Planning my first jacket

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by scurvyfreedman, May 1, 2020.

  1. navetsea

    navetsea I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    5,106
    Location:
    East Java
    oh I don't doubt it makes a difference, but I bet outer flap outside the zip like parka or aviation jacket would work better against wind and water creeping in, now it won't look as nice perhaps could not have 2 chest pockets unless the zip is made off center to make the outer flap look centered.

    my argument was about inner flap vs outer flap
    not with vs without flap
     
  2. Fanch

    Fanch I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    4,486
    Location:
    Texas
    I came into this discussion a bit late but will attempt to give my input as I have ordered two Sheene's (russet brown and black Vicenza) in the past. Unfortunately my pictures were lost when I bought a new Windows 10 computer to replace my Windows 7.

    I concur with what others have said regarding cotton drill lining throughout which is what I have done on all of my Aero jackets except for body shell moleskin lining on my Aero Teamster. I am partial to the olive cotton drill and used it on both Sheene's. I would not recommend a windflap on a Sheene. Although my Sheene's have HWM collars, an August collar sounds fine; IMO no big deal one way or the other. Although I asked for no shoulder gussets on my black Vicenza Sheene, it came with shoulder gussets anyhow, and I can tell little difference between my black Vicenza Sheene and russet brown Vicenza Sheene with no gussets. No big deal.

    My russet Sheene has zipped handwarmer pockets; my black Vicenza Sheene does not. The zipped handwarmer pockets abrade my hands; so I much prefer no zips on handwarmers. I didn't order vertical inside pockets on either jacket but wish I had ordered one vertical inside pocket without closure within the left inside leather facing of each Sheene (I am right handed).

    Although you prefer dark brown Vicenza, Aero's seal Vicenza is not quite as dark as the dark brown Vicenza but darker than russet Vicenza. I much prefer seal Vicenza over dark brown Vicenza as the seal is the richest color I have seen, and wish my russet Sheene were seal. Just my personal preference.

    If you live in N America, I strongly recommend you go through Thurston Brothers in Seattle as they will send you a fit jacket and go from there. None better than Carrie at Thurston Bros. In my case a friend about the same size as I am sent me his Sheene that was too tight fitting in my midsection and could tell Holly to have at least an additional 2.25” added to waist. The Sheene/CR pattern is very much a fitted jacket with a V shape, and as such has very tight parameters and is difficult to get a good fit. Hence the reason for getting a fit jacket from Carrie, if feasible.

    Below are the specifications that were saved in my documents on the Aero invoice for my last Sheene. As a point of reference I am 6'2" 185 lbs 42" chest 38" waist, with long arms but somewhat short torso in relation to my height. Hopefully my input will be of some help as you attempt to navigate through this process:

    Sheene // Black Vicenza // Size 42” // 3 Pocket – chest pocket straight, not slanted // Omit Shoulder Gussets/Action Back // No Kidney Panel // Back Yoke // Additional 2.25” added to waist – NO LESS // 27.25” back – NO LESS // 27.25” Sleeve – NO LESS // Antique Brass Hardware // Looped Pocket Zip on Breast Pocket // No zips on Handwarmers // Olive Cotton Drill Lining Throughout >> Additional note – If the Looped zip isn’t available, diamond puller is okay for chest pocket. If Olive cotton drill is out of stock, can substitute for black.
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2020
  3. scurvyfreedman

    scurvyfreedman New in Town

    Messages:
    9
    Thanks for your experience. Cotton drill lining appears to be the universal advice. Appreciate the info about the non-zip hand warmers and gussets. Will definitely use Thurston when the time comes.
     
    Fanch likes this.
  4. Fanch

    Fanch I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    4,486
    Location:
    Texas
    Very good idea to use Carrie at Thurston as I gather you are in the USA. A fit jacket is critical when attempting to nail down a proper fit. One last thing. The Sheene / Cafe Racer the same pattern, except for the collar, is a snug fit. My experience with the snug fitting Aero patterns such as the Sheene/CR and 1930's slim fit HB patterns is that layering underneath hasn't worked particularly well for me, and looks and feels like a stuffed sausage when I've attempted to layer a sweater or Filson vest underneath. So my advice would be to wear only an undershirt and maybe a plain shirt underneath the fit jacket from Carrie. I think you'll see what I'm talking about at the time of the fit. Good luck with your quest!
     
    scurvyfreedman likes this.
  5. dudewuttheheck

    dudewuttheheck Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,942
    Gotcha. That makes sense. I've been in some pretty strong winds too and the wind never got in through the zipper, but while riding I could certainly see it happening.
     
  6. Fanch

    Fanch I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    4,486
    Location:
    Texas
    One last thing. Thurston likes lightweight tartan wool lining with cotton sateen in sleeves, and your fit jacket will likely come with those linings as well as a left side open interior pocket. However I am of the strong opinion that Aero’s cotton drill lining throughout will be the most durable and the best arc. Cotton sateen sleeve lining might be slightly easier to access when putting your jacket on and off. My Teamster does have cotton sateen sleeve lining but don’t think it will ultimately hold up as well as regular cotton drill. I am a huge advocate of cotton drill lining throughout and have four Aero jackets lined that way. Good luck with your quest.
     
    AeroFan_07 and scurvyfreedman like this.

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