn a few tricks. I keep my ironing board propped in my closet and iron the days clothes every morning. It's part of my morning ritual. Don't use starch. Decent shirts don't have to be expensive but starch will wear them out prematurely.

7. Learn how to properly launder your clothes. Shirts go in the gentle cycle with Woolite separate from slacks, underwear and such. I always use "Shout" on the collars...every time. I never have to trash a shirt because it has a ring around the collar. I don't buy dry clean only slacks for work. There are excellent washable fabrics available that look good and are durable. I work in these clothes and fine wool slacks just don't hold up that well...and I don't like the dry cleaning bills. I leave the fine wool for special occasions.

Don't get me started on hats and coats.

Kevin