Pinched Homburgs in Britain

[svelte.boulevardier]

For some time, I have examined historical photographs in search of evidence that pinched-crown Homburgs were worn in formal settings during the hat’s period of popularity. Although this subject has been addressed on the forum, those discussions have not always been conclusive for me. For example, photographs cited of Michael Collins depict a hat whose brim is unbound and therefore appears not to be a Homburg but rather a Lord’s hat or another style; other images are of insufficient quality for reliable identification. The evidence for Churchill is similarly ambiguous: instances in which he might be seen wearing a pinched-crown Homburg (or alternatively a Lord’s hat) occur in informal contexts, such as in his garden, where it is difficult to distinguish a true Homburg from a hat with an upturned brim.


I have identified a number of early American fedoras whose silhouettes can resemble pinched Homburgs, and I located two Italian figures — including Puccini — who may have worn Homburgs with pinched crowns. My objective, however, was to find a prominent British example. I had the photos all along, but I did not at first realize they show Eden wearing his eponymous Homburg with a pinched crown in a rather formal setting. IMHO, these images provide direct evidence that, while possibly uncommon in Britain, the pinched-crown Homburg was worn there and not exclusively in informal situations.

The resolution may not be the greatest, but I think it is sufficient to show, primo, that the crown is pinched; secondo, that the brim is bound; and, by other features, that the hat is a Homburg.

What do you think?

 

[belfastboy]

For some time, I have examined historical photographs in search of evidence that pinched-crown Homburgs were worn in formal settings during the hat’s period of popularity. Although this subject has been addressed on the forum, those discussions have not always been conclusive for me. For example, photographs cited of Michael Collins depict a hat whose brim is unbound and therefore appears not to be a Homburg but rather a Lord’s hat or another style; other images are of insufficient quality for reliable identification. The evidence for Churchill is similarly ambiguous: instances in which he might be seen wearing a pinched-crown Homburg (or alternatively a Lord’s hat) occur in informal contexts, such as in his garden, where it is difficult to distinguish a true Homburg from a hat with an upturned brim.


I have identified a number of early American fedoras whose silhouettes can resemble pinched Homburgs, and I located two Italian figures — including Puccini — who may have worn Homburgs with pinched crowns. My objective, however, was to find a prominent British example. I had the photos all along, but I did not at first realize they show Eden wearing his eponymous Homburg with a pinched crown in a rather formal setting. IMHO, these images provide direct evidence that, while possibly uncommon in Britain, the pinched-crown Homburg was worn there and not exclusively in informal situations.

The resolution may not be the greatest, but I think it is sufficient to show, primo, that the crown is pinched; secondo, that the brim is bound; and, by other features, that the hat is a Homburg.

What do you think?

View attachment 730517

View attachment 730518

I have a number of vintage homburgs with varying degrees of stiffness to the felt. One aspect of vintage hats that I love is their ability to take a dry crease. I suspect a homburg with pinches is purely the effect of the owner, perhaps grabbing the hat at the crown and putting in the pinches as it is placed on his head. Mens' hats had an insouciant quality to the creasing as the hats could have a slightly different creasing/pinching each time it was worn......all contingent on how the owner handled it when placing it upon his head. Some of my homburg have pinches, some do not but yet they remain very much homburgs.

 

[svelte.boulevardier]

I have a number of vintage homburgs with varying degrees of stiffness to the felt. One aspect of vintage hats that I love is their ability to take a dry crease. I suspect a homburg with pinches is purely the effect of the owner, perhaps grabbing the hat at the crown and putting in the pinches as it is placed on his head. Mens' hats had an insouciant quality to the creasing as the hats could have a slightly different creasing/pinching each time it was worn......all contingent on how the owner handled it when placing it upon his head. Some of my homburg have pinches, some do not but yet they remain very much homburgs.

Thanks for this reply! These are the conclusions I had in mind when thinking about this — the way the hat is handled is one reason it may have pinches.

 

[belfastboy]

Thanks for this reply! These are the conclusions I had in mind when thinking about this — the way the hat is handled is one reason it may have pinches.

I love watching vintage 'hat' movies. In so many scenes you see shots of hats, all in different stages of creasing and pinches.

 

[svelte.boulevardier]

I love watching vintage 'hat' movies. In so many scenes you see shots of hats, all in different stages of creasing and pinches.

Same! I’m a sucker for vintage men’s style, and old movies are a great inspiration!

 

[belfastboy]

Same! I’m a sucker for vintage men’s style, and old movies are a great inspiration!

so many of those movie hats gave me the impression they looked/creased/pinched differently each time the owner placed it on his head.

 

[Arnold Layne]

Here in the UK I recently bought this ^ homburg made by Tress & Co. (so it's pre 1950's) that has the most annoying indelible pinch! Yet I have a 50's Borsalino Gulaela sold originally in Paris that has no signs of pinching.

I don't know ...

There was a time during the 60's when UK television comedy writers would use a homburg as a comedic device for characters with aspirations above their expected class restrictions and they would always wear a pinch! Alf Garnett in combination with his West Ham scarf, Albert Steptoe even in a tin bath, whereas Tony Hancock who was lower middle class, still with aspirations, never pinched his and wore it with great panache and destinction making it entirely his own.

I'm the only person I ever see wearing a homburg (or a felt hat) so I have no real reference as they have been seriously out of vogue here in Blighty, except for royalty, during my 75yrs but I was shocked by the OP to descover Antony Eden pinched his!
I don't ... but I do have a lords hat with some serious creaseage.

 

[Edward]

For some time, I have examined historical photographs in search of evidence that pinched-crown Homburgs were worn in formal settings during the hat’s period of popularity. Although this subject has been addressed on the forum, those discussions have not always been conclusive for me. For example, photographs cited of Michael Collins depict a hat whose brim is unbound and therefore appears not to be a Homburg but rather a Lord’s hat or another style; other images are of insufficient quality for reliable identification. The evidence for Churchill is similarly ambiguous: instances in which he might be seen wearing a pinched-crown Homburg (or alternatively a Lord’s hat) occur in informal contexts, such as in his garden, where it is difficult to distinguish a true Homburg from a hat with an upturned brim.


I have identified a number of early American fedoras whose silhouettes can resemble pinched Homburgs, and I located two Italian figures — including Puccini — who may have worn Homburgs with pinched crowns. My objective, however, was to find a prominent British example. I had the photos all along, but I did not at first realize they show Eden wearing his eponymous Homburg with a pinched crown in a rather formal setting. IMHO, these images provide direct evidence that, while possibly uncommon in Britain, the pinched-crown Homburg was worn there and not exclusively in informal situations.

The resolution may not be the greatest, but I think it is sufficient to show, primo, that the crown is pinched; secondo, that the brim is bound; and, by other features, that the hat is a Homburg.

What do you think?

View attachment 730517

View attachment 730518

Mick Collins wore both Homburgs and Lords' hats. I've seen pictures of him in both at various times (pre the foundation of the Free State; thereafter any photo I can find seems to have him in his General's uniform). He does seem mostly to have favoured a pinch on both, but not exclusively. I do wonder if there was an age element, or fashion. Were younger men in Ireland - and Britain - putting pinches in their hats influenced by early Hollywood pictures? The American style Fedora was a little slower to catch on on this side of the Atlantic, with homburgs and Lords hats in my understanding being more common into the 20s.


In terms of relatively formality, the social strata and income of men in the picture was likely a big influence. Men like Churchill - who was born to aristocratic parents - would have been able to afford different hats for casual and formal occasions. Men from less wealthy backgrounds likely had fewer hats, and would have been comparatively less likely to be able to afford to keep a hat exclusively for formal events like weddings and funerals.

Aside from wealth, though, I suspect then - as now - the average person wouldn't have been too hung up on that level of detail in terms of what was more formal than the other.

so many of those movie hats gave me the impression they looked/creased/pinched differently each time the owner placed it on his head.

Funny the illusions Holly wood can sell us. As a kid I fully bought in to the notion there was only one Indy hat - of course, as we know now there were more than a few worn across the production.

 

[Rmccamey]

Poirot always wore a homburg without side punches

 

[svelte.boulevardier]

Poirot always wore a homburg without side punches

Well, one side pinch (more like a dent) ;-)

I love the series with David Suchet, and have a little collection of screenshots

 

[Edward]

Poirot always wore a homburg without side punches

View attachment 731085

Neither the first nor the only actor to play Poirot, though for me Suchet is head and shoulders above the others in terms of bringing the character to life right off the page. The others all have something interesting to them (even Branagh's somewhat controversial interpretation - a Poirot for the same universe as Downey Junior's Holmes), but Suchet really nailed Poirot's fastidiousness. Were Christy writing today, I expect she might have placed Poirot somewhere on the autism spectrum, a la Monk (can't recall if it was explicit there, but it seemed at least signposted). Poirot as written was from the off an older man who still dressed as he had in his younger days - not uncommon by any means (even among men today), but somewhat exaggerated for comic effect.

Suchet, fwiw, is also the only actor who has played Poirot in a screen adaptation of every single Poirot story Christy wrote, so he had plenty of opportunity to fully develop the character.

Well, one side pinch (more like a dent) ;-)

I love the series with David Suchet, and have a little collection of screenshots


View attachment 731089

Though the real star in that shot is that herringbone tweed overcoat on the left - ooft!

 

[svelte.boulevardier]

Neither the first nor the only actor to play Poirot, though for me Suchet is head and shoulders above the others in terms of bringing the character to life right off the page. The others all have something interesting to them (even Branagh's somewhat controversial interpretation - a Poirot for the same universe as Downey Junior's Holmes), but Suchet really nailed Poirot's fastidiousness. Were Christy writing today, I expect she might have placed Poirot somewhere on the autism spectrum, a la Monk (can't recall if it was explicit there, but it seemed at least signposted). Poirot as written was from the off an older man who still dressed as he had in his younger days - not uncommon by any means (even among men today), but somewhat exaggerated for comic effect.

Suchet, fwiw, is also the only actor who has played Poirot in a screen adaptation of every single Poirot story Christy wrote, so he had plenty of opportunity to fully develop the character.



Though the real star in that shot is that herringbone tweed overcoat on the left - ooft!

I agree, the coat is stunning