Single breasted peak lapel

[Wild Root]

Agreed! Why put forth the effort if it's going to be half A**ed!

The waist coat looks so bad! It's supposed to have a diamond cut to it. The buttons aren't at an angle at all! It looks like a double breasted coat with the sleeves chopped off.

Send it back, it's not done yet!

Root.

 

[Veronica Parra]

This one is somewhat better. It's a J. Peterman sample from the late 1990s. Unfortunately, J. Peterman never put it into production! Made in South Africa, of all places, it was meant to be part of the "Movie Legends" clothing line. I think it approximates a suit that Robert Redford wore in Out of Africa. The color is a chocolate brown.

 

[Wild Root]

Yeah, JP has been known to do a really good job! Nice suit for sure!

Marc, we need to get togethere soon and talk about suits!

WR.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Just picked up a couple of deadstock 20s SB peak lapels. Will post pics of me wearing them at the weekend ... Check the high button stance:

bk

 

[John in Covina]

SUits / Tux

In tuxedos, a peak lapel whether single or double breasted is more "formal" than any notched lapel. (Frankly, in tuxes, both notched and shawl lapels are not what I like at all. I find them irratating and 'cheap".)

The Business suit was supposed to be a bit more formal than a lounge suit, if I remember correctly. It replaces the more formal morning suit for business.

 

[Wild Root]

Just picked up a couple of deadstock 20s SB peak lapels. Will post pics of me wearing them at the weekend ... Check the high button stance:
bk

NOS 20's? Where on earth would you find NOS 20's coats? Did they have the original store tags hanging off the sleeve? Come on, I need proof!

=WR=

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Proof ye shall have, sir! Pics, as i say, will appear this weekend. Tags not hanging off the sleeve, but tacked under the collar. One of them, anyway. The other one i don't think has tags, so i was wrong to call it NOS. But the one i posted a pic of: That puppy has *never* been worn. It is in minty minty condition. The person i bought them from got them from a guy who owned a store, had these on the rack for about 20 years until the mid 40s-early 50s, then decided he couldn't sell them so put them away in a cedar chest. Until they were recently rediscovered. Or that's how the story goes, anyway.

But, i will say, the one i posted is identical to one in an old catalogue i have. :drum: Comparison pics will be posted.

bk

 

[Blackjack]

I just read in GQ (?) that single breasted peak lapels are going to be "IN" this year, so we should have a ton to pick from soon!

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I just read in GQ (?) that single breasted peak lapels are going to be "IN" this year, so we should have a ton to pick from soon!

Wait to see the prices, the fabric, and the cut. If it's more than $40 i refuse to pay it.

bk

 

[Wild Root]

I agree with you 100% on that score brother!

Nice find, can't wait to see the photos!

=WR=

 

[Mr. Rover]

I saw that 20's NOS peak lapel job! Is it really 14" shoulders? I didn't bid because they said that they were 14" shoulders with no slack left. I thought it was too ridiculous to spend the money on that if it were so small, considering my shoudlers are 2 inches wider than that.

Baron Kurtz, how skinny are you???

BTW, Benetton has a bajillion single breasted peak lapel suits. Too bad the waists in the pants are too low.

I just got a suit made in Hong Kong, inspired by Bogey's Maltese Falcon DB suit. Pics soon.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Nah, the shoulders are 16 - 16.25". He'd measured it between the seams halfway between the pit and the shoulder. As you know there's a curve outwards to what we'd call the shoulder seam on either side. There is absolutely NO shoulder padding, which is a little strange, but that's a feature also of the jacket i saw in a 1921 catalogue. Root, you're probably the man to tell me, was this a common feature of 20s jackets?

bk

p.s. Ray, i'm pretty slim (34-29-36, as the ladies would say) but with wide-ish shoulders for my frame. I think we're pretty much the same size. But i'm older than you. When you grow out of your vintage clothes send them this way

 

[Wild Root]

Ah yes, the 1920's! Well, if I can remember that far back.... hahahah J/K

Yes, the 1920's and very early 30's were very conservative in the shoulder padding department! Very little or none was the norm. Now, this was even more so on summer coats such as linen's that were washable. That was a very typical style in the 20's mostly early 20's I believe. They did use shoulder pads but very very small ones. A lot of the guys here seem to prefer them to the mid to late 30's coats. Like I said, I like all the styles for what they are.

Yep, you have a very unique 1920's rare as I'll get out survivor! Can't wait to see the photos!!!

=WR=

 

[Mr. Rover]

Oh d*amnit! I really wanted that jacket, too! I hate people who can't measure. The problem is I can't risk it, because the shipping is so high to Asia. Those 3 jackets were the PERFECT size for me, too. I wear a size 34, as well.
Atleast you know who to sell YOUR jackets too when your collection gets too big- eh, Kurtz?

 

[Mr. Rover]

Check out the roped shoulders on these jackets! They're huge! Are those unpadded??????

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Check out the roped shoulders on these jackets! They're huge! Are those unpadded??????

I'd say those are 30s padded shoulder on "young men's" jackets. For some reason they went for crazy-big shoulder pads. The kind that make me look ridiculously top-heavy.

bk

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Oh d*amnit! I really wanted that jacket, too! I hate people who can't measure.

I *love* people who can't measure. They've formed the basis of my vintage wardrobe so far. Like measuring waists at 26" when it is in fact 30", the shoulder thing etc. etc.Taking really important measurements wrongly scares buyers away and leaves things relatively cheap for me! As you say, i'm lucky to be free to take a risk.

At least you know who to sell YOUR jackets too when your collection gets too big- eh, Kurtz?

Well, i'm not planning on shrinking any time soon. Not that old yet

bk

 

[Wild Root]

Check out the roped shoulders on these jackets! They're huge! Are those unpadded??????

That picture is out of a 1939 Sears Catalog. Like I said, the mid to late 30's had shoulder pads. Now, remember that is an illustration and I have never seen the real article in person. The shoulders on those coats are known as "Roped shoulders" the should pads weren't that big it's just the way the top of the sleeve peaks up that give it that look. I have a coat like this that was made in France. It's double breasted and has lots of padding in the shoulders. They're also roped and well, they look really cool. Makes me look real tough! It's definitely an acquired taste from collecting for a wile. You get tired of the same thing and start to desire the rare and obscure and find it really looks cool after all.

=WR=

PS. One would have to have large shoulder pads to balance out the look with the 23" hem on the pants!

 

[Mr. Rover]

I would think it would be hard to do a repro of those these days properly. When I was at the Hong Kong tailor, their 13 oz. fabric was so still so flimsy it would be hard to get the right drape in the shoulders without padding.

 

[Wild Root]

That's why suits have padding. To give the suit a shape! Yes, some have tried to copy the "Sears Suit" but, none have done it right thus far.

Yes, today's fabric is crap! The good stuff will run you 100-500 a yard and it's still not as nice as the stuff they had 50 years ago.

=WR=