Original A-1 style jacket. Size 44. 1930s

[Baron Kurtz]

I have available an approximately size 44 A-1 style jacket. It has a very old Lightning zipper closure. I don't have my own pictures yet, but it looks exactly like one that's currently doing the rounds at a certain auction website. I've stolen the pictures from that listing. Mine is almost identical to this one, except that mine has an elasticated waistband. Also, mine is in pretty near mint condition, spectacularly rare for a British jacket of this era. It is made of very light leather - probably lamb or calf skin, as is typical of this era for British jackets. The lightweight nature of the hide is considered the main reason british leather is so hard to come by. It makes the jackets very light and confortable, but it shreds so easily! (see pic 2 below of someone elses jacket, and the shoulder damage.) To reiterate the leather on mine is flawless. More to come later. It's about 23" across the front chest and 20" shoulders.

 

[havocpaul]

Am very intererested in seeing your pics and the price you're asking as been looking for a similar jacket, I am in London/Kent.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Sure. I'll get pics and full measurements up later today.

[edit] whoops, I forgot to bring my pics to work, and I also forgot to bring my little book with the measurements I took, so it'll have to be tomorrow.

bk

 

[scotrace]

Innerested.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Cool. It's a beauty.

Talking of beauties, i have finally a suit description to send you Scott. A little white number we both know about.

bk

 

[tonypaj]

If this is wearable in the summer, I'm also interested...

 

[Baron Kurtz]

It's wool lined, so probably not for summer wear.

bk

 

[Baron Kurtz]

OK, here goes. Pics tomorrow.

Chest: 23.5"
Shoulders: 20"
Arms: 23.25"
Length: 22" to bottom of leather, 24" to bottom of knit waistband.

bk

 

[scotrace]

i have finally a suit description to send you Scott. A little white number we both know about.

bk

OK. I've got it tucked safely away.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Alright then, some pictures. Gents I don't think I'm too crazy to ask £350 for this jacket, but if you think I've gone a bit mental feel free to make a reasonable offer. This is a spectacular example of a very rare style. The leather is in almost immaculate condition, all the more remarkable as it's such lightweight hide - probably lamb or calf. So few British leather jackets survive from this era, partly because they were made of such easily-damageable hide. When you do find them they're generally trashed. This is a real rarity. The zipper needs to be reattached in a number of places but this is a minor job.

The front, highlighting the classic patch pockets with buttoned flaps. See the bottom for these buttons, guys. They are spectacular buttons. I suspect they're Corozo, but i'll be getting them under a microscope tomorrow to have a look-see. Also showing the mandarin-type collar, and the cuffs. And the obvious knit waistband unlike the one above. There are two vent grommets at each armpit, to the front of the side seam.

3 panel rear and 2 panel arms. Interesting mismatching of colour on panels, especially on the collar back it's quite evident.

A close-up of the collar area. You can also see the knit wool lining. That hole is where, i think, a label was attached. There is another hole at about the right position to suggest these were where the ends of a rectangular label were attached. See below for close-ups of the zipper; it's a good 'un. The collar is lined in almost corduroy material. It isn't really corduroy, but it's getting there. Ribbed and appears to be cotton.

Pocket flap. Lovely buttons.

Here's the front of the zipper. Puller and stopper box are a quite early Lightning variant. I can post pics of a slightly later Lightning, where the slider looks more like a Lightning, rather than this one that looks much more like a Talon. The stopper box is also different from the later Lightnings, which usually had vertical ribbing.

And the rear. Look at the huge curved portion at the top of the slider. This is where the one-piece cast slider was folded over to complete the engineering process. What a piece of work!

An attempt to give more detail of the knit cuff. In green, black and white elasticated material.

And the cuffs. These are very nicely constructed, and lined with the same cream wool as the rest of the jacket. Look at that little securing button on the interior where the button is attached. Nice touch!

AND FINALLY! Those buttons. Absolute works of art. Really beautiful orange buttons throughout (both pocket and cuff buttons match), with an apparently natural swirl pattern that suggests to me that they're Corozo. Lovely. Shows up the grain of the leather quite nicely too.

 

[havocpaul]

A lovely jacket indeed and not too expensive for its age. Shame it has a 'mandarin' collar, I just don't get on with those collars otherwise I'd be sorely tempted, good luck with the sale.

 

[rumblefish]

What a beaut!
No regrets in letting it go?

 

[Baron Kurtz]

None. No collector, I. And i've got a house to buy, hence all the great stuff I've had lying around for years that doesn't fit and never will fit is getting sold off. More size 44 30s and 40s leather to come, gents.

I can see what people are saying about mandarin collars. Personally I like them, but I can see why it would be a hit or miss feature. I think it lends the jacket a closer feel to the USAF version.

bk

 

[havocpaul]

Please give me a nod if you post any other vintage leathers as at last I've found someone the same size as me! Thanks, Paul

 

[Baron Kurtz]

You're a 35S (my size) or a 44? I have a late 1940s 44 german cycle jacket to fix up and sell. And the suede i've also got posted here in Classifieds.

bk

 

[havocpaul]

I usually wear a 42/44 chest jacket, with shoulders around 19/20" across and arm length of 24-25" (shoulder to cuff).

 

[scotrace]

Just to make clear I'm out - this beautiful jacket is up for grabs.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

My stated price is £350, but I will of course listen to reasonable offers on this stunning jacket.

bk