Show us your suits

[herringbonekid]

i agree with the chap above.

there seems to be an atlantic divide: the europeans among us prefering a snugger jacket, and the americans going for a more padded shoulder look.
i think we all agree on trousers....they should be WIDE.

vive la difference.

 

[Mr. Rover]

Nope, it's really a pair of boxer shorts. They're made of cotton.

You can't have cotton lining? Maybe he just couldn't stand the tweed chafing his upper thigh.
I think matching stripes is a matter of cost more than whether or not it is possible. I recall reading that it is expensive to match the stripes at the shoulders because you need more fabric.

 

[Wild Root]

It takes a skilled tailor to match the stripes or, windowpane on a suit because one has to plan where everything it going to go... they will have to cut larger pieces of fabric to be able to match it all up. It does cost more to match it all... thus, it's not cost effective and there for it's an inferior idea by today's standards. Little details like this aren't important mainly because of laziness.

=WR=

 

[Marc Chevalier]

i agree with the chap above.

there seems to be an atlantic divide: the europeans among us prefering a snugger jacket, and the americans going for a more padded shoulder look.

This is ironic, since the drape suit (also known as the blade suit, or lounge suit) originated in the 1920s in ... you guessed it .... England! Americans resisted the "English drape", as it was called, until the mid-1930s. Seems the Yanks preferred suits with narrower shoulders and a smooth, form-fitting chest (and upper back).

.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

It must be said, most of the Brits avoided the Blade suit as well. T'was never a big thing, really. A bit of a fad, from what i understand. Dunhill was marketing the British Drape suit over here in the early 30s.

bk

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Yet the English Drape was heavily promoted in the U.S.A. from about 1936 to the early '40s ... and why wouldn't it be? What a great way for tailors and suitmakers to convince American men that their old suits were suddenly unstylish.

.

 

[BellyTank]

This is ironic, since the drape suit (also known as the blade suit, or lounge suit) originated in the 1920s in ... you guessed it .... England! Americans resisted the "English drape", as it was called, until the mid-1930s. Seems the Yanks preferred suits with narrower shoulders and a smooth, form-fitting chest (and upper back).

.

Ironic perhaps but an apparent 'contemporary' preference in vintage style, among us 'Europeans' nonetheless(3 of us at least).

To be sure to be sure.

B
T

 

[Wild Root]

I like my suits to be well fitted but, have a little extra shoulders then most early suits... I'm like Marc in that we both find that 1937-1939 had the best tailoring. I like fitted coats but, my pants have to have room! Love a nice drape to my pants... man, I love that look! A nice fitted coat with mild shoulders and a nice drape wide legged pant... Oooh, nice!

=WR=

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Root and I aren't saying that '30s drape suits look good on every physique ... there has never been, and will never be, such a creature.

We just feel that the '30s drape suits, sportcoats and overcoats are better for us (and on us) than any other cut we've tried.

Again, there is no perfect cut ... but there is a perfect cut for you.

.

 

[Wild Root]

:eusa_clap Well said Marc!

For swing dancing, a suit with more cut is ideal! The later suits offer more freedom of movement for me... but, when dressing to eat out, I enjoy an earlier look.

=WR=

 

[Tomasso]

The question is whether lack of height or lack of shoulders or lack of chest area or too much bulk around the midrif can be described as "shortcomings" or "flaws" to be "corrected".

Yes, a properly cut(chosen) suit should minimize the particular physical flaws of the wearer. For example, Cary Grant had an 18 inch neck, notice how it was tailored away.

 

[resortes805]

:eusa_clap Well said Marc!

For swing dancing, a suit with more cut is ideal! The later suits offer more freedom of movement for me... but, when dressing to eat out, I enjoy an earlier look.

=WR=

Here-here! :eusa_clap

 

[Sefton]

Here's another American who likes what our European members do. I like the look of a more fitted jacket with minimal or no padding. The problem I have when I wear a jacket that's a size down is always in the length of the sleeves. The shoulders fit and the chest/waist are good too. I like the wide legged look too...just not baggy. One thing that's awful to look at now is the "hip hop" styling of suits. I see young men wearing suits with very low waists and the trousers cuffs bunched up in a heap at their feet! Yuck!

Edit: Since I just recently got a vintage late 30s or early 40s drape suit I have changed my mind a bit. I like the look (although I still like the pre-drape style).

 

[herringbonekid]

It must be said, most of the Brits avoided the Blade suit as well. T'was never a big thing, really. A bit of a fad, from what i understand. Dunhill was marketing the British Drape suit over here in the early 30s.

bk

i must admit, i'm not even sure what this mythic english drape looked like. most of the vintage english suit jackets i've seen are fitted. are we just saying it was roomier across the chest and back/shoulders ? wouldn't it just look like a size too big ?

does anyone have any pics ?

 

[Wild Root]

does anyone have any pics ?

Nope.

 

[Shaul-Ike Cohen]

But you can buy this lovely, lovely figure here for £2.50 and put it next to the other lovely, lovely figures on the mantel, dear.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

does anyone have any pics ?

I only have a dunhill ad promoting the "English [or British, i don't remember] Drape". I'll look for it later.

bk

 

[Marc Chevalier]

i must admit, i'm not even sure what this mythic english drape looked like.

Think of a theatre curtain. The curtain has lots of vertical folds hanging down. Now, imagine a suit jacket that has four vertical folds in total: two in the front and two in the back. Each soft, large, drapey fold runs down from the point where the shoulder seam meets the upper chest (or upper back), to about the mid torso. The folds face outward: they're sort of like large, drapey converse pleats.

These folds give the upper body more freedom of movement. There's no constraining "pull" when you swing your arms and twist your torso.

Look closely at suit jacket in the photo below. You can see the large vertical fold hanging down between the man's right shoulder and lapel:

.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Interesting that they're calling it the "European Drape". Dunhill ad from 1932 (Apparel Arts v 1.2, Spring 1932). Look how short his troos are:

Do not despair chaps, i'm still working on all those scans i promised! Hard to find time. get about 5 pages a day done.

Note, dear readers, that the suit above retailed at around $60 in 1932. Middishade was pushing a $20 suit at this time, as their "Upper" range.

bk

 

[jake_fink]

Look closely at suit jacket in the photo below. You can see the large vertical fold hanging down between the man's right shoulder and lapel:

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Is that man with the large vertical fold hanging down (ooo-err, missus) Douglas Fairbanks Jr.?