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Remake of a Buco J-71 by FiveStars Leathers

Mysteryo

One Too Many
Messages
1,308
Location
Nantes (FR)
I'm a Buco lover and the lucky owner of a few original pieces .
The One that started my love for the brand was unfortunately missing in my collection: the Buco J-71.
I've always been looking for the opportunity to find one on the internet with no success.... very sad.
Japanese repros exist but have always been way to expensive and not my size (maybe lately the rainbow Country "Allstate");
So I've turned to some makers, wich were not interested in working on this project , except one, Dave Howell of Diamond Clothing, wich I order and payed for a jacket, but who never delivered (to this days, I'm still waiting for a refund that will never come -it was in 2019)

After I successfully worked with 5* last year, on the remake of a Penneys/Raph Pugh Aviators jacket, I decided to ask them for the remake of my long researched J-71.

Here's the thing: the J-71 is basicaly the same pattern as the J-82, with minor differences and with no D pocket.
As it happens I possess a J-82 in a size 46, wich is one of my best fitting jackets, so I sent it to 5* with all the instructions I could and as many pictures as possible to have them make the most accurate repro.

BUCOJ82 VS J71.jpg


The original J-71 is made of steerhide but I decided to go for their black HH, on the smoother side.

Many emails were exchanged with Fargham, who wouldnt hesitate to ask me for some small details about dimension of belt loops, repair areas on the original J82.
He also provided me with pictutres of the WIP process, that was very pleasing.

IMG20240708150444.jpg IMG20240720154508.jpg IMG20240720154517.jpg IMG20240730110814.jpg IMG20240730110822.jpg

At the end I just had to validate the order based on pictures of the jacket beeing measured.
then I got my original J82 and a brand new j-71 back to me within a week after validation.

IMG20240801125417.jpg
IMG20240801125421.jpg
IMG20240801125447.jpg


The result is beyond my expectations: Fargham and his team did an incredible job remaking this jacket from the original I sent. The pattern is absolutely the same, construction, and the fit is like the original: perfect for me.


The horsehide is slightly grainy but supple and thick.
They also made me a mutton collar based on pictures of an original I've got.

The cons:
-the lining materials (quilted for the body, satin for the sleeve) isn't great quality, and seems fragile with heavy use. It feels all synthetic to me. But the result is so rewarding that I can deal with that.
-The construction of the epaulets is not exactly conform to the original, but its nothing noticeable.
-I asked for a snaped belt end so I can change the buckle when I find an original metal one, but they forgot this demand I suppose.

Thats it.

Fit picts to come
 

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Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,202
As it happens I possess a J-82 in a size 46, wich is one of my best fitting jackets, so I sent it to 5* with all the instructions I could and as many pictures as possible to have them make the most accurate repro.
The jacket looks amazing, if I didn't know better I'd say it's an original. 5 star did a great job, congrats.
The original J-71 is made of steerhide but I decided to go for their black HH, on the smoother side.
My original Buco J-71 is smooth horsehide so you're staying true to original.

IMG_5846.jpeg
IMG_5847.jpeg

-I asked for a snaped belt end so I can change the buckle when I find an original metal one, but they forgot this demand I suppose.
The original j-71 came with a plastic north & judd buckle. The buckle on your 5* is actually quite close to the original. If you do want to replace it I found a plastic buckle on eBay, similar to the original. I'll DM the link to the listing.

IMG_5850.jpeg


IMG_0823.jpeg
IMG_0825.jpeg
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,597
Wow that's awesome. Thanks for sending a jacket for them to trace. This pattern might just pull me back to 5* haha.
 

photo2u

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,282
Location
claremont california
The jacket looks good on you. I was wondering about the hide used? The jacket flows real nice on you. Did you ever consider a brown hide for your cool project?
 

MrProper

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,162
Location
Europe
Congratulations. Yes, making an exact copy (and then changing a few details) is something 5* does very well. I hope that the leather has improved in the meantime. That was always the main knock-out criterion for me (I rule out the possibility that the dimensions don't fit with a copy)
 

Togs

New in Town
Messages
29
Felicitations Mysteryo, very well done. The jacket comes alive on you, and I can only imagine how amazing it will be worn-in like your J-82.
 

Khilij

One of the Regulars
Messages
257
Spectacular! I've never been adventurous enough for 5 Star, but maybe one day I'll take the plunge after seeing how your jacket turned out.
 

Technonut

Practically Family
Messages
894
Location
West "By Gawd" Virginia
I attempted to sit on my wallet, but a made-to-measure J-82 patterned directly from an original was just too much for me to take..... o_O

Just finishing up the details with Fargham today. I want more or less a direct J-82 copy, with the exception of no mouton collar or collar snaps. I requested at least 1.4mm black steer suitable for this jacket. This isn't my first rodeo with 5-Star, and I'm hopeful this will turn out as well as the jacket seen here... ;)

I'm appreciative to Mysteryo for sending his original in to be copied. It allows others to share in enjoying an accurately patterned representation of the J-82 at a great price..... :)
 

Mysteryo

One Too Many
Messages
1,308
Location
Nantes (FR)
If its your exact size (46)there is no doubt it will be good! I dont know how they handle grading a jacket and making different sizes .... cross fingers, and thank you for your appreciation :)
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,836
If its your exact size (46)there is no doubt it will be good! I dont know how they handle grading a jacket and making different sizes .... cross fingers, and thank you for your appreciation :)

I'm similarly tempted to go for your model's exact measurements. Hell, if they measured the D-pocket of your J-82 I would maybe even go for that for minimal modification from them.

I know a size 42 original Buco is unwearably small for me so a 46 is probably the smallest I could wear.
 

Technonut

Practically Family
Messages
894
Location
West "By Gawd" Virginia
I wasn't aware that Mysteryo sent-in his own jacket rivets and belt buckle to be used... I'm moving ahead without the rivets, and having 5-Star use one of their metal buckles appropriate for this style jacket on (hopefully) a snapped belt to easily replace the buckle if desired.

Here's my final details:

Buco J-82 Repro

Use original Buco pattern in my measurements

At least 1.4mm black steer hide most closely
matching original Buco as possible.

KEEP original J-82 D-pocket

NO snaps for fur collar installed on collar.

NO rivets

Thickest, durable pocket linings (canvas?) for all pockets

Lining: Red Twill cotton (Both body and sleeves)

Nickle Antique Talon zippers

Use appropriate style silver metal motorcycle jacket belt
buckle from your stock, and install snap on belt to make buckle
removable.

Correct Measurements:

Pit-Pit: 23.5 "

Shoulders: 19 "

Sleeves: 25.5 "

Hem: 21.5 "

Back Length: 24 "

I'll start my own thread to show the jacket after it arrives.... :) Hopefully, this will turn out as well overall as Mysteryo's jacket.... :cool:
 

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