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That Boxy Look

W. Buchanan

New in Town
Messages
23
Location
Ohio, 1914
Another member mentioned that the Nostalgia, at least during its production a decade ago, had rather thin, stretched felt at the top which was given easily to shrink (this from the thread specifically about the Nostalgia).

To be clear, then, bashing does not involve any steaming which may shrink the hat?
 

Mulceber

Practically Family
Messages
753
Location
Ann Arbor, Michigan
You can do it with or without steam - either one works, although I think it's agreed that without steam is better. Thing is though, if that hat gets out in a rain storm, you'll have the same problem. If you're looking to keep that boxy, 20's-30's look, you'll have to either never wear it in the rain, or look at other options. -M
 

Chinaski

One Too Many
Messages
1,045
Location
Orange County, CA
I think most of us treated our hats like dainty, fine objects of art when we first started acquiring hats, only to learn they can take a good bit of rough handling and be none the worse for wear.

I wouldn't worry too much about whether steam is used or not. Simply get your desired hat, and start shaping it into the shape you want it (look at pictures) and don't baby it. You'll learn a lot just by playing with the crease and figuring out how to do it and how you like the hat to be shaped, or creased.
 

Mulceber

Practically Family
Messages
753
Location
Ann Arbor, Michigan
I may have overstated that a bit - "NEVER wear it in the rain" is an exaggeration. Suffice to say though that most factory-produced hats these days (Akubra excepted) don't hold up well to rain. -M
 

Wolfwood

A-List Customer
Messages
319
Location
Finland
The hats are provided open-crowned, which means that they have to be shaped by hand when you get it. And, yes, it is pretty hard to achieve total symmetry, but - then again - that should probably not be your goal in the first place. Give the hat some personality by _not_ aiming for complete, perfect symmetry.

However, shaping your hat is no nuclear science, so you should achieve pretty good symmetry if you really want to have it.
 

scottyrocks

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,161
Location
Isle of Langerhan, NY
although I think it's agreed that without steam is better. Thing is though, if that hat gets out in a rain storm, you'll have the same problem. If you're looking to keep that boxy, 20's-30's look, you'll have to either never wear it in the rain, or look at other options. -M

Sorry, I'll have to disagree. Its much easier to shape a hat with some moisture. I prefer water from a spray bottle. It makes the felt more malleable, and allows it set in the desired shape and stay there.

If you get caught in the rain, just reshape and set it on something like an upside down bowl, or better yet, a collander, to dry, and it'll be fine.
 

W. Buchanan

New in Town
Messages
23
Location
Ohio, 1914
Thank you for all the information. And I should say, too, that Mr. Wolfwood's hat as he wears it in his picture appears to me the apotheosis of fedora style.

As far as hat blocks, go, though, is that some thing that most of you possess? How necessary are they for fedoras, and are they any more necessary for stiff felt hats, like homburgs?
 

scottyrocks

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,161
Location
Isle of Langerhan, NY
I didn't say it was easier, I said it was better. Better for the hat, specifically. -M

Its not necessarily better for the hat to shape it without H2O. Water does nothing to affect fur felt hats in a negative way unless the hat is of inferior quality, and then only if theyre drenched. Thats why hatmakers and fitters steam them. In fact, if it feels easier to shape a hat with water than it does dry, then it puts less stress on the fibers. 'Lubrication eases mechanation.'
 

Brad Bowers

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,187
Steam softens the shellac in hats, making them easier to shape. Even if your hat is soft it still has some shellac in it, so steam isn't necessary for all hats, but it will soften the shellac so that the crease will be set after it hardens again.

Brad
 
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Brad Bowers

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,187
As far as hat blocks, go, though, is that some thing that most of you possess? How necessary are they for fedoras, and are they any more necessary for stiff felt hats, like homburgs?

All hats use a block for the initial crown shape, whether it's a soft felt or a stiff felt. Almost all are blocked open crown, though some use a block with the particular crease built into it. Blocks are only necessary for the initial construction of the hat and for use in the occasional reconstruction/renovation of them. Most Loungers probably do not have their own blocks, and for any work they send out their hats to professional hatters.

Brad
 

Mulceber

Practically Family
Messages
753
Location
Ann Arbor, Michigan
Water does nothing to affect fur felt hats in a negative way unless the hat is of inferior quality,

Not true. All felt, except for dead felt (felt of a particular age) seeks to return to the original shape of the felt body (a cone). When a hat is thoroughly soaked (and I mean soaked all the way through), the water hastens that process and makes it go back to it's natural shape. That's why steam is used in the blocking process - it causes the felt to conform to the shape of the hat block. So yes, if the water reaches the core of the felt, it will negatively effect the shape of the hat and cause it to taper. On higher end felts, such as the ones used by Akubra and the lion's share of our custom hatters, it's very difficult for water to reach the core, and so you REALLY have to soak the hat in order to start seeing taper. On mid-low range felt, however, it is very easy to thoroughly soak it, leading to a very quick taper. -M
 

bolthead

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,905
Location
Pennsylvania, United States
You will find tons of information on all kinds of hats on this forum. I will try to help you by sending you to Art Fawcett at www.vintagesilhouettes.com. He is a real gentleman and his site will provide the pictures and info that I believe you are looking for. He will answer e-mails if you wish to contact him. Be warned though. If you try on an Art Fawcett creation it is hard to stop with one.

I couldn't agree more, but, let us not forget to mention our own TonyB , if it's boxy and vintage you're looking for, you can't go wrong with "Tumwater Hats".
 

carldelo

One Too Many
Messages
1,568
Location
Astoria, NYC
Well, to take a different example, I would say "ignoramuses." Not connected with the other word though even in jest.

Gentlemen, I draw your attention to the listing for 'forum' in the Oxford English Dictionary, which clearly states that the word 'forum' has two separate plural forms, to whit:

"The plural of forum is usually spelled forums; the plural fora (as in the original Latin) is chiefly used when talking about a public square in an ancient Roman city."

http://www.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/forum?view=uk

Onward....
 

donnc

One of the Regulars
Messages
173
Location
Seattle
However, shaping your hat is no nuclear science

Oppenheimer agrees:

Eisenstaedt_RobertOppenheimer_thumb.jpg
 

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