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Museo dell’Arte del Cappello di Ghiffa, March 14, 2017 (Part 3)

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17,248
Location
Maryland
Museo dell’Arte del Cappello di Ghiffa, March 14, 2017 (Part 3)

This is Part 3 that continues with G. Panizza & other local hat companies such as E. Albertini & C. . Part 1 and 2 are available here.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/museo-dell’arte-del-cappello-di-ghiffa-march-14-2017-part-1.90145/

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/museo-dell’arte-del-cappello-di-ghiffa-march-14-2017-part-2.90150/#post-2235326

Click On Photos to Expand!

The next series of photos are on Manual Felt and Hat Making.

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(23) Apostle James, Patron Saint of Hatters

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Workers Societies and Unions, Diplomas, Assorted Labor Documents

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Messages
17,248
Location
Maryland
Click On Photos to Expand!

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Universal Society of Hats of M.S., 1817 Intra and Dintorni

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Assorted Antique Hatters Tools

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(22) Corporation of Hatters, Master of the Art, 1400

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(24) The hair, prepared by specialized companies (called "couperie"), was supplied ready to blow, divided into bags for quality and natural color. (Side Note: Panizza purchased ready to blown fur.)

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(25) On the skin of the animals fur, low and soft, it is mixed with the more hard and rigid (giarro), to be eliminated. Department of blowing Panizza: mixer, blow molding and sleeping boxes, already purified by giarro, ready to strike up.
 
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Location
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Click On Photos to Expand!

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(27) The basting is inspected to check, in transparency, the regularity of the hair deposit on the cone which is equivalent to the regularity of the final thickness of the hat.

(28) A particular coat weight is withdrawn from the casing and lying on the carpet of the introducer imbastitrice machine.

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(31) With the help of boiling water the rollers of the machine sodatrice damage to the roll of canvas, which with-holding basting, the pulses required to obtain the first phase of felting with the reduction in size of the felts.

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(32) The cone covered by the hair is taken from the machine and imbastitrice reversed: the basting is made to gently fall into a cloth to be wound and then centrifuged.

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(32) The cone covered by the hair is taken from the machine and imbastitrice reversed: the basting is made to gently fall into a cloth to be wound and then centrifuged.

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(33) The tacking of the surface is consistent yield starting from the delicate work of rassodatura performed by machines with oscillating plates.

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17,248
Location
Maryland
Click On Photos to Expand!

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(34) Group of "CAUSTICIZING" roller machines. The tacks are rolled into sheets and works. you either side and head. We always get a uniform felting. It follows a further control.

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(35) Scrociatura: manual operation performed at each step to the fulling. Used to prevent that remains the folding imprint on the flattened felt.

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(36) In fulling hot water and acidulated falling rain helps the penetration of the hairs in the mass felt in training.

(37) Of "fulling" Groups oscillating rollers. I felt cones are "scrociati" at each step.

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(39) Department "dyeing" to Panizza. In relation to the amount of felts available for each color bath, there were three different sizes of dyeing equipment.

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(40) After the dyeing operation the rolettinisti (workers who work on machines rolettine calls) complete the "closure" of the felt bells. In the boiling dye bath to the felt swollen and this serves to give the optimum felting.

More to come!
 

RJR

Messages
10,620
Location
Iowa
Click On Photos to Expand!

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(34) Group of "CAUSTICIZING" roller machines. The tacks are rolled into sheets and works. you either side and head. We always get a uniform felting. It follows a further control.

33164905820_1c60ac3569_h.jpg


33507659836_5dee99ec7b_h.jpg


(35) Scrociatura: manual operation performed at each step to the fulling. Used to prevent that remains the folding imprint on the flattened felt.

32734019363_ba51c6d4fd_h.jpg


(36) In fulling hot water and acidulated falling rain helps the penetration of the hairs in the mass felt in training.

(37) Of "fulling" Groups oscillating rollers. I felt cones are "scrociati" at each step.

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(39) Department "dyeing" to Panizza. In relation to the amount of felts available for each color bath, there were three different sizes of dyeing equipment.

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(40) After the dyeing operation the rolettinisti (workers who work on machines rolettine calls) complete the "closure" of the felt bells. In the boiling dye bath to the felt swollen and this serves to give the optimum felting.

More to come!
Very interesting and informative series.
 
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10,476
Location
Boston area
OMG, Steve!! I can't decide if you have saved me a trip, or made me want to go MUCH more... THANK you so kindly for all the work that went into this. Thank you, THANK YOU!!!
 

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