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THE MALLORY MILE

MikeinRome

Familiar Face
Messages
57
I haven't looked at size tags yet, partly because I haven't found enough hats to make a population of hats to study. Just identified several more last night. Will take your advice to look at size tags, where they still exist.
As I've repeatedly said, this is a theory I'm working on, but at least it has some basis in fact. Your theory about retailers having different liners to choose from may be correct, but I'm not aware of any evidence to support that. If and when I see hats with the Renowned Since phrase that are clearly beyond the Stetson transitional period, then I will gladly abandon my theory.
 

buler

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,129
Location
Wisconsin
That Dallas with the XV liner was probably a replaced liner. I've never seen a Dallas/XV mix before. That's not saying it could never happen. Just when you think you can state a fact about hats, there is something to refute it. I will say that I can only remember seeing the "renowned since" phrase on XV liners. Again, that's not saying it wasn't ever used on another model. I've never gone down the rabbit hole to try to track when the XV model first showed up. That may be interesting.
 

MikeinRome

Familiar Face
Messages
57
That Dallas with the XV liner was probably a replaced liner. I've never seen a Dallas/XV mix before. That's not saying it could never happen. Just when you think you can state a fact about hats, there is something to refute it. I will say that I can only remember seeing the "renowned since" phrase on XV liners. Again, that's not saying it wasn't ever used on another model. I've never gone down the rabbit hole to try to track when the XV model first showed up. That may be interesting.
Interesting observation, if Renowned Since was only used on XV's. Some of these Renowned liners also say XV, while others don't include that. Don't know if those hats ar marked elsewhere as XV's.
 

MikeinRome

Familiar Face
Messages
57
Since I wrote the post last week about my possible Dallas precursor Mallory XV and discussed Mallory hat liners with the phrase "Renowned Since 1823" and "Renowned Since 1817" which I theorized were in the period right before and right after the Stetson takeover of Mallory, it just so happened that I've found another hat with this same phrase, a hat with the 1817 date. I just bought it online as a hat rescue project and received it today, unaware that I'd bought a hat with this phrase. The hat has no sweatband so that information is lost, but it's clearly not a Mallory Dallas, so we now know that the "Renowned Since" phrase wasn't limited just to Dallas model hats. This hat has a brim about 2 7/8 inches, the felt is fairly thick and very soft and pliable. Photos attached.View attachment 435607View attachment 435608View attachment 435609
This Mallory project hat of mine turns out to be a Mallory XV per the liner. The liner is so faded it's hard to read and I hadn't noticed the XV until I looked again after it was mentioned to me that the Renowned Since phrase was commonly found on XV's.
 
Messages
17,681
Location
Funkytown, USA
As I've repeatedly said, this is a theory I'm working on, but at least it has some basis in fact. Your theory about retailers having different liners to choose from may be correct, but I'm not aware of any evidence to support that. If and when I see hats with the Renowned Since phrase that are clearly beyond the Stetson transitional period, then I will gladly abandon my theory.

Interesting ad from the Mallory MADness thread (1924).

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/mallory-madness-chronological-ads.58995/post-2734729
 

Blare

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,008
642B997F-8E33-44D2-8962-22B1A0FE7B81.jpeg

1930s Mallory - Black/Charcoal Heather Melusine
4 1/2 crown as shape (approx 5 1/2 open)
2 inch black grosgrain ribbon
2 1/4 brim underwelt brim
2 inch black sweatband

026DB161-EB61-4206-9B32-B902B61B6CD5.jpeg
ADC6DE51-4752-4961-8E86-9098F9A211C9.jpeg

180564CE-FE55-4758-9FB4-0804DF44CC06.jpeg


So here is a hat that several of you kindly pointed me in the direction of probably over a year ago… including Jonathan @TheOldFashioned, Jim @Frunobulax and @Randall Renshaw and probably a few others. It remained on my watch list for more than a year as the seller slowly lowered his price and for one reason or another I never made the purchase. My wife finally pulled the trigger on it as a birthday present. For $23.99 with shipping included… it arrived in a plastic envelope! FLAT as a pancake! I was able to get it into a reasonable shape by hand yesterday and spent some time steaming it up today. Not bad! I must say! The hat arrived smelling of cigarettes, which dissipated after setting in the sun.. but while steaming it released a very sweet smell of something like cherry tobacco.

So I’m told this Mallory Established 1823 tombstone logo tends to point to mid 20s to 30s. The United Hatters, Cap And Millinery Union Workers tag indicates 1934 or later…. So I’m gonna guess mid 1930s. Unusual for the era black sweatband at about two inches. The super soft long hair felt is a black/charcoal heather. It is extremely soft and malleable.. but steam really helped to keep a shape. The brim comes in at 2 1/4 with a tight almost blind stitched underwelt. Can’t decide if I like it better brim up or down.. luckily I don’t have to choose. Thanks the everyone who tried to steer me toward this beauty.

42A58220-5EB8-45E4-AB07-110782D85A1E.jpeg
A3C6F5C5-79A5-4492-A96A-A66AAA9E2623.jpeg
8E3CD75D-D277-4A11-AB7A-58672693D378.jpeg
ADC97AA5-0380-4A4E-8FCD-B895FB39C118.jpeg
A1918BFF-90AB-491A-A9A6-452CCB71D58B.jpeg
19873F69-076B-4B31-A66D-58FF26AE5117.jpeg


PS… it looks to have the same stylings as a green one posted in this thread many years by @buler
 
Last edited:

quikrick

Practically Family
Messages
796
Location
Bay Area, California
View attachment 443038
1930s Mallory - Black/Charcoal Heather Melusine
4 1/2 crown as shape (approx 5 1/2 open)
2 inch black grosgrain ribbon
2 1/4 brim underwelt brim
2 inch black sweatband

View attachment 443039View attachment 443040
View attachment 443041

So here is a hat that several of you kindly pointed me in the direction of probably over a year ago… including Jonathan @TheOldFashioned, Jim @Frunobulax and @Randall Renshaw and probably a few others. It remained on my watch list for more than a year as the seller slowly lowered his price and for one reason or another I never made the purchase. My wife finally pulled the trigger on it as a birthday present. For $23.99 with shipping included… it arrived in a plastic envelope! FLAT as a pancake! I was able to get it into a reasonable shape by hand yesterday and spent some time steaming it up today. Not bad! I must say! The hat arrived smelling of cigarettes, which dissipated after setting in the sun.. but while steaming it released a very sweet smell of something like cherry tobacco.

So I’m told this Mallory Established 1823 tombstone logo tends to point to mid 20s to 30s. The United Hatters, Cap And Millinery Union Workers tag indicates 1934 or later…. So I’m gonna guess mid 1930s. Unusual for the era black sweatband at about two inches. The super soft long hair felt is a black/charcoal heather. It is extremely soft and malleable.. but steam really helped to keep a shape. The brim comes in at 2 1/4 with a tight almost blind stitched underwelt. Can’t decide if I like it better brim up or down.. luckily I don’t have to choose. Thanks the everyone who tried to steer me toward this beauty.

View attachment 443042View attachment 443043View attachment 443044View attachment 443045View attachment 443046View attachment 443047

PS… it looks to have the same stylings as a green one posted in this thread many years by @buler
That’s a beautiful hat. I absolutely *LOVE* the finish. Great catch. Props to your wife’s good sense!
 

Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,035
Location
Central Texas
View attachment 443038
1930s Mallory - Black/Charcoal Heather Melusine
4 1/2 crown as shape (approx 5 1/2 open)
2 inch black grosgrain ribbon
2 1/4 brim underwelt brim
2 inch black sweatband

View attachment 443039View attachment 443040
View attachment 443041

So here is a hat that several of you kindly pointed me in the direction of probably over a year ago… including Jonathan @TheOldFashioned, Jim @Frunobulax and @Randall Renshaw and probably a few others. It remained on my watch list for more than a year as the seller slowly lowered his price and for one reason or another I never made the purchase. My wife finally pulled the trigger on it as a birthday present. For $23.99 with shipping included… it arrived in a plastic envelope! FLAT as a pancake! I was able to get it into a reasonable shape by hand yesterday and spent some time steaming it up today. Not bad! I must say! The hat arrived smelling of cigarettes, which dissipated after setting in the sun.. but while steaming it released a very sweet smell of something like cherry tobacco.

So I’m told this Mallory Established 1823 tombstone logo tends to point to mid 20s to 30s. The United Hatters, Cap And Millinery Union Workers tag indicates 1934 or later…. So I’m gonna guess mid 1930s. Unusual for the era black sweatband at about two inches. The super soft long hair felt is a black/charcoal heather. It is extremely soft and malleable.. but steam really helped to keep a shape. The brim comes in at 2 1/4 with a tight almost blind stitched underwelt. Can’t decide if I like it better brim up or down.. luckily I don’t have to choose. Thanks the everyone who tried to steer me toward this beauty.

View attachment 443042View attachment 443043View attachment 443044View attachment 443045View attachment 443046View attachment 443047

PS… it looks to have the same stylings as a green one posted in this thread many years by @buler

Excellent hat, Joe.
 
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