Patch pockets on an oprhaned suit jacket
Fil: I agree - patch pockets are associated with more casual jackets, and would presumably therefore be more appropriate on a separated suit jacket functioning less formally. Other pocket-types - jetted, flap, etc. - tend to be considered more formal...
DIY cravats...
I've created several by simply purchasing a large square of fabric from a material shop - in particular, one in Walthamstow High Street in East London - which one simply folds into a triangle, and then rolls from tip to base; one then either ties and tucks into the shirt-collar...
Sharp Suits
'Sharp Suits' by Eric Musgrave; not only a history of the suit but a fantastic collection of photographs - a veritable treasure-trove. Much recommended!
And then they invented cameras...
Any chance someone could take a photo of this impressive-sounding display for those poor mortals such as myself who can't get over there ?
Dress waistcoats.
It's my understanding that waistcoats worn with dinner jackets are cut straight across the bottom, rather than having points - these are supposed to be always worn with the bottom button done up, thereby creating a clean line across.
Or so I've read. Somewhere.
A foot in both camps...
I work in a university music department, where I play all the time; a classical accompanist and repetiteur with an interest in French song and contemporary Minimalism, and, when I can, play jazz as well, influences are Chick Corea and Keith Jarrett, although I'm sure...
Sartorial self-help...
'Gentleman: A Timless Fashion' by Bernhard Roetzel, and am waiting for Amazon to deliver 'A History of Men's Fashion: What The Well-Dressed Man Is Wearing' by Nicholas Storey.
With luck, my wardrobe will improve as a result of both!
A short film from the archives of British Pathe about the rising interest in men's fashion in Britain in the 1960s.
There are also a few clips about Savile Row and the tailoring process on the website archives. Happy browsing!
BBC series on Harris Tweed.
For UK members, BBC4 are currently showing a three-part series on the Harris Tweed industry here: the first episode is on the iPlayer, with the second episode being broadcast next Tuesday. The first episode was thoroughly absorbing, and made me lust after a wardrobe...
Herewith some pages from a 1944 edition of Regal's Garment Cutter, published by the fabulously-titled 'American Gentleman Publishing Corporation' of New York.
Although I profess to have no tailoring knowledge whatsoever, it's still interesting to see plans from which clothing was made...
According to Roetzel...
According to Roetzel's book 'Gentleman: A Timeless Fashion,' the contrasting collar and cuffs shirt evolved as a compromise in the nineteenth century between the white shirt worn by the idle rich, who did not need to soil their shirts with anything as mundane as 'work' -...
Feedback
Billy Spew: the trousers aren't flared at the bottom, that may be a trick of perspective in the photo you've posted: I haven't worn flares since, oh, 1978 maybe ??!!
WofmanJack: the quality is certainly better than I've found in the average high street retailer, the jacket fits well...
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