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Buscemi's White-tie Rig on Boardwalk Empire

MisterGrey

Practically Family
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526
Location
Texas, USA
Any idea what the story is with it? It seems to fly in the face of all the rules we loungers know so well. Was this a 20s thing?

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J.J. Gittes

A-List Customer
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375
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Chinatown
I have no clue if it was just a 20's thing, but that show is very good about everything so they wouldn't use it if it wasn't at least plausible. Also, his characters style breaks many traditional rules in general. Just look at people in the crowd and other lesser characters-they usually are more conservative or bland-with the exception of the character "Chalky White" give or take a few others. Nucky is pretty out there with his color and style choices.
 
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Chasseur

Call Me a Cab
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2,494
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Hawaii
I've thought about this a fair bit actually. My conclusion, and I'm probably off base on this but... I think its a "jazz suit" style dinner jacket. Moreover, as we've talked about on some other threads in the late 19th and early 20th Centuries some men still wore the white tie with their dinner jacket before the the black tie became the norm. So those are my thoughts.
 

Guttersnipe

One Too Many
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1,942
Location
San Francisco, CA
There was a huge debate about lapels in the formal wear primer thread, which essentially centered around whether notch lapels were 1) awful and, 2) a modern invention. If I remember correctly passions flared in true FL style! What I find really interesting about the costumes on Boardwalk Empire is that, the series is set in a transitional period fashion-wise, and the character's wardrobes reflect that. When I look at clothes from the early 1920's, to me at least, the influence of the nineteenth century is readily observable.

Here's an example of what I mean; note how this fellow's tailcoat has distinctively not-peaked lapels? It's from a fashion plate from circa 1885, yet it's quite reminiscent of what Buscemi is wearing:

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The black tie guide has some really interesting factoids about the evolving nature of formal wear during the 1920's. One particular point is that black and white waistcoats were considered interchangeable in the 20's (which I think looks pretty spiffy):

1930_The_Furies_movie_Getty.JPG
 
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MisterGrey

Practically Family
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526
Location
Texas, USA
I was fixated on the shirt and vest, myself. The vest is considerably higher than the standard pique-- like a suit vest-- and appears to be some sort of brocade; and the shirt is very clearly a pleat-front instead of a pique bib.

If you look close you can see a button hole on his jacket, but I could swear I've seen him wearing a tailcoat on the series.
 

Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
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13,719
Location
USA
I've seen old plates of Formal (White Tie) rigs in various styles, few conforming to what today is considered correct.
 

Richard Warren

Practically Family
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682
Location
Bay City
I didn't know Boardwalk Empire was a show about clowns. It thought it was some sort of political/crime thing. Maybe the clowns are allegorical?
 

MisterGrey

Practically Family
Messages
526
Location
Texas, USA
I think they're referring to the carnation in the lapel and the high collar. I have to admit that Buscemi's attire on BE does have a tendency to make him look like a little boy playing dress up-- he's a very slender, slight man, but they have him wearing clothes suited to a man of a much larger stature. I get that he's supposed to be a bigshot, but I think they could have conveyed it without trying to overemphasize his presence by tailoring his clothes awkwardly.
 

cotillion

New in Town
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35
Location
California
I've read that the wardrobe dept. did extensive research before making the clothes to ensure that everything was very period accurate. They said they specifically studied what was fashionable in 1920 and apparently are very careful with their kits to not put anything from even 1921 style in. I am not an expert so I cannot tell but the level of detail certainly seems very accurate.
 

Edward

Bartender
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24,870
Location
London, UK
Don't most shows that are successful get a DVD release nowadays? I should have thought Buscemi was enough a name to sell DVDs now. I hope they do, I'd like to see it myself.
 
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MisterGrey

Practically Family
Messages
526
Location
Texas, USA
You can get the pilot episode (which has a 1 hr 15 min running time-- a sort of made-for-TV movie) for .99 cents at Best Buy as a promotional item. I've picked up a few to give to various people I know who don't have cable but are interested in seeing the series.
 

Steveb1

Familiar Face
Messages
85
Location
Baltimore Area
I have not actually seen this show but his rig looks to be a turn of the century vintage and perhaps somewhat western which is typical of the long coat. I see this as completely plausible for 1920. Even today we all don't have the latest and greatest tuxedo's and I doubt if you could rent them back then. You either owned it or you didn't.
 

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