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New Bespoke Tweed Trousers

Mario

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,664
Location
Little Istanbul, Berlin, Germany
My 1930's linen trousers served as a general pattern with a few added/modified features.

- 13.7 oz. beige flecked Donegal tweed from John Molloy
- English/forward pleats
- Fishtail back
- Button Fly
- Dropped belt loops
- Side adjusters
- Flapped watch pocket (actually measured for my Zippo... ;))
- Two back pockets, one of them flapped
- On-seam side pockets
- Internal suspender buttons
- Slightly lowered crotch (as found on vintage German trousers), making for approx. 15" front/17" back rise
- 2" cuffs
- 10" leg opening

They are virtually finished with just a few things that need to get addressed.


tweed_trousers_beige.jpg



Buckles and vintage bakelite buttons

buttons_buckles-1.jpg



Close-up of the fabric

fabric_large.jpg



Front view (worn with braces)

front.jpg



Side view (worn with braces)

side.jpg

 
Last edited:

Chasseur

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,494
Location
Hawaii
Mario,
Simply excellent! :eusa_clap

I like that tweed as well. On the whole how was the experience? Did things go smoothly with the tailor or did you have to do a great deal of walking through what you wanted?

I've had a few trousers copied in the past couple of years and I find trousers (unlike jackets) normally go smoothly with modern tailors.
 

Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
Messages
13,719
Location
USA
Nice pants; love the fabric. They're sure not ever going to fall down with all that rigging on the waistband.......:p
 

Mario

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,664
Location
Little Istanbul, Berlin, Germany
Thank you, gents! :)


Very nice!

Were the ones you had them copied from German? I've seen such a little flapped waistband pocket on many pairs of German trousers.

bk

No, I believe the linen trousers came from the US originally but part of the inspiration came from German trousers. I took the general pattern, dropped the beltloops, lowered the crotch, pulled up the back slightly, added the fishtail, the side adjusters and a lower flap to the button fly. I also added the flaps to the pockets and described to Nicola the shape I had in mind. The linen trousers have a watch pocket too but it's unflapped. Same for the back pockets. I guess this has become some sort of a hybrid model... ;)
 
Last edited:

Mario

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,664
Location
Little Istanbul, Berlin, Germany
Mario,
Simply excellent! :eusa_clap

I like that tweed as well. On the whole how was the experience? Did things go smoothly with the tailor or did you have to do a great deal of walking through what you wanted?

I've had a few trousers copied in the past couple of years and I find trousers (unlike jackets) normally go smoothly with modern tailors.

It did go pretty smooth actually, yes. Nicola has made a few vintage styled trousers before for Rudie so I was more or less on the safe side by the time I commissioned mine. :D There are a few minor details that will need her attention but that should be done easily.
 
Last edited:

Rudie

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,069
Location
Berlin
Yes. Some details are different. They have the german style side pockets. But they are quite similar. The rise of yours seems to be a tad higher, too. Looks very good to me. I think she learned a lot from making the trousers I commissioned.
 

Bugsy

One Too Many
Messages
1,126
Location
Sacramento/San Francisco Bay Area
My 1930's linen trousers served as a general pattern with a few added/modified features.

- 13.7 oz. beige flecked Donegal tweed from John Molloy
- English/forward pleats
- Fishtail back
- Button Fly
- Dropped belt loops
- Side adjusters
- Flapped watch pocket (actually measured for my Zippo... ;))
- Two back pockets, one of them flapped
- On-seam side pockets
- Internal suspender buttons
- Slightly lowered crotch (as found on vintage German trousers), making for approx. 15" front/17" back rise
- 2" cuffs
- 10" leg opening

They are virtually finished with just a few things that need to get addressed.


tweed_trousers_beige.jpg



Buckles and vintage bakelite buttons

buttons_buckles-1.jpg



Close-up of the fabric

fabric_large.jpg



Front view(worn with braces)

front.jpg



Side view (worn with braces)

side.jpg


Very elegant, but we've come to expect nothing less from you!!
 

Flat Foot Floey

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,220
Location
Germany
Very nice, Mario. Even if they have a lot of extras and "all that rigging on the waistband" they still don't look like fancy pants. :D Just good, sturdy tweed pants.
 

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