How large can I go? (Suit Sizes pre-tailor)

[NY_Confidential]

Hi Guys!

I haven't done much suit shopping, ever, let alone have I had a tailor make something fit for me since I was about 7 yrs old. (I'm 25 now)

I took some rough measurements the other day and came up with this:

Chest: 40"
Sleeve: 23"
Length: 22" (does that sound right? I'm 5'7" and I think maybe I measured incorrectly)

as for shoulders, I haven't had anyone around to help me out with that measurement.



The question was.. as the thread title says.. when I'm shopping around for a suit online, what can I expect to be my limits? For instance.. if I buy a suit with sleeves about 26", is that too long to be fixed by the tailor? Or a Chest size 42", can it be taken in enough? I noticed that some 38 Short's would fit me according to a 38S having a 40" chest? or is that wrong too?

I'm so lost when it comes to this stuff. Just trying to figure out what would be within a good range to be able to have a suit tailored for me, so that I might begin buying.

Thanks in Adv.

 

[Bird's One View]

Is your 40" chest measurement your actual chest measurement, or the measurement of a jacket you already have? If your chest actually is 40" you will not be comfrortable in a jacket with a 40" (measured) chest.

All jackets measure larger than their tagged size. The size is, in theory, the chest measurement of a man that jacket would fit.

Stay away from a size 42.

Jacket length is usually measured from the base of the collar straight down the back seam. At 5'7" , look for a jacket about 29 - 30" long (or measure one that you like). Some ebay sellers include the collar when they measure jacket length, which adds about 1.5 inches.

Sleeve length can be adjusted but in your example, reducing a 26" sleeve to 23", you would lose most (maybe all) of the sleeve vent.

 

[NY_Confidential]

Is your 40" chest measurement your actual chest measurement, or the measurement of a jacket you already have? If your chest actually is 40" you will not be comfrortable in a jacket with a 40" chest.

All jackets measure larger than their tagged size. The size is, in theory, the chest measurement of a man that jacket would fit.

Stay away from a size 42.

Jacket length is usually measured from the base of the collar straight down the back seam. At 5'7" , look for a jacket about 29 - 30" long (or measure one that you like). Some ebay sellers include the collar when they measure jacket length, which adds about 1.5 inches.

Sleeve length can be adjusted but in your example, reducing a 26" sleeve to 23", you would lose most (maybe all) of the sleeve vent.

Hey Bird's,

Yes, I measured my actual chest to be 40" (if not larger, by maybe 1/4" or 3/8")
See, the thing is, I have no jackets that I like. I mean, what I have fits decent, but I wouldn't go so far as to say I'm *thrilled* with the fit -- it just "works".

I do have a size 42 USAF dress-blues (mid 90s, bought of eBay for a project that never worked out) but it is HUGE on me.

So, yes. definitely staying away from that.
I bought that thing when I was about 145lbs, now I'm around 165 -- it's still rather big.

29-30" -- sounds good to me, it's about what I was thinking (after reading a size guide) . I figured my 22" measurement of myself was off. I have a 36S WWII US Army Air Corps jacket which I could barely squeeze myself into up until I gained 20 lbs. It fit like a corset. -- its length was maybe 2" or 3" too short for my taste (although maybe period correct) - I'll go measure it and get back to you guys on that.

As for sleeve vent? I didn't even think about those! Thanks for reminding me, you're right.. I'd have to find something shorter to begin with.

I have fit in a 16, but those feel slightly tight on me (arms forward).


Thanks for all the help.. I'll measure the length of that jacket, check some sizes on things that "work" but I'm not thrilled with, and see what I come up with..

look forward to more suggestions from the board!


thanks!

 

[Tomasso]

Length: 22" (does that sound right?

shakeshead

Here, ponder this.

 

[Orgetorix]

There are, generally, four crucial measurements you should be aware of when looking at jackets: Shoulder width, chest circumference, coat length, and sleeve length.

Shoulder width, also called the point-to-point, can be measured two ways. The first is, with the jacket laid flat, straight across the shoulder blades from shoulder seam to shoulder seam. This is shown by the blue tape measure below.

The other way is from the shoulder seam to the bottom of the collar, over to the other shoulder seam (see the red line in the picture). This method is easiest when the jacket is on a form or on a person's body, and this is generally what tailors use to measure point-to-point for made-to-measure clothing. The two methods will produce measurements that vary, but not by a lot.

The chest measurement is taken with the jacket laid flat, from armpit to armpit at the widest point. Double the measured length to find the chest circumference.

The coat length is measured straight down the center back seam from the bottom of the collar to the bottom of the coat hem. Beware; some people measure from the top of the collar, which can add 1.5 inches or more to the measured length. When I'm looking at jackets online, I always ask how this measurement was done if it isn't clearly specified.

The sleeve length is taken from the top of the sleeve at the shoulder seam down to the end of the sleeve.

If your chest measures 40" and you're 5'7", most likely you'll wear about a 40 Short jacket. A 40 short will typically be around 18-18.5" in the shoulders, 44" in the chest, 29" in the length, and 23-24" in the sleeve length.

Of these measurements, the sleeve length is the easiest to alter (provided the jacket doesn't have working buttonholes). The shoulders and chest are very difficult to alter successfully, and it generally isn't recommended. The length of the jacket can be shortened, but usually not by more than an inch or so without throwing off the proportions.

You might think about going down to your local thrift store and trying on jackets until you find one that you think fits well in the chest, shoulders, and coat length. Then measure it and see what you come up with.

(Photo credit goes to Andrew Harris.)

 

[Orgetorix]

And...Tomasso beat me to it.

 

[Tomasso]

^^

But you made much more of an effort.

 

[NY_Confidential]

Still here, still here...

just stopping in to put forth my appreciation to the well thought out answers contained in the thread!

Tomorrow afternoon or evening I will try and find something to measure, to compare to what was said about average sizes of a 40 Short.


Thanks guys!

 

[Edward]

If it helps, when looking at eBay auctions, see if they have actual measurements of the jacket itself. I am a 42" chest, and I have jackets with inner pit to pit measurements of anywhere between 44" and 47". FWIW, in vintage wear, I often find a Size up - for me a 44 - fits better, where 44 is definitely too big in most modern stuff. (When I say vintage there, I mean up to the 50s.... I'm not into 60s and later, so I can't really comment on that).

 

[NY_Confidential]

So I measured a suit that fits sort of well. It's a tad bit big. (meaning I think the shoulders are a little big and the sleeves are a little long, and the length is sort of long too)

I came up with: (and these are with the suit laying flat on my bed, all 3 buttons buttoned)

Shoulders: 19½"
Armpit to Armpit: 21½"
Sleeves: 24"
Length: 30½"

So I'm figuring based on some things I saw for sale in the 38 Short categories... that a 38S would maybe be best for me, as long as it has some room for adjustment?

Does this sound about right?

I don't know what the size of this actual suit I just measured is, as it has no label inside of it. I'm guessing it's a 40R?

I guess I really should go into a freakin' store and have someone fit something... that would make sense, huh? But now at least I know where to start looking!

 

[kuwisdelu]

So I measured a suit that fits sort of well. It's a tad bit big. (meaning I think the shoulders are a little big and the sleeves are a little long, and the length is sort of long too)

I came up with: (and these are with the suit laying flat on my bed, all 3 buttons buttoned)

Shoulders: 19½"
Armpit to Armpit: 21½"
Sleeves: 24"
Length: 30½"

So I'm figuring based on some things I saw for sale in the 38 Short categories... that a 38S would maybe be best for me, as long as it has some room for adjustment?

Does this sound about right?

I don't know what the size of this actual suit I just measured is, as it has no label inside of it. I'm guessing it's a 40R?

I guess I really should go into a freakin' store and have someone fit something... that would make sense, huh? But now at least I know where to start looking!

Stick to a 40S. If you *actual* chest measurement is 40", a 38 will be too small. Look for 18 - 18.5" shoulders instead (just a guess... have someone measure you're own shoulders if you can.) If a 40S still feels roomy, it's generally easier to take things in/shorten them than to take them out/make them longer. Try on a 38S in person (after all, you could simply have measured slightly off) but don't buy one online until you know it isn't too small.