SHARPETOYS
Call Me a Cab
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- 2,425
- Location
- Titusville, Florida
THE ART OF
FITTING FACES
For The Tall SLENDER MAN: This type needs a style that (a) will not look "all hat" above his slender face, and (b) will break up the long lines of face and figure. He needs a tapered and not-too-high crown.
If very tall, avoid extreme narrow brim. If medium height, he can wear the narrowest. And tell him to wear it with a side-tilt. In clothing, avoid vertical stripes and the long pointed collar.
The high crown, worn level on the head (above) make him look like a steeple. A side- tilt would help. A full high crown is the worst thing this man can wear.
The low tapered crown, either center crease or telescope, is the thing for this type. A contrast band will also help to break up the vertical lines. He is also a good type for low crown Homburg.
Best For The BIG FELLOW: Low crown, extreme narrow brim, extreme tapered crown, loud checks, always wrong. The tall 200 pounder who stands out in a crowd needs a hat big enough to balance his face and figure. Ask yourself: "Is he a fashion type or a folksy type?" Base your hat decision on that. RIGHT for the fashion type: CROWN is more important than brim-width for this type. He can wear a moderately narrow brim if combined with a fairly full crown. He should be cautioned to snap his brim full width from side to side.
The big man can look fashionable in the full crowned HOMBURG or semi-Homburg (turned-up brim). The brim should be flat-set on the sides ? not too sharp a roll. RIGHT for the folksy type: If the big man has no wish to look modern in fashion, you can give him as big a brim as he wants. The semi-Western type, with narrow band and fairly wide brim, is usually becoming. Fuller crown, brim not too narrow. Snap brim full across.
A good type for the Homburg or semi-Homburg. He can always wear the Western types.
For The SHORT SLENDER MAN
The small-statured man is often a big fellow mentally, and would like his importance to be visible. First, the short man should ALWAYS WEAR A HAT WHEN OUT OF DOORS. Since he takes on added stature every time he puts on the right hat, it's silly for this type of man to go hatless.
RIGHT: Best type of hat for this man is the turned-up brim, with tapered crown. It makes him look taller, and reduces the "little boy" look. If he wants a snap brim, the narrow brims and tapered crowns are a lucky break for him. Avoid, however the extremely low crown and extremely narrow brim; he wants to look like a man. The extreme low pork-pie crown is risky, for the some reason. Snap brim should be fairly flat set at front - a deep snap over the eyes will submerge him. Crown MUST be tapered - a high full crown is the worst thing you can put on him. Contrast band is better than matched, because the contrast makes the crown look less high above his face.
CLOTHING RECOMMENDATIONS: Suitings with a bulky look-rough textured tweeds, homespons and napped-surface flannels-are better than the smooth finish fabrics. Avoid chalk-stripe suitings and other striped patterns that have a slenderizing effect; plain colors or quiet checks or plaids are better. Suit jackets should be rather short, to emphasize leg-length . He'll look smaller still with a low porkpie, a full crown, a deep snap over the eyes. Jacket and topcoats should be short.
He needs a well-tapered crown, but not so low as to make him look like a "little boy". A turned-up brim will add to his look of height and importance.
This type should never go hatless - a hat, like elevator heels, can add to his stature.
For The SHORT PLUMP MAN
Perhaps the most mis-fitted man, in this day of small, taper crown fashion is the short plump fellow. The low tapered crown is good fashion and good looks for a large percentage of customers. But it's wrong for him. It makes his face look fuller and his body look shorter.
The best rule for this man is moderation at all points - no extremes. RIGHT: This man can wear the modern narrower brim (though 15/8", rather than the extreme 1 1/2" or 13/8") IF the crown is fairly full. Such a hat should be carried in every stock today. But if the store carries only the extreme taper in the narrow brim, it- is better to sell him a staple rather than a high fashion hat that looks silly.
Most becoming for this type is the semi-Homburg-the hat with turned-up brim - since it tends to add height. It should be fairly flatset, however; avoid the high roll on the sides. In a snap-brim, suggest that he wear it moderately well back on the head and tilted to the side. If pulled down over the nose, it shortens the face and squats down the figure.
CLOTHING RECOMMENDATIONS
Single-breasted suits and coats are best, helping the illusion of height. Straight hanging lines are better than the snug fit. Dark-toned smooth-finish fabrics are better than the bright and bulky suitings. In patterns, stick to vertical stripes. Narrow tie and rather low collar-showing some neck-are also advised. The little tapered-crown hat is not for him! He is seldom the type for a pork-pie.
In clothes patterns vertical stripes are best A turned-up brim will give him height.
But avoid brim with sharp roll! NO EXTREMES for this man. Moderate crown and brim. And snap the brim full width
HOW THE HAT MAN CAN HELP MEN WITH DIFFICULT FACES
FOR THE MAN WITH LARGE EARS
CROWN - avoid extreme tapers
BRIM - medium width snapped full
AVOID - off the face styles.Hat should be worn high on the brow
TOP HEAVY FACE
CROWN - tapered with front pinch
BRIM - medium width with narrow snap
AVOID - high full crowns, flat snapped brim
PEAR SHAPED FACE
CROWN - full centre crease or Homburg
BRIM - wide with full snap
AVOID - tapered crown narrow brim
RECEDING CHIN
CROWN - lower style with good taper
BRIM - narrow to medium with medium curl
AVOID - high full crown.Hat should be worn with slight tilt and fairly level
PROMINENT JAW
CROWN - slight taper centre creases or wide front pinches
BRIM - medium width with full snap
AVOID - too narrow a brim
LONG NOSE
CROWN - medium height not too tapered
BRIM - should be wide enough to extend beyond tip of nose
WEARING - slight tilt, fairly level
http://hatxpress.com/Contribute/Hat_Guide/hat_guide.asp
FITTING FACES
For The Tall SLENDER MAN: This type needs a style that (a) will not look "all hat" above his slender face, and (b) will break up the long lines of face and figure. He needs a tapered and not-too-high crown.
If very tall, avoid extreme narrow brim. If medium height, he can wear the narrowest. And tell him to wear it with a side-tilt. In clothing, avoid vertical stripes and the long pointed collar.
The high crown, worn level on the head (above) make him look like a steeple. A side- tilt would help. A full high crown is the worst thing this man can wear.
The low tapered crown, either center crease or telescope, is the thing for this type. A contrast band will also help to break up the vertical lines. He is also a good type for low crown Homburg.
Best For The BIG FELLOW: Low crown, extreme narrow brim, extreme tapered crown, loud checks, always wrong. The tall 200 pounder who stands out in a crowd needs a hat big enough to balance his face and figure. Ask yourself: "Is he a fashion type or a folksy type?" Base your hat decision on that. RIGHT for the fashion type: CROWN is more important than brim-width for this type. He can wear a moderately narrow brim if combined with a fairly full crown. He should be cautioned to snap his brim full width from side to side.
The big man can look fashionable in the full crowned HOMBURG or semi-Homburg (turned-up brim). The brim should be flat-set on the sides ? not too sharp a roll. RIGHT for the folksy type: If the big man has no wish to look modern in fashion, you can give him as big a brim as he wants. The semi-Western type, with narrow band and fairly wide brim, is usually becoming. Fuller crown, brim not too narrow. Snap brim full across.
A good type for the Homburg or semi-Homburg. He can always wear the Western types.
For The SHORT SLENDER MAN
The small-statured man is often a big fellow mentally, and would like his importance to be visible. First, the short man should ALWAYS WEAR A HAT WHEN OUT OF DOORS. Since he takes on added stature every time he puts on the right hat, it's silly for this type of man to go hatless.
RIGHT: Best type of hat for this man is the turned-up brim, with tapered crown. It makes him look taller, and reduces the "little boy" look. If he wants a snap brim, the narrow brims and tapered crowns are a lucky break for him. Avoid, however the extremely low crown and extremely narrow brim; he wants to look like a man. The extreme low pork-pie crown is risky, for the some reason. Snap brim should be fairly flat set at front - a deep snap over the eyes will submerge him. Crown MUST be tapered - a high full crown is the worst thing you can put on him. Contrast band is better than matched, because the contrast makes the crown look less high above his face.
CLOTHING RECOMMENDATIONS: Suitings with a bulky look-rough textured tweeds, homespons and napped-surface flannels-are better than the smooth finish fabrics. Avoid chalk-stripe suitings and other striped patterns that have a slenderizing effect; plain colors or quiet checks or plaids are better. Suit jackets should be rather short, to emphasize leg-length . He'll look smaller still with a low porkpie, a full crown, a deep snap over the eyes. Jacket and topcoats should be short.
He needs a well-tapered crown, but not so low as to make him look like a "little boy". A turned-up brim will add to his look of height and importance.
This type should never go hatless - a hat, like elevator heels, can add to his stature.
For The SHORT PLUMP MAN
Perhaps the most mis-fitted man, in this day of small, taper crown fashion is the short plump fellow. The low tapered crown is good fashion and good looks for a large percentage of customers. But it's wrong for him. It makes his face look fuller and his body look shorter.
The best rule for this man is moderation at all points - no extremes. RIGHT: This man can wear the modern narrower brim (though 15/8", rather than the extreme 1 1/2" or 13/8") IF the crown is fairly full. Such a hat should be carried in every stock today. But if the store carries only the extreme taper in the narrow brim, it- is better to sell him a staple rather than a high fashion hat that looks silly.
Most becoming for this type is the semi-Homburg-the hat with turned-up brim - since it tends to add height. It should be fairly flatset, however; avoid the high roll on the sides. In a snap-brim, suggest that he wear it moderately well back on the head and tilted to the side. If pulled down over the nose, it shortens the face and squats down the figure.
CLOTHING RECOMMENDATIONS
Single-breasted suits and coats are best, helping the illusion of height. Straight hanging lines are better than the snug fit. Dark-toned smooth-finish fabrics are better than the bright and bulky suitings. In patterns, stick to vertical stripes. Narrow tie and rather low collar-showing some neck-are also advised. The little tapered-crown hat is not for him! He is seldom the type for a pork-pie.
In clothes patterns vertical stripes are best A turned-up brim will give him height.
But avoid brim with sharp roll! NO EXTREMES for this man. Moderate crown and brim. And snap the brim full width
HOW THE HAT MAN CAN HELP MEN WITH DIFFICULT FACES
FOR THE MAN WITH LARGE EARS
CROWN - avoid extreme tapers
BRIM - medium width snapped full
AVOID - off the face styles.Hat should be worn high on the brow
TOP HEAVY FACE
CROWN - tapered with front pinch
BRIM - medium width with narrow snap
AVOID - high full crowns, flat snapped brim
PEAR SHAPED FACE
CROWN - full centre crease or Homburg
BRIM - wide with full snap
AVOID - tapered crown narrow brim
RECEDING CHIN
CROWN - lower style with good taper
BRIM - narrow to medium with medium curl
AVOID - high full crown.Hat should be worn with slight tilt and fairly level
PROMINENT JAW
CROWN - slight taper centre creases or wide front pinches
BRIM - medium width with full snap
AVOID - too narrow a brim
LONG NOSE
CROWN - medium height not too tapered
BRIM - should be wide enough to extend beyond tip of nose
WEARING - slight tilt, fairly level
http://hatxpress.com/Contribute/Hat_Guide/hat_guide.asp
