Underwelts - Yay or Nay?

[The Wiser Hatter]

Sadly we have use and under welt and the technique to do Cav edges has been lost to time. The Cav edge gives body to the brim and lets you snap it down easy in the front.

 

[John Galt]

Not being a hat expert I would have great difficulty in distinguishing between a Cavanagh edge on a beaver felt & the underwelt of a Bailey's lite wool felt hat, at least without a magnifying glass, so to me, a welted edge signifies 'cheap' however prestigious a welted or Cavanagh edge may be in some quarters. I'm not into thick chunky brims anyway. Of course beauty is in the eye of the beholder & since welted edges exist, someone must like 'em..........fortunately there are enough hat shapes, styles, colours & brim edge finishes to suit everyone.
I'll also remind you that the OP asked for our opinions on them, I merely gave mine.

The differences between a Cavanagh edge and an underwent are significant and would be readily apparent if both types were handled.

To each his own, to be sure.

 

[Tedquinton]

A 'Cav' edge is my favourite style, but as you say the ability to create one has been lost to time, and an overwhelt has something of the same look and is the best that can be done to reflect that style today. Personally I think a raw edge looks unfinished, and is best on a working or adventure hat, like an Akubra outback hat. I couldn't imagine Indiana Jones with a bound edge.

We all have different opinions, if we didn't there would be no need of forums like this!

 

[alanfgag]

Three pages of opinion and no photos of an under-welt? Color me underwhelmed.

:essen:

 

[DJH]

We can't leave you underwhelmed, Alan

Here's a VS style underwelt, one of my favorite brim treatments for modern hats. The stitching is barely visible on the top side.

You can see I've not worn this hat for a while, a good brushing is needed.

 

[bond]

Nice example David.
Opinion seems to be split 50/50 , maybe just go with your first inclination of what attracted you to want a welted finish in the first place.
Or buy one of each

 

[gtdean48]

It really doesn't do anything for "strength" as far as I know. It is just a cosmetic treatment.

...

I have an VS Custom ArtLite in Natural Beaver. I spec'ed a 2 7/8" brim & Art said he had to either bind or welt the brim for some "heft".
The thin felt brim just wouldn't look or shape without some structure. Art's stitching is not very visible at all.

 

[Rabbit]

Stylistically, I guess you have to either like or dislike underwelts. I like D'Guy's approach about the overwelt showing off what the underwelt is hiding.

From a practical point of view, welted brims (whether over-/underwelt or felted edge) are great rain hats.
The doubled edge does stabilize the brim shape, although with moderate brim widths a raw edge does reasonably well, too.

Bound brims with the binding in lighter colors can sometimes get water stains from getting wet in some parts only, rather than all over the edge. Wetting the entire binding solves the problem, but can cause another. A soaked hat with bound brim will tend to draw in on itself (the brim, that is), leaving the brim with a higher swoop once the hat is dry again.

Disgressing a bit, Bowlers used to be a traditional rain hat in the UK. They have no crease that might weaken due to the rain, nor do they have a light-colored binding, and they have a fixed, stiff brim shape and stiff sweatband construction.
I guess if you leave out Bowlers/ Derbys, then a cavanagh hat comes in second as the ideal hat for rain, then the stitched welts.

 

[emigran]

Overwelt just seems "right" to my eye. I have a VS Dove with an overwelt stitched edge and it looks really great ...IMHO. I suppose it does give more substance to an otherwise raw edge finish.
your call... no rules for that one...