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Which one side-by-side comparison of two Leather Jackets

Salmosalar

A-List Customer
Messages
414
I’ll offer up a tri-by-side:):):)
All Black halfbelts.
View attachment 490157 View attachment 490156 View attachment 490158
I have placed them in the order of my ranking.
1-Regius Windward
Superior pattern, design and construction, wins out across the board.
2-Aero OG Herc- outstanding build, slightly restrictive pattern, superb leather, safe collar
3-ELMC Californian- horrible pattern, weak collar, beautiful leather, superb construction.

I think this is a more fair fight as all three are in the same tier. I kind of feel like putting 5 Star against ELMC is like putting Tyson in the ring with Don Knots.
I ranked these three blind and came to the same conclusion - the Regius is a clear winner, the Eastman this time is the weakest offering - in fact the collars alone would lead to this same ranking imo! Other details reinforce that - the Regius handwarmers and stitching around them are superb. The ELMC just seems a bit uninspiring tbh. The Aero does not put a foot wrong, but the Regius has that extra layer of polish and “wow” factor that sets it above.
 

Brandrea33

One Too Many
Messages
1,031
The leather on the Eastman looks cooler, has more of a vintage vibe.

Which one “feels” better to wear.
 

KBlake

One Too Many
Messages
1,056
My problem with the 5* steer is that it can look very uniform and lacking character. It also doesn’t develop creases and folds with use. I’ve been opting for goat or HH instead.
 

bn1966

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,086
Location
UK
I’ve only kept one Five Star jacket purchase (deerskin type 3 Trucker) & had problems with dye not being properly fixed which to be fair Shaun sorted. I’m now firmly back in the Eastmans camp with you get what you pay for even though you may have to pay a lot, I just enjoy wearing them more…
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
24,726
Location
London, UK
In my view, it's great that we have all these options at various price points these days. It's easy to find fault with the cheaper end of things, but equally if you go into it with your eyes open and know what compromises are being made at the lower price, it does mean there are options there for those of us who might not want to sink a huge amount into a specific style - or might not be able to afford to do so. The Eastman is a beautiful jacket, though not one I'd buy myself as things are, as I could never justify the price there are these days - likely I'd split the difference and opt for an Aero J106. Pound for pound, the FiveStar looks like it punches above its weight. The ELMC's (much) higher price will buy a nicer jacket, though as ever with the law of diminishing returns, it's always going to be a matter of personal choice as to whether the improvements match the price.


A difference that interests me is the difference in chest pocket placement, as well as a few other minor differences. I'd say the ELMC is clearly a reproduction, whereas the FiveStar seeks to offer a certain period style without replicating the exact details of a particular jacket. Both of these approaches can have their advantages. As has been noted in another post above, on a civilian style (milspec is different, because with a military design repro it seems to me what one is actually buying is in large part the accuracy of the reproduction of that very uniform spec) this can sometimes improve practical use of pockets and such, and so can be a good thing providing it doesn't throw off the balance of the original design or look jarringly out of place (which, in turn, can be somewhat subjective, of course). I know if I were to add another Brando-style to my wardrobe, I'd prefer to have the 'handwarmer' pockets placed closer the centre than they are on my Schott 618; the Schott has them close enough to the outside seams that I can't comfortably use them. Not as handwarmers, but as somewhere I can store something and retrieve it while wearing the jacket. Fine for decoration, but rather kills any real utility a zipped pocket might have. Of course, if ever I lucked into a ridiculously cheap 118 used, I'd still buy it!
 

58panheadfan

One Too Many
Messages
1,521
Location
Switzerland
... A difference that interests me is the difference in chest pocket placement, as well as a few other minor differences. I'd say the ELMC is clearly a reproduction, whereas the FiveStar seeks to offer a certain period style without replicating the exact details of a particular jacket. Both of these approaches can have their advantages...
Good input about the placement of the chest pockets. In fact, when I look at pictures of old original D-pocket jackets,
they were placed lower, closer to the D-pocket. That's why I compared my FiveStar with my Thedi MTC-127949.
The Chest pocket is set identical on both jackets, 8.65" (22 cm) measured from the shoulder/neck hem.
I don't think the pockets are out of place visually by both, although the breast pocket on the Thedi is slanted.
I'm actually quite satisfied how FiveStar placed the chest pocket, not 100% authentic but it stands out
from my ELMC which makes the whole thing more interesting...

FL_FiveStar_vs_Thedi_Chest Pocket.jpg
 
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58panheadfan

One Too Many
Messages
1,521
Location
Switzerland
There are also other examples (here seen on Aero) that do not have the exact distance from chest pocket to D-pocket as seen on most originals. I was a bit concerned when I read a post the chest pocket on my FiveStar is set too high. That was the only point I forgot to mention on my order sheet because I was counting on FiveStar to attach the chest pocket as shown on their Website, so a little lower. Therefore, forward any Info to FiveStar! Now I'm reassured how of the chest pocket on the FiveStar is set and doesn't look off ;)

FL_FiveStar_vs_Aero_Chest Pocket.jpg

> Aero > FiveStar > Aero
 
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