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Clear Beaver Stetson 100

jimmy the lid

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This Stetson 100 arrived earlier this week. Most of the Stetson 100's I have seen are generally silver belly in color. This one is a dead-on match for a 7X Clear Beaver. Really beautiful color. Judging by the Stetson crest info in this thread, I have a feeling that this could be one of the earliest versions of the Stetson 100. The felt is extremely dense and smooth, as is typical of this model. Although the crown is stiffer than on a 7X CB, the brim is almost as soft. Whether this is just a function of being handled for a longer period of time is hard to say -- but, I would have to say that, overall, this Stetson 100 is just a bit softer than later versions I have handled. The felt is in beautiful condition. Tragically, however, the stitches attaching the sweat to the hat seem to have reached the end of the road. As I tried the hat on, I heard a couple of "pops" as the stiches gave out. The hat fits perfectly, but the stitching is just a no go. So, sadly, it looks like I'll have to have Optimo replace the sweat -- something I'll definitely do, since this one is going to see a lot of time on my noggin'. :)

OpenCrown-27.jpg


Liner-26.jpg


LinerLogo-1.jpg


SweatLogo.jpg


StetsonSweat-1.jpg


S100-1.jpg


S100-L.jpg


S100-2.jpg




Cheers,
JtL
 

Michaelshane

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I have this one going to Optimo for the same problem,Stitches letting go.The wind string is rotten too,very old hat I think.

P1040711.jpg
[/IMG]

The liner and sweat are identical to yours.
 

tortswon

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Philadelphia, PA
What a beauty, Jimmy! Sorry about the sweat. I share your pain on that, the same thing happened to my Stratoliner. I sent mine off to Art and he replaced it. The original sweat sits in the box with the hat, like an internal organ of a mummified pharoah. The consolation is that when I wear the hat, no one sees the sweat and I don't think about it. And the new sweat is more comfortable than the dries brittle one would be. Wear it well. Best, Sam
 

HarpPlayerGene

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North Central Florida
Wooooo, that is a good one indeed. I like the photos and descriptions you share with us. Next best thing, y'know? :) Is it just stitching (meaning threads breaking) or is the actual leather tearing through where the stitches are?
 

jimmy the lid

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HarpPlayerGene said:
Is it just stitching (meaning threads breaking) or is the actual leather tearing through where the stitches are?

First of all, many thanks, Gents. ;)

Gene, the sweatband itself is in beautiful shape, and it is securely attached to the reed material -- no problem with the stitching whatsoever. What's giving way is the stitching that secures the reed material itself to the hat. Given this state of affairs, I'm wondering if it might not be possible to re-attach the original sweat. That would be a fantastic result -- but I just don't know...

michaelshane -- that particular box didn't come with the hat. Stetson had two hat boxes that featured Carpenter's Hall in Philadelphia. This was the original version. :)

Cheers,
JtL
 

HarpPlayerGene

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jimmy the lid said:
I'm wondering if it might not be possible to re-attach the original sweat.

I would make a firm effort to get a hatter to see it that way if at all possible, even if it meant some hand sewing which falls outside of the regular price sheet. Good luck with that process.

Please update us on what you are told about whether it can be done, etc. It'll be educational for a number of us vintage hat enthusiasts around here with similar sweatband situations.
 

Woodfluter

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Georgia
First off Jimmy, that's a totally gorgeous hat! Congrats!
Well worth sending to Optimo.

Like Gene, I would like to know if they can refurbish it with the original sweatband. From your description I'd certainly think they could.

So I take it that the broken stitches were not through the leather, but rather through some fabric to which the leather was attached and then long-stitched to the felt. Right?

If the stitches were through the leather, you could replace them by hand and easily guide the needle back into the original holes. If done with machine, this gets more tricky. If the stitches were in the fabric, shouldn't this be very easy?

Side question:
How come we see some quite old hats where the stitching is very sound, and then others (often newer) that are breaking? Any ideas? Exposure to sweat, storage condition, different types of thread?

- Bill
 

feltfan

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Oakland, CA, USA
Can't quite make out the difference in color between this one
and your other 100s. Mind sending it my way for a closer look?

Nice lid.
 

jimmy the lid

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USA
Woodfluter said:
So I take it that the broken stitches were not through the leather, but rather through some fabric to which the leather was attached and then long-stitched to the felt. Right?

Right you are, Bill. The plastic-y material covering the reed extends into a kind of flap. The leather sweat itself is attached to the reed/flap. In turn, it is this flap that is sewn to the felt, thereby attaching the sweat to the hat. The stitches holding the flap to the hat seem to be giving out (see first photo). The stitches holding the leather sweat to the flap itself (the brown stitches visible in the photos), however, seem to be in fine shape (see second photo). So, the question will be -- is it possible to re-attach this flap to the hat so that the original sweat can be salvaged.


Stitching1.jpg


Stitching2.jpg



Cheers,
JtL
 

jonbuilder

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jimmy the lid said:
First of all, many thanks, Gents. ;)

Gene, the sweatband itself is in beautiful shape, and it is securely attached to the reed material -- no problem with the stitching whatsoever. What's giving way is the stitching that secures the reed material itself to the hat. Given this state of affairs, I'm wondering if it might not be possible to re-attach the original sweat. That would be a fantastic result -- but I just don't know...


Art was able to re stitch a sweat on my 7X clear. It had the reed to hat stitching rotting
BTW nice hat jimmy I have two 100s myself I need to get around to posting them one day
 

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