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FS: 1948 Howard Clothes Lampaka Ulster-type DB belted back overcoat Sz 38

Rabbit

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Germany
1948 Howard Clothes Lampaka Ulster-type DB belted back overcoat, grey wool-alpaka-blend, quarterlined with turnback half-cuffs, dated Oct 1st 1948 on the back side of the 1939-49 Union label

$280.- shipped worldwide from Germany

Has been offered before, changed my mind, now available again as I have quite enough overcoats. I'm still happy to keep it if no one wants it for the asking price.

Condition practically mint! Details further below.


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Pics show coat laid on desk, with half of the lower back hanging down and invisible. All pics with flash, so the rayon liner appears much shinier than it reality.

AUvrFuV.jpg



You may have seen ads for and labels of "the warmth without the weight"-overcoats. Well, this one isn't labeled as such but it clearly falls into this category; these fabrics were marketed with names such as Lampagora, Alpacuna, Lampaka, Alpacama etc.
They're not always what the name implies (note: lama=alpaka, angora=mohair), but from what I could find out about it, they're indeed wool blends with alpaka in them, and often mohair as well.
Despite the marketing slogan "the warmth without the weight" these coats were still made of a heavier weight fabric. I'd say it has the warmth of a heavy Greatcoat fabric, but the actual weight must be lower, but not by much.
This one feels like wool mixed with lots of alpaka, could be mohair in it as well. It's a thick, almost bulky fabric with a soft surface - nowhere near as bulky as a teddy coat, but much more bulky than, say, the melton wool used for heavy military greatcoats. This thing is built like a tank and should outlast every one of us.

A5fiZUI.jpg
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Overall size estimated at 38. I'm a thin size 37 and it would fit a size 38 ideally.

Measurements:
chest: 21.5"
shoulder (upper/ outer seam, not further below towards the shoulder blades): 18"
back length (neck seam to hem): 44"
sleeve: 25.2" (could be shortened by a competent alteration tailor in a manner that the result looks exactly like the original)

No alterations were made.

Silhouette:
The coat does have a waist suppression mainly due to the backbelt, but the silhouette is not like the early/mid 30s hourglass silhouette.
If you like a comfortable fit that doesn't restrict you in any way, the late 40s silhouette could be your thing.

This collage may help you understand the silhouette of this coat compared to other cuts. I'm 5'8", 136 lbs, 37 chest.
- The Lampaka is on the far right.
- Starting from the left, #1 and #2: early 20s, narrow shoulder
- #3 and #4: early/mid 30s, narrow shoulder but with the shoulder seam running differently, plus hourglass cut
- #5: CC41, shoulders have more built-up and are beginning to get wider
- #6: the military-type CD Greatcoat, 1952

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Specs:
- fabric is a darker grey with bits of lighter silvergrey hair in it
- sleeves have turnback cuffs, half-sided
- belted back has decorative buttons
- quarter-liner is rayon, eggplant colored, same as the piping

Condition:
Nearly flawless, only a few minor surface marks that are inconspicuous due to the thick fabric with its longer, interlocked hair. The liner is also flawless, even at the areas that are normally exposed to wear and tear (lower neck, armpits). The coat has been dry-cleaned and has no odours.
One repaired and practically invisible flaw only:
On the belted back, one of the buttons had been cracked in two pieces. Rather than replace all the original bottons, I repaired the cracked button with superglue. The coat has been through dry-cleaning since the repair was made, and the repaired button is still fine. All you see is a very thin line where the crack was, there's no glue sticking out from under the crack.


$280.- shipped worldwide from Germany

As usual, I'm asking less than what I have into it. Any questions, just ask. PM me if you're interested.
 

Rabbit

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Germany
Some close-ups of the outer fabric and the liner. The fabric has a wonderful nap and feels like a soft blanket - except of course that is doesn't pill at all.

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fPg1iTS.jpg
 

bsharpblues

New in Town
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Singapore
that is such a fantastic collage of you (that is you??) in the different era overcoats! i m downloading that picture bcos it shows so many different styles in one pic. very bad-ass! rabbit.
 

Tri Tran

New in Town
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1
It's really nice that I have same size as you. Ideally, I'd love to buy #3 or #5 (if you wanna sell) as I love hourglass style and strong shoulder type.
 

Rabbit

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2,561
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Germany
It's really nice that I have same size as you. Ideally, I'd love to buy #3 or #5 (if you wanna sell) as I love hourglass style and strong shoulder type.

Sorry, only the Lampaka is for sale, although I might sell #4, the early/mid30s navy Paletot. The fabric is a bit worn on #4, though, while the Lampaka is practically mint.
 

Rabbit

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2,561
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Germany
Off-season offer: From now until Sunday (20th, this weekend) available for $195.- shipped worldwide. After that, it's back to $220.-
 

Rabbit

Call Me a Cab
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2,561
Location
Germany
Hi Adrian,

yes it's available. You need more than tagged sizes to make sure about fit. Size EUR 50 = size US/UK 40 meaning a 40" body chest measurement, but this is valid only for vintage sizing as modern sizing has switched to vanity sizing which can mean anything.
We need the actual body measurements. Measure your chest over just a shirt, right under the armpits, all the way round, no chest inflation contest, just natural middle position of breathing. The coat fits a 38"-39" chest perfectly. With a 40" chest it will fit in a modern way, with less allowance than what would be period-accurate.

I'm 37" chest and the coat fits a half to one full size too large.
 
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