McGregor Sportswear/David D Doniger civilian jackets from the 1940s

[Dr H]

A while ago, I posted the following images of a David D Doniger/McGregor Sportswear AN-J-3, a civilian example of the short-lived attempt to address the flight jacket needs of both the army and navy - with some elements of both the A-2 and later naval jackets (e.g. the AN-J-3A or M-422A) bi-swing back, rayon lining without the mouton collar. The jacket was made by David D Doniger around 1943 and bears the label of the commercial arm of the business, McGregor Sportswear.

I have just picked up a similar M-422/M-422A from the same company, of similar vintage.

 

[Dr H]

These are images of a McGregor Sportswear/David D Doniger M-422/M-422A.

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The shell is a thick, soft capeskin - the grain was incredibly subtle and very similar to my former McGregor AN-J-3. This example retains more of its original surface finish.

The pockets are wide with a pen slot in the left one (like a M-422A), pale brown horn buttons on the pockets and the underside of the collar.

The sleeves are rotated and inset with underarm expansion (each with three underarm grommets).

The collar has a typical Doniger profile with narrow points, but has a mouton facing in common with the contemporaneous naval jackets. There are three horizontal lines of stitching across the underside of the rear of the collar. It has the same folded hanger loop as the Doniger A-2 and a 'V' shaped throat flap; all other details appear to be the same as the AN-J-3 pattern.

Doniger had one wartime contract for 5,000 A-2 jackets (W535 AC 29971 42-21539P) and Gary Eastman cites the cost per jacket as $8.15. This is widely acknowledged as being among the most elegant of A-2 patterns and tailored to a high level of finish. One assumes that Doniger ran up and put forward AN-J-3 and M-422 patterns for consideration, but these were not taken forward, perhaps on the basis of cost. Does anybody else have any information to support this point of view?

 

[simonc]

Beauties!

 

[Dinerman]