Unhatted but quite-jacketed. Another jacket roundup!

[unhatted]

Inspired by various threads (most recently by the also Vanson-obsessed @TartuWolf ) and @Tom71 ’s observation that I seem to have dialled in my preferences, I thought I would try to take stock of where I am with my rotation/collection. I still try to tell myself it is the former, but it’s obviously more jackets than I *need*, so there’s clearly a hoarding impulse I’m trying to control here…

Right now I seem to have ‘stabilised’ on 7 jackets I regularly wear (the minimalist in me says I should try for 5, or even 3 jackets total, but that’s hard!) along with two more which I love but are too ‘vintagey’ to throw on without a second thought. In fact I don’t think I’ve yet worn my ‘favourite’ Cal outdoors. Go figure! I’ve also brought and sold at least 30(!) further jackets along the way to figuring out what I like, which seems to be black cross-zips.

I’m aware that 7+ black cross zips may seem excessive for a single style and part of this post is in an effort to clarify if I really need to keep all of these, or if I can maybe get it down at least to 5. Part of me does love the idea of having ‘one good thing’, but it must be said that even if I sold all of these for what I paid, I still wouldn’t be able to afford a Himel Bros jacket!

I’m going to work chronologically through the regular wearers, followed by the couple of closet queens and finally try and pick out some themes from all the jackets I’ve sold. I have photographed all jackets both off and on, with ‘in the wild’ pictures of the regular wearers, too!

 

[unhatted]

The regular rotation

Schott 618 (1994) 36, 4.7lbs

The second jacket I bought after finding TFL in early 2022 and I’m wearing it on the train as I begin this. Any normal person would have called it quits with this and it is still perhaps my best fitting jacket. Certainly it is the jacket which best balances mobility with an instagram-slim fit. It’s also the heaviest hide I’ve had on a 618.

I was going to say this is the only Schott I haven’t sold but actually it is the only jacket I have sold and bought back so I have actually sold every Schott I have ever owned (8 of them). Clearly I have mixed feelings about Schotts. This one aside, I’ve usually been underwhelmed by the leather and I’ve never quite got on with the very upright(?) lapel angle, preferring the more dramatic angle of a Vanson or Cal collar. That said, I immediately missed this when I sold it, wear it a lot, and it’s not going anywhere!

Five Star Leather LAPD (2024) custom sizing, 4.5lbs

My second and last jacket from the much enthused and maligned Five Star. After searching fruitlessly for a Cal in my size for around a year I gave in and ordered a five star LAPD which was patterned after a much larger original supplied by a member here. I got it in goat rather than the standard horse, both because it was said to be their most reliable hide and because it was significantly cheaper. Thankfully, it arrived in a heavy, unsmelly, non-corrected goat hide to roughly the specified measurements, and fits like a glove. Due to the softness and apparent indestructibility of the goat hide, and the rather wonderful mouton collar this came with, this is probably my most worn jacket, certainly the one I throw on when I don’t want to think about the wellbeing of my jacket.

Vanson Model E (2003) 36, 6.7lbs

My first Vanson and the reason I bought all the others. This is a comp-weight beast of a jacket that would likely fit well even without the side laces and I much prefer the lapel angle over Schott’s. The detachable (faux) mouton is brilliant though a real one would be even better. At almost 7lbs it is the heaviest I would want to go (as a non rider) and thick enough to rule out spring or autumn transitional wear. Otherwise it’s close to perfect.

(cont.)

 

[unhatted]

Vanson Atlas (Early 90s) 38, 5.1lbs

This is the minimalist cross-zip I wanted when I first started looking for a double rider. No belt or loops, no epaulettes, no gussets, no quilting, just gorgeous comp weight cowhide in a simple, purposeful jacket. I love the purity of the design and almost all of the proportions—I just wish the upper sleeves and shoulders were a bit less balloony.

Cal CHP cross-zip (70s) no size tag, 4.9lbs

My fourth attempt to get a Cal that fits and probably the best/most wearable fit yet. The condition is at the sweet spot of being slightly battered without being in any way fragile so it’s the one pre-90s jacket I don’t feel I have to baby at all. The mid-weight hide is very easy to wear, but it does mean the lapels and collar are a bit floppy/wrinkled. Also has balloonier sleeves than I’d like.

Al’s padded CHP cross-zip (90s) no size tag, 5.4lbs

My fifth Al’s and the best fit of the bunch. I had a couple of unpadded ones in a similar size from the same era but the gussets on the unpadded ones made the fit slightly less flattering and I also love the padding! The leather is reliably great on these and the stitching and patterning much more consistent than Cals, though it’s a very distinct, wide and short cut that they have. I love the fit on this by its also the only one of these I can’t wear with my shirt untucked…

(cont.)

 

[unhatted]

Vanson C2 (1994) 38, 5.4lbs

The C2 feels like a parallel universe 618. They’re both the classic 4 pocket layout that I would draw if I had to draw a cross-zip from memory, and on paper the dimensions are very similar, but the effect is somehow quite different. This is mainly down to the lapels and brass hardware, but the shape is also quite distinct. I thought this was a little too large when I received it, but I don’t think it looks that way on, and it’s very comfortable and mobile. The only negative I can think of is that the collar is a bit puny!

(cont.)

 

[photo2u]

Nice jackets. The 5* looks impressive for the price. The Goat looks like it will survive years of riding.

 

[unhatted]

Closet Queen and King

I’ve already posted about these on the CHP thread so I’ll reflect on why they’re closet queens. In both cases it’s partly just that they feel more ‘vintage’ than my other Cal. For example, I wonder about getting them wet in a way that doesn’t trouble me with any of my other jackets. But there are also some specifics which I’ll get into below.

Cal CHP cross-zip (early 70s) no size tag, 5.6lbs

While this in many ways looks like a better fit than the above Cal, it’s on the edge of too small and the thick, heavy hide doesn’t help with mobility.

Cal CHP straight-zip (70s) 40L, 4.9lbs

It’s a straight zip. I love these on other people but I just don’t enjoy it in the same way as all the above jackets!

Jackets past and future

And finally, a very brief roundup of the jackets I didn’t keep:

8 Schott/Becks

-4 side-lace (999, 125x2, 115)
-3 X18s (618x2, 118)
-1 straight zip (AT101)

4 British Lewis-Type Jackets

-1 James Grose Manila
-1 Dobbs Viscount
-1 Lewis Lightning
-1 Leather Monkeys Lightning style

4 Al’s Leather

-4 cross-zips

3 HH Aeros

-1 Highwayman
-1 Half belt
-1 MCJ

2 Cal Leather

-2 cross-zip CHPs

2 Vansons

-1 Mule
-1 Model E

2 Chinese Leather Jackets

-1 Cidu Cafe Racer
-1 Simons Mulholland

1 Golden Bear cross-zip CHP

1 Montgomery Ward cross-zip

1 Skull JeansJapanese HH cafe racer

1 Five Star cross-zip

1 No-name shearling

As for the future, like many of us periodically claim, I’m trying to curb further buying. However, I’ve yet to scratch the D Pocket itch (though a Vanson Raid may take care of this!) and I have always wanted to try a Johnson Leathers M-500 so we’ll see!

 

[TartuWolf]

Wow, waiting for the follow up posts is like waiting for a new episode of your favorite series - the suspense is real!

 

[photo2u]

Closet Queen and King

I’ve already posted about these on the CHP thread so I’ll reflect on why they’re closet queens. In both cases it’s partly just that they feel more ‘vintage’ than my other Cal. For example, I wonder about getting them wet in a way that doesn’t trouble me with any of my other jackets. But there are also some specifics which I’ll get into below.

Cal CHP cross-zip (early 70s) no size tag, 5.6lbs

While this in many ways looks like a better fit than the above Cal, it’s on the edge of too small and the thick, heavy hide doesn’t help with mobility.

View attachment 739347 View attachment 739348

Cal CHP straight-zip (70s) no size tag, 4.9lbs

It’s a straight zip. I love these on other people but I just don’t enjoy it in the same way as all the above jackets!

View attachment 739349 View attachment 739350

Jackets past and future

And finally, a very brief roundup of the jackets I didn’t keep:

View attachment 739351

8 Schott/Becks

-4 side-lace (999, 125x2, 115)
-3 X18s (618x2, 118)
-1 straight zip (AT101)

4 British Lewis-Type Jackets

-1 James Grose Manila
-1 Dobbs Viscount
-1 Lewis Lightning
-1 Leather Monkeys Lightning style

4 Al’s Leather

-4 cross-zips

3 HH Aeros

-1 Highwayman
-1 Half belt
-1 MCJ

2 Cal Leather

-2 cross-zip CHPs

2 Vansons

-1 Mule
-1 Model E

2 Chinese Leather Jackets

-1 Cidu Cafe Racer
-1 Simons Mulholland

1 Golden Bear cross-zip CHP

1 Montgomery Ward cross-zip

1 Skull JeansJapanese HH cafe racer

1 Five Star cross-zip

1 No-name shearling

As for the future, like many of us periodically claim, I’m trying to curb further buying. However, I’ve yet to scratch the D Pocket itch (though a Vanson Raid may take care of this!) and I have always wanted ti try a Johnson Leathers M-500 so we’ll see!

Next might be a strong jacket support hardware. Nothing beats a DIY built one.

 

[ton312]

That first schott was the one and done grand slam. Of course here, thats not the way and you have to repeatedly learn that lesson ad nauseam.
That Schott though. Man that’s a good ‘un.

 

[jchance]

Nice collection, thanks for sharing your journey. Do you usually wear your jacket zipped or unzipped? I ask because the jackets generally look fitted and good zipped up, so it’s hard to distinguish them. (I hate to say this, but) out of the unzipped fit pics, the 5* looks the best. Is that the only MTO one out of the 9 remaining? The second most flattering jacket of you wearing unzipped is Vanson C2. Obviously you went through selling 35 to keep 9 (7 rotating and 2 closet queens), so you had plenty of opportunities to nail down the fit. In any event, I can’t wait for the next episode to drop! I have broader questions that I want to ask, which I recently asked Carlos, but let’s save those for after the season finale.

 

[Professor100]

I have to agree with @ton312, that Schott is such a beauty. As someone who has WAY more leather jackets than I need, I get why you explored the nuances of the other jackets. But that first Schott is so complete and perfect.

 

[unhatted]

Next might be a strong jacket support hardware. Nothing beats a DIY built one.

Yes! I haven’t calculated the collective weight but I suspect my (DIY) closet hanger is fighting for its life. Of course the sane option is to reduce numbers…

That first schott was the one and done grand slam. Of course here, thats not the way and you have to repeatedly learn that lesson ad nauseam.

You’re certainly right as far as Schotts go. It took me 7 more (and selling and rebuying this, thank you that person in Germany) to realise how exceptional this one is. As for whether it could be my only jacket, surely the collar/lapel king can understand why I also need a bit more lapel in my life—compared to the rest of my jackets it’s practically a straight zip!

But I yes, I absolutely could have avoided a lot more buying and selling all round. Up to this point I’ve enjoyed trying out jackets as a way to learn about them (and with CHPs in particular, chasing the best fit). But I’m also aware that I’m reaching the point where the only thing I’m still learning is that I never learn.

But that first Schott is so complete and perfect.

I agree though technically of course it is far from complete! When I got the jacket it still had its belt and epaulettes but they were in poor condition—the belt was coming unstitched and missing several grommets and the epaulettes were crinkled and distorted with one stretched much longer than the other, presumably from being used to store something while riding in the rain. Riding high on my limited knowledge of jackets like the FC Leon custom, I took the drastic step of chopping them off (I have since tried to coin this kind of customised jacket as the ‘circumcised’ version but at least one lounger has requested I stop doing this). Would I do it again? Probably, but with at least a little more hesitation!

Do you usually wear your jacket zipped or unzipped?

Zipped. While I do sometimes wear them open I won’t keep a jacket unless it can zip fully to the top of the zipper. It rains frequently enough where I live to make that essential to me.

The Five Star is indeed the only MTO jacket—since my first few inexpensive Chinese and 5* jackets I’ve only bought used. But actually I think the reason it looks better when open is one of drape rather than fit, due to the goathide. The Model E has one of the slimmest fits but also looks worst open due to the thick leather in multiple layers (this has the leather-lined ‘***’ pocket).

Grateful for everyone’s thoughts and reflections and interesting that the two least typically forum-favourite brands (debatable with Schott perhaps, but compared to the others) are getting the most nods! I’ll be the first to admit I’m susceptible to brand groupthink, though I know what I don’t like (I’m looking at you, Aero).

Always interested to hear other people’s favourites and thoughts on fit etc. For my part, just the act of taking the photos and writing up my thoughts was pretty clarifying.

If I had to reduce to 5 jackets I am fairly sure I know what these would be, the snag being that I don’t own one of these:

-Schott 618
-Five Star LAPD
-Al’s Padded CHP
-Vanson C2
-Cal CHP cross-zip which fits somewhere between the two I have!

Whether or not I will get rid of the rest I don’t know. I think I would probably miss the other two Vansons. But I’d certainly sell my two Cals if I found one in a size between them (especially without epaulettes!).

 

[Tom71]

Great post!

Very insightful to have the sizing information. It appears that especially Vanson seem to have changed their sizing over the decades, otherwise you would positively swim in a C2 one size up from the "E".

I follow your sentiments on Schott word-by-word. I have always been somewhat underwhelemed by the hides, and the fit was never "quite" right.
That only changed when I got the 613SH, but I am still lusting about a classic 118/613/618 despite knowing, it won´t scratch the itch.

Super collection, and most of all, you do pull them off big time!

 

[Bfd70]

Great post. Super fun. Tough to pick a winner.

 

[TartuWolf]

-Schott 618
-Five Star LAPD
-Al’s Padded CHP
-Vanson C2
-Cal CHP cross-zip which fits somewhere between the two I have!

Interesting, that's EXCATLY what I have picked as well. The Atlas and E are the least appealing from the fit photos to me somehow. Pains me to say that with the model E being my favorite Vanson model.

 

[Professor100]

I agree though technically of course it is far from complete! When I got the jacket it still had its belt and epaulettes but they were in poor condition—the belt was coming unstitched and missing several grommets and the epaulettes were crinkled and distorted with one stretched much longer than the other, presumably from being used to store something while riding in the rain. Riding high on my limited knowledge of jackets like the FC Leon custom, I took the drastic step of chopping them off (I have since tried to coin this kind of customised jacket as the ‘circumcised’ version but at least one lounger has requested I stop doing this). Would I do it again? Probably, but with at least a little more hesitation!

I know it's not a popular opinion here, but I understand why you removed the belt and epaulettes. I'm not personally a fan of epaulettes on any garment, and, not being a motorcycle rider, the belt would just be a nuisance. It's the clean lines without those elements that make me like that jacket so much. I support you in that decision.