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Hat History from The New Yorker Archives

Lefty

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Here are a few abstracts of articles from the New Yorker archives that provide a little bit of info on trends at different times as well as quality and marketing of some hat brands. Some really provide great information, while others are just funny. I'll add more as I find them.

First Source

E. B. White, The Talk of the Town, ""Hatter"," The New Yorker, March 28, 1931, p. 13

B. Lachmann, New York's oldest hatter. Shop at 554 Hudson Street. Tells how good the hat business used to be years ago, when brewers gave hats to saloonkeepers and bartenders at Christmas.. Describes the various kinds of hats that were popular then; the doubledecker, a gray derby; the white cassimere, a high white felt shaped like high hat of today. Stetson used to work on same factory bench with him.

Second Source

Richard Lockridge, The Talk of the Town, ""Block that sinus!" Talk," The New Yorker, February 27, 1932, p. 7

Hatters try to stop fad of going without hats by placards stressing sinus troubles and the effeminacy of the habit. Students observed didn't seem to be suffering from either complaint.

Third Source

E. J. Kahn, The Talk of the Town, "Hats On," The New Yorker, September 28, 1946, p. 19

Talk. Stanley expedition to Danbury for an investigation of men's hatlessness. N. Y. is the most hatless city in the country. Danbury itself is not 100% hatted. Factories used to have a rule no employees could come to work hatless; buyers, however, are instructed not to interview hatless salesmen. Twelve per cent of all men never wear hats. 32% always wear hats. 98% of all men over 45 own at least one hat. Only 70% of college men own hats. Only 62% of college men consider hats important to personal appearance, veterans, 68% of them, do. Early in this century U. S. had 25 million males old enough for hats, and the annual production was 36 million; just before the war 50 million hat-males, but production of felts only 22 million. 59% of the women dislike hatless men. Goes into the question of baldness because of hats.

Fourth Source

Brendan Gill, The Talk of the Town, "Up From Plugs," The New Yorker, February 7, 1953, p. 24

Talk story about homburg hats, sales of which have gone up since Pres. Eisenhower announced he would wear a homburg for the Inauguration rather than a silk hat. Hat shops where sales have increased: Cavanagh, Thomas Begg, Young's Hat Stores, Knox, Dobbs, Lee Hats, Adam Hats. The only quiet spot was M. Flugelman, Inc. which made the silk hats worn at Inaugurations by all incoming Presidents since Theodore Roosevelt. Mortimer Loeb, present head of this company, said they tried to get Ike to continue tradition but were unsuccessful. Warren S. Smith, secretary-treasurer of the Hat Research Foundation said homburgs have been increasing in popularity for many years. The homburg outwears every other kind of hat except the derby which it has pretty well displaced. The homburg was devised for Edward VII in the eighteen-nineties at Homburg vor der Hohe, a town in Hesse-Nassau, that was his favorite watering place.

Fifth Source

Geoffrey T. Hellman, The Talk of the Town, "Hat Champ," The New Yorker, September 15, 1956, p. 33

Talk. Interview with Bernard L. Salesky, president of the Hat Corporation of America. The Corporation has just bought, for just under 2 million dollars, the Champ Hats, Inc., & a number of affiliate companies owned by Mr. S. & his 3 brothers, Joseph, David & Charles. This makes the Corporation the 2nd biggest hat manufacturing firm in the world. The Corportion has established a Cavanagh store in London-it has thre divisions: Cavanagh, Knox & Dobbs. Mr. S. is trying to patter their operation after General Motors: Cavanagh is their Cadillac division, Knox their Oldsmobile division, Dobbs their Buick Division, & Champ Hats their Chevrolet division They will sell Champ hats at Gimbel's, but not at Saks-5th Ave. Champs are masshats, the Corporation's class hats. Mr. Doesn't believe in scaring men into wearing hats; but to buy them to complement the wardrobe. Mr. S. is theoldest of seven children. His father, a Polish immigrant used to cut & block caps & his mother would sew them. His two other brothers Irving & Phoenix are doctors.

Sixth Source

Geoffrey T. Hellman, The Talk of the Town, "Boom," The New Yorker, June 28, 1958, p. 22

Talk. Interview with Bernard L. Salesky, president of the Hat Corp. of America, about the newest fashion in men's hats - the boater, or stiff straw sailor. (Two years ago the company added Champ Hats to a stable already consisting of Cavanagh, Knox & Dobbs). He said hats make a man look important. He got the idea of reviving the boater, a style of the twenties, after seeing women wear chemises. When boaters came out on the market this year they sold very well - the demand exceeding the supply. Striped ribbon on the hats sell best. They cost $5.95 to $10.00. The hats are being sewn in Italy now. Mr. Salesky says he sells hats on the basis of style, not comfort. The derby is coming back next fall, he says, because it goes with boaters. Business for the first 6 mos. of the year was $10,300,000.
 

Lefty

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Seventh Source

Harold Ross, The Talk of the Town, "Crania," The New Yorker, December 4, 1937, p. 23

Lengthy talk story about Knox Hat Store on Fifth Avenue, about hats & head-sizes. Head size of men measured by apparatus called conformateur, which is placed on head and little keys pop out. This machine now going to be used by J. Edgar Hoover in relation to criminality. Tells average headsize in men is 71/8, but there are many different shapes - long heads (from front to back) and "square heads" which are the wide ones.

Eighth Source

Russell Maloney, The Talk of the Town, "Texan.," The New Yorker, October 30, 1937, p. 17

Talk story about Amon G. Carter, publisher of the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. Many New Yorkers know Mr. Carter through his custom of seizing visiting celebrities, entertaining them largely at his ranch outside Fort Worth, & keeping their hats. Mr. Carter seldom lets a man get away in the hat he came with; he keeps on hand a supply of Borsalino felts, in all sizes, and trades a Borsalino for the visitor's old hat, inscribed with some suitable sentiment.

Ninth Source

Harold Ross, The Talk of the Town, "A Quarter For Mr. Roth," The New Yorker, May 25, 1935, p. 14

Talk story about the hat checking industry in the city. A gentleman named Sol Roth, with offices in the Knickerbocker Building, has a virtual monopoly in the Chinese restaurants. Concessionaires pay from a hundred to a thousand a month to operate in medium-sized places & much more in larger ones. ($2200 at the Hollywood Restaurant) Mr. Ralph Mollet is to get the checking privilege at the Rainbow Room. Some 5000 girls are supposed to hat check in N.Y. Cigarette girls are expected to turn tips equal to 50% of the sales, Mrs. Catherine Cripps, who has been hat-checking since 1914, has formed the Wardrobe & Hatcheck Attendants Union Local No. 135. Lately the night clubs have got in trouble with the State Department of Labor on account of allowing the girls to work after 10 P.M.

[There are too many articles on the hat check industry to include them all here.]

Tenth Source

E. B. White, Comment, "Comment.," The New Yorker, September 24, 1932, p. 9

Dobbs has opened a new shop at 711 Fifth Avenue and for delivering hats they have bought a fine coach, drawn by two fine horses, and driven by an elegant coachman. Time was when at the sound of prancing hooves we would look up to see Mrs. Frank Spencer Witherbee or Miss Sarah Cooper Hewitt go by in their carriages, but now we see a carriage full of hats go by.

Eleventh Source

John McCarten, The Talk of the Town, "Into the Act," The New Yorker, December 10, 1955, p. 44

A man had a hat made to order by Herbert Johnson, of London. The other day he left it at Brooks Brothers, Herbert Johnson's N.Y. agents, for some minor repairs and a thorough cleaning. When he got it back, the hat-band bore the legend "Made in England by Herbert Johnson for Brooks Brothers."

[I'd love to read the rest of that one.]

That's everything I could find up to 1960. Some of these could probably be used to expand upon specific topics in other threads, but I'll leave that up to someone else.
 

Lefty

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I'm just doin' what I can to build up the info. here, but I appreciate the "thank you".

I thought you'd be particularly interested in the eighth one, and I think Mingo, who's been maintaining that thread of the different hat compainies, might find some value here.
 

jimmy the lid

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Yup, you're right -- I checked out the eighth one immediately. ;) It confirms that, prior to Stetson's involvement, Amon Carter's lids were made by Borsalino. I had suspected that perhaps the actual shift to Stetson happened sometime in the late 30's -- and the New Yorker blurb seems to indicate that the shift had not yet occurred by the time the article was written in 1937. Good info.

Cheers,
JtL
 

Lefty

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Any idea what this means:
"Early in this century U. S. had 25 million males old enough for hats..."

"Hey man, if I'm old enough to go to war, I'm old enough to wear a hat!"
 

Hat Chick

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Greetings and Salutations!~

My thanks as well!
Regarding the Fourth Source and Homburgs:

I've been lurking about for a week or so, haven't even formally introduced myself... but I couldn't pass this one up without comment: apparently the homburg craze of 1953 stuck with my father, since that is the style of Cavanagh he chose to purchase while vacationing in NYC during 1971 (omg, does that qualify as "vintage"?!?)

While in high school and going through a Hat phase I swiped that hat (along with others) by "borrowing" it... permanently. (It sometimes pays off to be an only child/daughter. :D ) Somehow I never seemed to outgrow that phase and now I have hatboxes of hats stacked in my closet, with multiple hats inside them carefully nested inside each other as only odd and squishy women's hats can be. Did that make sense? My apologies, I'm tired and that makes me babble (more than usual). Imagine a shaped hat with a soft cap underneath and a beret inside the cap....

ANYWAY:
That homburg has remained a life-long favourite of mine, faded binding and all, and this forum is the first place I've come across that has folks who'd truly understand. My fashion tastes run to a variety of periods, but Gentlemen never go out of style and I'm quite glad to have found y'all!

I've got more to say, questions to ask, etc. but I'll get to all that in due time. I just had to finally say "Hi!"


Cheers!

~Juliana
 

Lefty

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Welcome to the Lounge!
You should start a thread to introduce yourself. That way, everyone will see it, not just the readers who were interested in the title of this one. Be sure to post some photos of your hats.

Lurking is fun, but posting is far better. :)
 

kaosharper1

One Too Many
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Average size 7 1/8 in 1937?

Interesting that the average size in 1937 was 7 1/8 in the article. Either it was not a representative sample, or only men with smaller heads took care of their hats considering how difficult it is to find a vintage hat in larger sizes. Assuming that head sizes are normally distributed, there should be as many vintage hats with sizes larger than 7 1/8 as smaller. As we've seen on ebay, that doesn't seem to be the case.
 

Tango Yankee

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Lefty,

Thanks for posting the clips and links. They're interesting, but for me the best part was finding out that you can buy a DVD set "The Complete New Yorker" with "Every Page of Every Issue From February 1925 through April 2007" for only $39.99! That's a deal that is very hard to resist!

Hat Chick,

Welcome to the Lounge! It's great that you have your father's hat. I'm always a bit envious when fellow Loungers have their father's or grandfather's hats. My father, to my knowledge, never wore one. A photograph I have of him in L.A. in the '50s after coming home from Korea he's in a suit and tie but no hat.

Cheers,
Tom
 

Lefty

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I checked on ebay right away when I saw that price. You can get the dvd set from 2005 for under $10. I think I'm going to pick one up. I've read most of them since then.
 
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Just be sure to check that the version you buy is compatible with your operating system. Mine (I got the DVDs, not the portable hard drive) was a gift which sat on the shelf for a few months until other acquisitions prompted the purchase of the later OS.
 

J.B.

Practically Family
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Wow! Nice research there, Lefty!

Colby Jack said:
Great info Lefty!
...and number 10 describes the reason Dobbs had that "Golden Coach" series of hats...:eusa_clap :eusa_clap

heh. Yup, surely solves that little question that I've wondered about (since landing one on eBay several years ago...). :)
 

Tango Yankee

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Lefty said:
I checked on ebay right away when I saw that price. You can get the dvd set from 2005 for under $10. I think I'm going to pick one up. I've read most of them since then.

Thanks for reminding me...

We had a family emergency last night and I forgot I was going to check out the bay for them. I did so this morning and found a seller with a BIN of $15.99 with 20 listed as available. The seller's location is about 10 miles from me, so I sent a message asking if they have a store in town. Hopefully I can get one without spending the money on shipping, picking it up while running errands. :)

Cheers,
Tom
 

Tango Yankee

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tonyb said:
Just be sure to check that the version you buy is compatible with your operating system. Mine (I got the DVDs, not the portable hard drive) was a gift which sat on the shelf for a few months until other acquisitions prompted the purchase of the later OS.

Good point, you likely do need the proper DVD software to go with the DVD drive in order to look at them. I recently purchased a DVD drive that came with lots of software so I think I'll be OK--but definitely something to watch out for.

Cheers,
Tom
 

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